OCT  I  ^^  1917 


BV  3625  .C6  S48  1917 
Sheppard,  William  H.  1865- 

1927. 
Presbyterian  pioneers  in 

Conqp 


SAMUEL  NORVELL  LAPSLEY. 


# 


Of  WJ?^ 
OCT  }  ^i  1917 


^S 


^rcstjpterian  pioneers  in  Congo 


BY       y 

WILLIAM  H.  SHEPPARD 


INTRODUCTION 

BY 

RFA'.  S.  H.  CHESTER,  D.  D. 


PITHLISIIED    BY 

PRESBYTERIAN  COMMITTEE  OF  PUBLICATION 
Richmond,  Va. 


RICHMOND    PRESS,    INC., 
PRINTERS 
RIC  iMOND,  VA. 


To 

THE  SOUTHERN  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH 

Which  (oak  mc  as  a  half-clod,  harcfoot  hoy  and  trained  me  for  the 

ininislry  of  Christ,  and  to  which  I  owe  all  I 

am  or  ever  hope  to  be 

This     Book    is    Gratefully     Dedicated 

BY 

THE  AUTHOR 


Contents 


Chapter  Page 

Introduction 11 

I.  A  Ten  Thousand  Mile  Journey 15 

II.  Matadi  and  Stanley  Pool 24 

III.  The  Kwango  Expedition 42 

IV.  EuiHT  Hundred  Miles  of  Peril. 51 

V.  Beginnings  at  Lueuo G2 

VI.  Mr.  Lapsley's  Last  Journey 79 

VII.  Into  a  Forbidden  Country 87 

VIII.  At  Lukenga's  Capital 105 

IX.  CusTOM.s  in  Lukenga's  Land 119 

X.  Back  to  Luebo 1:38 

XI.  His  Kingdom  Coming  in  Congo 149 

I NDEX 1 55 


^^      ^:4 


o. 


MEDITERRANEAN^  ' 


SAHARA    OR     GREAT     DESERT 


''"'^    OF    6U.Ht'^. 

®  BULAPE 
©LUEBO 
0LUSAMBO 
®  M  UTOTO 

SOUTH 

ATLANTIC 


AFRICA 


IE  LdiAN   .' 
C^  n\g  O  ; 

IfH. 


iUuiStrations! 


1.  Samuel  Norvell  Lapsley •.  .  ..  Frontispiece 

2.  Map  of  Africa 8 

3.  Wm.  H.  Sheppard  and  Wn-i'.  Sheppard 10 

4.  Wm.  H.  Sheppard,  the  author's  father 13 

5.  Fannie  Sheppard,  tlie  author's  mother 13 

6.  Matadi  and  the  Congo  River 23 

7.  Luebo  Rapids  in  the  Lulua  River 60 

8.  Cannibal  dance  in  the  Congo 88 

9.  Congo  corn  and  mill 91 

10.  King  Lukenga's  special  medicine  men 109 

11.  An  observation  house  of  King  Lukenga 110 

12.  Prince  Maxamalinge  and  wife  (son  of  the  Luken;  ti  of  i.S',)2)  115 

13.  Congo  cloth 119 

14.  A  dwarf  (Batwa) 139 

15.  Lapsley  Memorial  Church,  Ibanje 143 

16.  Shaving  with  a  chisel 146 

17.  Lukusa,  later  called  "Dick,"  the  first  convert  in  the  Kasai 

region,  and  the  first  member  of  the  Luebo  Presbyterian 

Church;  received  April,  1895 150 

18.  Children  of  the  Pantops  Home,  Luebo 151 


WM.  H.   SHEPPARD  AND   MRS.  SHEPPARD 


Sntrobuction 


"Presbyterian  Pioneers  in  Congo"  is  an  expansion  of  auto- 
biofrra{)hical  and  historical  lectures  delivered  by  its  author,  Rev. 
Wm.  H.  8hop])ard,  D.  D.,  before  hundreds  of  our  Southern  Presby- 
terian congregations  and  before  a  number  of  ])roininent  churches  in 
the  North,  and  always  listened  to  with  profit  and  delight.  On  one 
occasion  when  called  upon  to  introduce  Dr.  8hepi)ard  in  one  of  our 
congregations,  I  used  these  words: 

"It  is  my  jirivilege  to  introduce  to  you  to-day  perhaps  the  most 
distinguished  and  certainly  the  most  widely  known  minister  of 
our  Southern  Presbyterian  Church.  For  one  thing,  he  is  the  only 
minister  on  our  roll  holding  a  fellowship  in  the  Royal  Geograi)hical 
Society  of  London.  On  behalf  of  the  Executive  Committee  of 
Foreign  Missions,  I  wish  to  say  that  there  is  no  missionary  on  our 
roll  more  beloved  or  more  highly  esteemed  by  the  Committee  under 
which  he  serves.  During  the  time  of  his  missionary  service  he  has 
been  called  to  repre.sent  us  on  many  important  occasions.  He  has 
stood  before  kings,  both  white  kings  and  black  kings,  as  our  repre- 
sentative. He  has  never  represented  us  anywhere  that  we  have  not 
had  reason  to  be  ])roud  of  the  manner  in  which  he  has  done  it.  He 
is  now  recognized  both  in  London  and  Brussels  as  one  of  the  greatest 
of  African  missionaries.  That  for  which  the  Committee  of  Foreign 
Missions  esteems  him  most  is  not  the  fact  that  he  has  achieved  this 
prominence  and  recognition,  but  that,  having  achieved  it,  he  has 
come  back  to  us  the  same  simjile-hearted,  humble,  earnest  Christian 
man  that  he  was  when  we  first  sent  him  out." 

Dr.  Sheppard  went  out  as  the  companion  of  Rev.  Samuel  N. 
Lapsley,  our  first  missionary  martyr  in  the  Congo.  The  reader 
will  be  struck  with  the  way  in  which,  in  telling  his  story  up  to  the 
time  of  Mr.  Lapsloy's  death,  he  always  kee])S  Mr.  Lai)sley  to  the 
front  and  himself  in  the  background.  At  the  same  time  he  will 
observe,  what  Mr.  Lapsley  would  be  quick  to  acknowledge  if  he 
were  hving,  that  in  many  of  the  critical  situations  that  arose  it 
was  the  ready  mother  wit  of  the  author  of  this  book  by  means  of 
which  they  were  extricated.  The  characteristic  modesty  of  Dr. 
Sheppard  should  not  be  permitted  to  deprive  him  of  the  honor  which 
justly  belongs  to  him  as  one  of  the  two  pioneers  and  founders  of 


this  Mission,  which  has  developed  into  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  successful  Missions  to  be  found  anywhere  in  the  world.  The 
story  of  its  early  days  could  scarcely  be  told  in  a  more  interesting 
manner  than  it  is  told  in  this  volume. 

On  September  15,  1912,  Dr.  W.  H.  Sheppard  was  installed 
pastor  of  the  Hancock  Street  Presbyterian  Church  in  Louisville, 
Ky.,  one  of  the  branches  of  the  work  of  which  the  Rev.  John  Little 
is  superintendent.  He  writes  of  Dr.  Sheppard  and  his  work  dur- 
ing the  past  four  and  a  half  years  as  follows: 

"He  has  given  himself  to  this  work  in  the  same  earnest  and  self- 
denying  spirit  that  characterized  his  service  in  the  Congo  and  has 
won  the  love  and  confidence  of  his  associates  and  of  the  people 
among  whom  he  labors.  He  has  not  only  done  much  to  build  up 
the  membership  and  train  it  properly,  but  he  has  also  cultivated  a 
friendly  co-operative  spirit  with  the  other  previously  hostile  de- 
nominations. After  these  years  of  association  with  him,  we  have 
come  to  feel  that  your  estimate  of  him  as  expressed  above  is  not 
exaggerated." 

S.  H.  Chester. 


WM.   H.  SliKFFARi),  THE  AUTHORS  FAI'lIKR. 
FANNIE  SIIEPPARD,  THE  AUTHORS  MOTHER. 


^refibpterian  pioneers;  in  Congo 

Chapter  I. 
A  Ten  Thousand  Mile  Journey. 

Many  requests  have  been  made  of  me  to  write  some- 
thing of  my  Hfe.  May  I  say  that,  even  from  the  be- 
ginning, it  has  been  a  very  checkered  one.  I  shall 
dwell  but  lightly  upon  my  American  life  of  twenty-five 
years;  speaking  more  in  detail  of  my  African  life  of 
twenty  years. 

I  was  born  in  Waynesboro,  Virginia,  a  small  town  on 
the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railroad.  My  parents, 
William  and  Fannie  Sheppard  (still  living)  are  good 
Presbyterians.  There  are  so  many  lovely  traits  about 
my  parents  I  am  puzzled  which  to  mention.  However, 
my  father  not  only  had  family  prayers,  but  my  dear 
mother  in  putting  me  to  bed  would  kneel  and  pray  aloud 
with  me  rather  than  have  me  say  alone,  "Now  I  lay  me 
down  to  sleep,"  etc.  Mother  would  scratch  my  back 
(which  I  enjoyed  very  much),  then  put  me  snugly  to 
bed,  and  in  a  few  minutes  I  was  asleep.  Mother  never 
turned  anyone  from  her  door  who  came  begging,  whether 
white  or  colored,  without  offering  them  such  as  she  had. 
My  father  for  many  years  was  sexton  of  the  First  Pres- 
byterian Church  in  our  town. 

The  white  people  were  always  very  kind   to  us — as    ^ 
they  were  to  all  the  colored  people. 

My  First  Impression  on  the  Subject  of  Being  a 
Missionary. — While  still  a  barefoot  boy  a  beautiful 
Christian  lady,  Mrs.  Ann  Bruce,  said  to  me  one  day. 


16  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

"William,  I  pray  for  you,  and  hope  some  day  you  may 
go  to  Africa  as  a  missionary." 

I  had  never  heard  of  Africa,  and  those  words  made  a 
lasting  impression.  God  bless  that  good  lady,  so  in- 
terested in  me  and  Africa. 

My  first  work  as  a  boy  was  carrying  water  from  a 
pump  a  block  away  morning  and  evening  for  Mrs. 
Annie  M.  Lowry.  This  was  during  the  summer  months. 
My  mother  was  then,  and  is  to-day,  bath  maid  at  the 
Warm  Springs,  Virginia,  and  my  father  is  still  in  the 
barber  business.  My  sister  Eva,  older  than  I,  had 
gone  to  Staunton,  twelve  miles  from  Waynesboro,  to 
live  with  an  aunt.  With  permission  from  my  parents 
I  soon  joined  her.  After  being  there  for  some  months, 
I  heard  of  a  family  who  wanted  to  hire  a  boy  to  look 
after  a  horse.  I  applied  and  secured  the  position,  spend- 
ing two  years  with  Dr.  S.  H.  Henkel  (the  dentist). 
In  a  back  room  of  the  doctor's  office  was  a  box  filled 
with  teeth.  It  puzzled  me  much  to  think  how  in  the 
world  the  people  on  resurrection  day  were  to  get  their 
own  teeth  back.  I  loved  my  new  home,  for  Dr.  Henkel 
and  his  wife  were  so  kind  to  me.  They  spent  much 
time  in  instructing  me  in  my  books  at  night. 

My  next  work  was  waiting  in  the  McCurdy  House 
at  Clifton  Forge,  Va.  Later  I  was  sent  to  Covington, 
Va.,  also  a  McCurdy  House,  as  head  waiter.  This  was 
a  promotion,  though  there  were  only  two  of  us  as  waiters 
in  the  house.  While  at  Covington  I  heard  of  the  Hamp- 
ton Normal  and  Industrial  Institute.  I  secured  some 
literature  from  there  and  read  carefully  every  word. 
I  saved  my  money,  and  in  1880  said  good-bye  to  my 
parents  and  was  off  for  school.  I  had  made  no  formal 
application,  but  good  General  Armstrong,  President  of 
the    Institute,    received    me   kindly.     The   first   year   I 


A    TEN    THOUSAND    MILE    JOURNEY  17 

worked  on  the  farm,  aiul  later  worked  in  the  bakery, 
going  to  school  at  night.  I  loved  to  swim  and  fish,  and 
every  advantage  was  afforded  me.  The  Hampton 
creek  was  filled  with  fish,  ousters  and  crabs,  and  the 
broad  ocean  beyond  was  at  my  disposal. 

General  Armstrong  was  my  ideal  of  manhood:  his  y 
erect  carriage,  deep,  penetrating  e>'es,  pleasant  smiles 
and  kindly  disposition  drew  all  students  to  him.  He 
was  a  great,  tender-hearted  father  to  us  all,  and  the 
teachers  were  also  deeply  interested  in  the  welfare  of 
the  students. 

Dr.  H.  B.  Frissell,  who  was  chaplain  of  the  Institute, 
was  also  a  loving,  congenial  friend  to  us  all.  One 
Sabbath  afternoon  he  asked  me  to  accompany  him  and 
some  of  the  teachers  to  establish  a  mission  Sunday- 
school  at  Slabtown,  a  small  village  of  poor  colored 
people  about  a  mile  from  the  school.  I  went  with  him 
gladly  and  carried  some  of  the  Bibles  and  h}mn  books. 
I  felt  from  that  afternoon  that  my  future  work  was  to 
carr>-  the  gospel  to  the  poor,  destitute  and  forgotten 
people.  Dr.  Frissell,  God  bless  him,  w£is  one  of  the 
humblest  and  most  consecrated  Christian  gentlemen 
I  ever  knew. 

From  Hampton  I  returned  to  my  parents'  home  in 
Waynesboro.  Then  I  applied  to  our  Church  to  be 
taken  i  nder  the  care  of  the  Presb>  ter>-,  and  to  lie  sent 
to  the  Theological  Institute  at  Tuscaloosa,  Ala. 

Our  dear  good  pastor.  Rev.  Frank  McCutchan,  who 
was  deeply  interested  in  me,  wrote  Dr.  Stillman,  the 
fcnmder  and  President  of  the  Institute,  a  letter  con- 
cerning me.  A  reply  soon  came  that  I  would  be  ac- 
cepted. I  humbly  bowed  my  head  in  grateful  thanks 
to  Him  who  has  said,  "Whatsoever  yc  shall  ask  in  pra>-er,  ^ 
believing,  ye  shall  receive." 


18  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

At  Tuscaloosa  Theological  Institute. — A  ques- 
tion asked  me  in  my  examination  by  both  the  Presby- 
tery in  Waynesboro,  Va.,  and  by  the  faculty  of  the 
Tuscaloosa  Institute  was:  "If  you  are  called  upon  to 
go  to  Africa  as  a  missionary,  would  you  be  willing  to 
go?"  I  promptly  answered,  "I  would  go,  and  with 
pleasure." 

During  my  three  years  in  the  Institute  I  did  mis- 
sionary work  around  the  town,  visiting  and  praying 
with  the  sick — a  work  which  I  enjoyed  so  much. 
^  Dr.  Stillman  longed  to  do  something  for  the  uplift  of 
the  colored  ministry.  The  white  citizens  co-operated 
heartily  with  him  in  this  mission  of  love.  Some  of  our 
most  prominent  white  ladies  taught  in  the  colored  Sun- 
day-school organized  by  the  Church. 

From  Tuscaloosa  I  was  called  to  take  charge  of  a 
church  in  Montgomery,  Ala.  Three  years  were  spent 
here  very  profitably,  as  I  believe. 
I  I  was  called  to  Atlanta,  Ga.,  and  was  ordained  pastor 
of  the  Harrison  Street  Presbyterian  Church  in  1887. 
For  a  number  of  years  I  applied  to  our  Foreign  Mission 
Board,  whose  headquarters  were  then  in  Baltimore. 
My  appeals  met  with  no  success  then,  but  I  was  not  dis- 
couraged. I  made  a  trip  to  our  Foreign  Mission  office 
and  laid  my  plans  before  our  secretary.  Dr.  M.  H. 
Houston. 

In  1890  the  joyful  tidings  came  that  Rev.  S.  N. 
Lapsley,  a  young  white  man  of  Anniston,  Ala.,  and  I 
had  been  appointed  as  missionaries  of  the  Southern 
Presbyterian  Church  to  Africa,  and  that  we  were  to 
proceed  to  the  Congo  Independent  State,'  West  Central 
Africa,  as  soon  as  we  could  prepare  for  the  journey. 
My  heart  had  never  been  made  so  happy.  Rev.  Mr. 
Lapsley  and  I  met  the  Executive  Committee  in  Nash- 


A    TEN    THOUSAND    MILE   JOURNEY  19 

ville,  Tenn.  Many  questions  were  eisked  us  about  the 
new  country  to  which  we  were  going.  Mr.  Lapsley 
was  intelHgent  on  many  of  the  questions  asked;  I  knew 
a  few  things  which  I  had  learned  from  geography,  but 
it  was  all  very  vague.  We  decided  to  meet  in  New  York 
and  sail  from  that  port  to  England. 

Setting  Sail  for  England.— In  1890,  as  the 
Adriatic  slowly  steamed  out  from  the  pier  in  New 
York  City,  a  kind  lady  called  out  as  she  waved,  "Shep- 
pard,  take  care  of  Sam."  It  was  Mrs.  Lapsley,  wife  of 
Judge  James  W.  Lapsley,  of  Alabama.  This  good 
lady  had  given  her  prayers  and  money  to  the  Master  v^ 
for  the  cause  of  Foreign  Missions  and  now  she  gave  of 
her  own  flesh  and  blood  her  son,  and  waved  him  a  sad 
farewell. 

Judge  Lapsley  and  his  wife  returned  to  their  home  in 
Alabama — that  home  had  changed,  there  was  a  vacant 
chair  and  a  voice  that  was  not  heard.  Our  faces  were 
turned  now  toward  Africa,  next  to  the  largest  continent 
of  the  world,  the  richest,  the  darkest,  and  the  most 
neglected. 

It  is  sad  to  leave  home,  friends  and  native  land  and 
seek  a  home  among  strangers,  yet  it  was  for  the  Master's  «^^ 
sake. 

"Native  land,  we  love  thee; 
All  thy  scenes,  we  love  them  well; 
Home,  and  friends  which  smile  around  us. 
Can  we  leave  thee?     Can  we  say  farewell? 
Far  in  heathen  lands  to  dwell? 

"Yes,  we  hasten  from  thee  gladly 
To  the  strangers,  let  us  tell 
How  He  died,  the  Blessed  Saviour, 
To  redeem  a  world  from  hell — 
Native  land,  Farewell,  farewell!" 


20  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

The  Adriatic  soon  put  a  vast  space  between  us  and 
our  home  people  hke  a  blank  page  in  existence. 

During  the  voyage  of  eleven  days  which  brought 
us  to  Liverpool,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  whales, 
porpoises,  and  flying  fish.  From  Liverpool  we  went  by 
rail  to  London,  where  we  received  the  greatest  hos- 
pitality possible  at  "Harlcy  House"  from  Dr.  G rattan 
Guinness  and  family.  They  spared  no  pains  in  helping 
us  in  every  way  they  could.  We  hadn't  words  to  ex- 
press our  gratitude  to  them.  This  whole  family  was 
imbued  with  the  missionary  spirit. 

Securing  Our  African  Supplies. — After  exchanging 
most  of  our  American  money  for  cowrie  shells,  Ijeads, 
salt  and  brass  wire — these  were  our  future  currency — 
we  purchased  flour,  sugar,  butter  and  lard;  also  thin 
linen  clothing  and  helmets  for  the  sun. 

While  our  outfit  and  supplies  were  being  gotten  to- 
gether, we  made  ourselves  useful  in  accepting  invita- 
tions to  speak  and  in  visiting  places  of  interest.  Some 
of  the  places  where  we  spoke  were  Hyde  Park,  Burger 
Hall,  East  London  Tabernacle,  Hary  House,  Edin- 
bourgh  Castle,  Dr.  Barmandos  Orphanage,  and  White 
Chapel.  We  visited  the  Bank  of  England,  Crystal 
Palace,  Tower  of  London,  Houses  of  Parliament,  West- 
minster Abbey,  Royal  Exchange,  British  Museum,  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral,  and  Livingstone's  grave.  The  sight- 
seeing helped  in  our  business  affairs  and  we  were  made 
exceedingly  comfortable  in  a  strange  land  and  city  by 
Mr.  Robert  Whyte,  of  51  King  Henry's  Road,  a  splendid 
Christian  gentleman. 

From  London  to  Rotterdam. — At  the  Liverpool 
Street  Railroad  station  a  number  of  friends  had  gath- 
ered. They  sang  gospel  hymns  as  our  train  pulled  out 
for   Harwich.     The    train   was   soon   well    under   way, 


A  TEN  THOUSAND  MILE  JOURNEY         21 

speeding  along  the  ringing  rails  at  a  mile  a  minute  till 
we  reached  Harwich.  Here  we  went  aboard  a  steamer, 
which  puffed  and  ploughed  through  the  heavy  sea  all 
night  and  landed  us  in  Rotterdam,  Holland,  early  next 
morning.  Were  we  sea  sick?  Well,  we  lost  in  this 
single  night  all  the  flesh  which  we  had  gained  in  our  long 
stay  in  England.  There  is  no  sickness,  to  me,  like  sea- 
sickness.    It  is  a  combination  of  all  maladies. 

Toward  evening  we  boarded  the  Afrikaan,  a  small 
Dutch  trading  ship,  bound  for  the  Congo.  The  other 
passengers  were  English  and  Swedish  missionaries  and 
Dutch  traders.  We  had  a  good  supply  of  a  cure  for 
sea-sickness,  but  when  we  were  well  out  where  the  wind 
blew  we  found  that  meals  and  medicine  forsook  us. 

Arrival  at  Banana— "Sharks  Point."— After  near- 
ly three  weeks  sailing  we  sighted  "Sharks  Point"  on  the 
great  Congo  river. 

We  disembarked  here,  our  first  stop  in  the  Dark 
Continent.  The  beach  was  thronged  with  half-clad 
natives,  called  Luongas.  We  found  this  point  well 
named,  for  the  river  swarmed  with  man-eating  sharks. 

Our  First  Excitement.  While  bathing  in  the  surf 
one  afternoon,  Mr.  Lapsley  called  in  a  loud,  distressing 
voice  as  he  rushed  out  on  the  beach  and  lay  speechless 
for  a  moment.  Coming  near  him  he  exclaimed,  "I  was 
nearly  taken  by  a  shark." 

The  Congo  river  at  this  point  by  actual  measurement 
is  seven  miles  wide.  If  you  include  the  sand  banks, 
small  streams  and  pools,  it  is  seventeen  miles  wide, 
and  the  dark,  tea-colored  water  can  l)e  discerned  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  out  at  sea.  There  are  thousands 
of  banana  trees  growing  on  the  narrow  peninsula. 

Our  first  dinner  on  shore  at  a  trading  post  was  en- 
josed    vers-    much.      We    ;i(c    liananas    until    we    were 


22  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

embarrassed.  When  we  went  out  on  the  shady  side 
of  the  house  we  beckoned  to  the  native  who  had  been 
waiting  on  the  table  and  made  him  understand  that  we 
were  from  a  country  where  bananas  were  scarce,  and 
that  we  wanted  him  to  bring  us  a  few  more,  if  it  was 
convenient  to  him.  The  fellow  smiled  and  bowed, 
showing  that  he  understood  us,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
he  came  back  with  as  many  bananas  as  he  could  carry. 

A  Start  for  Boma. — Our  next  stop  was  at  Boma, 
the  capital  of  the  Congo  Free  State.  The  name  means 
"Python."  The  principal  part  of  the  town  is  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill.  Near  the  river  it  is  swampy  and  in  the 
marshes  the  alligator  and  boa-constrictor  make  their 
home. 

A  Joke  on  Us. — On  board  ship  we  usually  had  for 
dinner  soup,  roast  beef,  vegetables  and  dessert.  At 
Boma  we  went  into  a  Portuguese  hotel  to  take  dinner. 
Being  very  hungry,  we  had  soup  twice,  a  good  helping 
of  fish  followed,  then  came  beef  and  vegetables.  Think- 
ing this  was  all,  we  ate  like  wild  men.  Our  plates  were 
taken  away  and  soon  a  new  course  was  brought  in.  We 
refused.  (Had  to.)  Pretty  soon  another  course.  Others 
at  the  table  who  had  eaten  more  moderately  and  knew 
there  were  six  more  courses  smiled  at  us  every  time  fresh 
plates  were  brought.  And  there  we  sat,  certainly  an 
hour,  and  very  uncomfortable,  until  dessert  was  served. 
There  were  perhaps  about  seventy  foreigners  in  Boma 
— Belgians,  Portuguese  and  English. 

Steaming  for  Matadi. — After  a  short  stay  in  Boma 
we  continued  on  our  river  journey  to  Matadi,  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  miles  from  the  sea.  Matadi  is  a  native 
name,  meaning  stones. 

We  mentioned  to  a  missionary  that  the  natives  were 
very  active  and  swift.     The  missionary  explained  that 


A    TJ2N    THOUSAND    MILE    JOURNEY 


23 


if  we  had  those  stones  under  our  bare  feet  we  would 
move,  too.  The  sun  seems  to  shine  nowhere  so  hot  as 
down  upon  these  slick  stones.  We  found  about  fifteen 
foreigners  here,  most  of  them  Belgians  and  Dutch. 
They  were  very  yellow  from  the  effects  of  the  sun  and 
fever. 


MATADI   AND  THE  CONGO  RIVER. 


24  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 


Chapter  II. 
Matadi  and  Stanley  Pool. 

Introduction  to  an  African  Fever — In  speaking  of 
fever,  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  three  forms  of 
African  fever;  remittent,  intermittent,  and  biHous  her- 
maturic.  They  are  not  contagious,  but  a  mosquito 
which  has  bitten  an  infected  person  inoculates  that 
poison  into  your  blood  and  causes  the  fever. 

Mr.  Lapsley  and  I  both  had  fever  at  the  same  time 
with  about  the  game  rise  of  temperature  and  duration. 
The  kind  missionaries  of  the  Baptist  Mission,  Messrs. 
Law  son  Forfeitt,  and  S.  C.  Graham,  gave  us  five  grains 
of  calomel  and  five  grains  of  jalap  each,  and  told  us  to 
go  to  bed.  We  were  covered  with  six  blankets,  hot  tea, 
cup  after  cup,  followed  in  quick  succession,  and  soon  we 
were  like  t  ao  ducks  in  a  puddle  of  water.  We  had  never 
perspired  so  in  all  our  days.  The  Missionaries  were  kept 
busy  from  room  to  room  keeping  the  blankets  on  us. 
On  a  day  when  it  was  99  in  the  shade  and  not  possible 
to  register  in  the  sun,  we  were  under  six  blankets,  and 
on  the  outside  of  all  that  calomel,  jalap  tea,  and  fifty 
grains  of  quinine.  It  was  enough  to  kill  the  fever,  which 
it  did  effectually. 

Our  First  Hunt. — We  were  anxious  to  try  our  guns, 
and  in  company  with  two  natives,  we  went  down  the 
river  about  a  mile,  shot  an  enormous  eagle,  a  black 
monkey  and  a  water  snake  seven  feet  long.  The  na- 
tives w  ere  delighted  with  the  eagle  and  the  monkey  for 
their  supper  but  threw  the  snake  away.     The  natives 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  25 

told  US  that  there  were  plenty  of  buffalo  about  two  miles 
away  in  the  deep  grass,  but  we  made  ourselves  con- 
tented with  the  game  we  had  and  returned  to  the  mis- 
sion station. 

In  Hell's  Cauldron. — The  waters  of  the  great  Congo 
river  and  its  hundreds  of  tributaries,  as  with  the  rush  of 
a  mighty  mill  race,  make  an  acute  turn  just  here,  and 
form  a  deep,  dashing,  dangerous  whirl-pool.  Only  the 
strongest  ocean  steamers  can  breast  the  current,  with 
safety.  The  people  told  us  of  a  Portuguese  steamer 
which  was  SAvallowed  up  trying  to  make  her  way  through 
the  pool. 

The  moaning  of  the  seething  sea-serpent,  can  be 
heard  a  mile  away.  Being  ignorant  of  its  great  drawing 
power,  we  tried  to  cross  the  river,  three  hundred  yards 
above.  In  spite  of  our  desperate  efforts  to  reach  the 
north  bank  we  were  drawn  in  as  a  floating  stick.  We 
spun  round  and  roiuid  like  a  top,  the  boat  all  the  time  at 
an  angle  of  about  forty  degrees,  till  we  were  dizzy. 
Natives  on  shore  informed  the  other  missionaries  of  our 
perilous  predicament.  We  thought  of  our  watery  graves 
and  all  of  our  past  life  flashed  before  us.  "Oh'  save  us 
Master,  or  we  perish,"  we  prayed.  In  a  moment,  as  if 
miraculously,  the  seething  cauldron  ceased  for  a  second, 
and  by  an  awful  struggle  for  life,  we  rowed  out  and 
landed,  to  the  delight  of  the  excited  crowd. 

Mounds  of  Triumphant  Martyrs. — Down  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hill  near  the  river  bank  shaded  by  ever- 
greens is  the  sacred  spot.  Faithful  missionaries  of  Jesus 
are  sleeping  there. 

In  Great  Britain,  Sw^eden,  and  America  they  were  told 
that  the  climate  was  deadly;  that  they  would  be  pelted 
by  the  rains,  scorched  by  the  sun,  and  murdered  by  the 
natives.     Yet  in  full  knowledge  of  these  conditions  and 


26  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

with  hearts  imbued  with  the  vSpirit  of  God  they  went 
forth  on  their  mission  of  love.  A  kiss  upon  the  cheek, 
a  mingHng  of  tears,  a  wave  of  the  handkerchief  and  they 
were  off  on  their  errand  for  their  King. 

Emaciated  by  deadly  fevers,  pelted  by  tropical  storms, 
stung  by  the  tsetse  flies  fresh  from  the  lazarette  of 
misery,  fatigued  and  foot  sore  from  many  a  tramp, 
they  have  laid  themselves  down  in  this  pleasant  dale 
"Till  He  comes." 

Our  Tramp  to  Stanley  Pool. — Africa  is  divided  into 
the  following  races:  the  Vardens  occupying  the  North, 
the  Fulah  in  the  Soudan,  the  Bantu  in  Central  Africa, 
the  Hottentot  and  the  Kaffirs  in  the  South.  These 
races  are  divided  into  683  tribes,  and  as  they  differ  in 
name  so  they  differ  in  habits,  customs  and  conditions. 

The  navigable  part  of  the  Congo  river  from  the  At- 
lantic ocean  ends  here  under  the  Livingstone  Cataracts, 
but  above  the  250  miles  of  succession  of  cataracts  we 
are  told  that  the  great  Congo  is  navigable  for  a  thousand 
miles.  There  are  no  wagons,  horses,  camels  or  oxen 
in  this  region.  The  Ba-Congo  native  is  the  burden 
bearer.  There  are  40,000  on  the  caravan  road  of  250 
miles  between  Matadi  and  Stanley  Pool.  These  men 
go  up  bearing  loads  of  beads,  brass  wire,  bales  of  cloth, 
cowrie  shells  and  European  provisions  of  all  kinds.  The 
carriers  on  their  return  journey  to  Matadi  bring  ivory, 
rubber,  cam  wood  and  gum  copal.  The  carrying  capacity 
of  each  native's  head  is  sixty-five  pounds. 

On  the  27th  of  June,  1890,  we  secured  twenty-five 
of  these  burden-bearers  to  carry  our  loads  of  tent,  beds, 
bedding,  trunks,  chairs,  guns,  corned  beef,  hard  tack, 
lard,  salt,  tea,  coffee  and  sugar.  We  wrote  carefully 
in  our  memorandums  the  name  and  town  of  each  man, 
for  we  were  told  that  very  often  a  carrier  hearing  of  the 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  27 

death  of  some  relative  will  leave  the  caravan  without 
notifying  you,  and  the  period  of  mourning  often  lasts 
six  months. 

It  has  been  known  that  sometimes  traders  coming 
into  camp  in  the  evening  would  find  that  their  food, 
cooking  utensils,  tent  or  something  very  necessary  was 
five  or  six  miles  off  in  some  other  village.  Having  the 
name  and  town  of  your  missing  man,  you  can  send  run- 
ners to  bring  back  your  needed  load. 

Saying  good-bye  to  the  kind  missionaries,  we  started 
out  at  the  rear  of  our  Indian  filing  caravan  on  a  trail 
about  twelve  inches  broad  and  running  as  crooked  as  a 
snake  down  and  up  hill,  over  rough  stones,  and  through 
high  grass.  After  three  hours  hard  marching  we  came 
to  our  first  river,  the  Mpozo.  The  river  was  not  very 
deep  or  broad,  but  it  was  clear  and  swift  and  one  solid 
bed  of  boulders.  A  few  calls  from  our  head  man  brought 
the  boatman  from  his  shack,  and  he  soon  had  us  ferried 
across  in  a  native  canoe. 

Our  First  Congo  Tramp. — By  the  help  of  the  natives 
we  soon  had  our  tent  stretched,  the  ground  sheet  spread 
inside,  and  the  couches  made  up.  One  of  the  natives 
brought  us  an  armful  of  wood  and  the  camp  fire  was 
started.  We  asked  the  head  man  if  any  of  the  caravan 
knew  how  to  cook,  and  the  response  was,  "They  all 
know  how  to  cook."  We  were  told  that  all  men  be- 
longing to  the  caravan  learned  to  cook.  A  cook  de- 
mands extra  pay  and  also  gets  fat  "en  route"  by  tasting 
the  food. 

We  had  for  our  first  supper  crackers,  jam,  tea  and 
river  water. 

Mountain  Climbing. — We  were  up  at  five  o'clock, 
had  breakfast,  an  exact  duplicate  of  our  supper,  and 
began  to  climb  over  stones,  around  cliffs,  following  the 


28  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

narrow  trail  for  three  hours  till  we  reached  the  top, 
footsore  and  hungry. 

Near  the  top  of  this  mountain  there  is  a  mission  of  the 
American  Baptist  Union,  which  bears  the  name  of  the 
mountain,  Mpalabala.  We  were  received  most  cor- 
dially by  all  the  missionaries  and  were  soon  rested  on  a 
cool  veranda.  We  were  shown  around  the  Mission 
compound,  the  chapel,  the  school,  the  dispensary,  and 
the  native  town  which  was  near  by.  We  also  heard 
some  good  singing  in  the  native  tongue. 

In  the  afternoon  we  started  our  downward  ttail, 
slipping  and  sliding  over  sharp  rocks  and  slippery 
boulders,  till  we  reached  a  creek  at  the  bottom.  Having 
learned  how,  we  had  less  trouble  getting  up  the  tent 
here  than  we  had  at  the  Mpozo.  We  had  for  our  supper 
corned  beef,  crackers,  tea  and  creek  water. 

The  missionaries  told  us  to  begin  our  marches  about 
five  o'clock  A.  M.  and  rest  in  some  shady  place  by  a 
stream  from  eleven  until  four,  march  again  for  two  hours, 
and  camp,  thus  making  eight  hours  a  day,  or  about 
twenty-five  miles  in  the  eight  hours. 

Where  Stanley  Passed. — The  country  just  this  side 
of  the  mountain  is  not  so  hilly  or  rocky  as  that  near 
Matadi.  We  found  a  road  had  been  made  by  Mr. 
Stanley  and  saw  some  of  Stanley's  heavy  iron  wagon 
wheels  lying  by  the  roadside;  also  sun-bleached  skeletons 
of  native  carriers  here  and  there  who  by  sickness,  hunger 
or  fatigue,  had  laid  themselves  down  to  die,  without 
fellow  or  friend. 

A  Warning  to  Others. — We  passed  ati  old  market 
place  on  the  plain  and  near  by  a  palm  tree  were  two  old 
flint-lock  muskets  driven  into  the  ground,  muzzle  first. 
It  was  explained  to  us  that  for  murder  two  men  had  been 
tried,    condemned,    and    hung    in    the    public    market. 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  29 

Their  bodies  had  been  eaten  by  leopards  and  jackals 
and  their  guns  driven  into  the  ground  as  a  visible  warn- 
ing to  others. 

Sick  and  Helpless  and  Ready  to  Die. — In  passing 
a  cluster  of  bushes  we  heard  groans  of  a  native,  and  on 
making  our  way  into  the  thicket  found  a  man  dying  of 
smallpox.  We  longed  to  help  him,  but  there  was  noth- 
ing we  could  do,  and  our  head  man  hurried  us  away, 
fearing  we  ourselves  might  catch  the  disease. 

Nearing  the  A.  B.  M.  U. — The  fifth  day  of  our 
tramp  brought  us  to  M'Banza  Manteka,  a  mission  sta- 
tion of  the  American  Baptist  Union.  How  glad  we 
were  to  see  foreigners  again.  We  were  received  kindly 
by  the  missionaries,  who  asked  for  American  news  and 
told  us  many  profitable  things  about  Congo,  its  customs, 
climate,  etc.,  and  how  they  had  with  great  difficulty 
and  danger  built  the  station;  how  they  learned  the  native 
language,  translated  hymns  and  the  Scriptures;  of  their 
elephant  hunts  and  leopard  scares;  and  how  a  big 
leopard  with  a  hog  in  his  mouth  had  jumped  a  six-foot 
pen.  They  talked  of  trials  and  triumphs  till  the  night 
was  far  spent. 

In  the  morning  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  a  neat, 
large  galvanized  iron  church.  This  Iniilding  was  given 
by  Dr.  Gordon's  Church  of  Boston,  Mass.,  and  shipped 
to  Africa  in  sections.  The  Christians  of  the  neighbor- 
hood banded  themselves  together  en  masse,  walked  five 
days'  journey  to  Ma  tad  i,  and  on  their  heads  and  shoul- 
ders through  the  rocky  trail  brought  237  loads,  equal  to 
six  tons,  which  would  have  cost  the  mission  $1,000.00. 
The  Christian  women  who  could  not  go  paid  .men  to 
bring  up  their  part.  Some  (jf  the  women  who  had  but 
little  money  gathered  their  garden  stuff,  accompanied 
the  men,  feeding  and  cheering  them  on  their  way. 


30  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

The  church  here  has  400  Christian  men  and  women, 
and  we  are  told  that  they  preach  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
beautifully  in  their  lives. 

We  saw  the  collection  baskets,  one  at  the  entrance  of 
each  door.  They  were  the  size  of  big  clothes  baskets. 
The  missionaries  told  us  that  every  Sunday  these 
baskets  are  filled  by  the  Christians  with  strings  of  blue 
beads,  their  money. 

Our  First  Congo  Service. — The  missionaries  had 
supplied  us  with  a  "Ki-Kongo"  Testament  and  a  native 
hymn  book.  We  pitched  our  tent  near  a  beautiful 
cool  stream.  At  nine  o'clock  the  dish  pan  (bell)  was 
beaten  and  the  caravan  assembled  for  divine  service. 
Dr.  Lapsley  read  Luke  2 :1,  2  and  we  sang  "We're  March- 
ing to  Zion."  One  of  our  carriers  offered  prayer,  then 
Mr.  Lapsley  and  I  followed  in  prayer  in  English.  The 
natives  sang  splendidly  and  heartily. 

Off  for  Lukunga. — At  daybreak  Monday  morning 
we  had  finished  our  breakfast  by  candle  light  and  with 
staff  in  hand  we  marched  northeast  for  Lukunga. 

In  two  days  we  sighted  the  Mission  Compound. 
Word  had  reached  the  missionaries  (A.  B.  M.  U.)  that 
foreigners  were  approaching,  and  they  came  out  to  meet 
and  greet  us.  We  were  soon  hurried  into  their  cool 
and  comfortable  mud  houses.  Our  faithful  cook  was 
dismissed,  for  we  were  to  take  our  meals  with  the  mis- 
sionaries. 

Scorpions  and  Spiders. — Mr.  Hoste,  who  is  at  the 
head  of  this  station,  came  into  our  room  and  mentioned 
that  the  numerous  spiders,  half  the  size  of  your  hand, 
on  the  \Yalls  were  harmless.  "But,"  said  he  as  he  raised 
his  hand  and  pointed  to  a  hole  over  the  door,  "there  is 
a  nest  of  scorpions;  you  must  be  careful  in  moving  in 
and  out,  for  they  will  spring  upon  you." 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  31 

Well,  you  ought  to  have  seen  us  dodging  in  and  out 
that  door.  After  supper,  not  discrediting  the  veracity 
of  the  gentleman,  we  set  to  work,  and  for  an  hour  we 
spoiled  the  walls  by  smashing  spiders  with  slippers. 

A  Big  Boa. — The  next  morning  the  mission  station 
was  excited  over  the  loss  of  their  only  donkey.  The 
donkey  had  been  feeding  in  the  field  and  a  boa-con- 
strictor had  captured  him,  squeezed  him  into  pulp, 
dragged  him  a  hundred  yards  down  to  the  river  bank, 
and  was  preparing  to  swallow  him.  The  missionaries, 
all  with  guns,  took  aim  and  fired,  killing  the  twenty-five- 
foot  boa-constrictor.  The  boa  was  turned  over  to  the 
natives  and  they  had  a  great  feast.  The  missionaries 
told  us  many  tales  about  how  the  boa-constrictor  would 
come  l)y  night  and  steal  away  their  goats,  hogs  and  dogs. 

Miniature  Fleas. — The  sand  around  Lukunga  is  a 
hot-bed  for  miniature  fleas,  or  "jiggers."  The  second 
day  of  our  stay  at  Lukunga  our  feet  had  swollen  and 
itched  terribly,  and  on  examination  we  found  that  these 
"jiggers"  had  entered  under  our  toe  nails  and  had 
grown  to  the  size  of  a  pea.  A  native  was  called  and  with 
a  small  sharpened  stick  they  were  cut  out.  We  saw 
natives  with  toes  and  fingers  eaten  entirely  off  by  these 
pests.  Mr.  Hoste  told  us  to  keep  our  toes  well  greased 
with  palm  oil.  We  followed  his  instructions,  but  grease 
with  sand  and  sun  made  our  socks  rather  "heavy." 

A  Live  Church. — The  native  church  here  is  very 
strong  spiritually.  The  church  bell,  a  real  big  brass 
bell,  begins  to  ring  at  8  A.  M.  and  continues  for  an  hour. 
The  natives  in  the  neighborhood  come  teeming  by  every 
trail,  take  their  seats  quietly,  and  listen  attentively  to 
the  preaching  of  God's  word.  No  excitement,  no  shout- 
ing, but  an  intelligent  interest  shown  by  looking  and 
listening  from  start  to  finish. 


32  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

In  the  evening  you  can  hear  from  every  quarter  our 
hymns  sung  by  the  natives  in  their  language.  They 
are  having  their  family  devotions  before  retiring. 

We  are  told  that  many  evangelists  had  been  educated 
on  the  spot  and  sent  out  into  the  country  to  tell  their 
brothers  the  stor>-  of  Jesus  and  his  love. 

Off  for  Stanley  Pool, — After  a  very  pleasant  and 
profitable  stay  at  Lukunga  we  continued  our  march 
toward  Stanley  Pool.  Our  cook  smiled — he  was  re- 
instated. 

"Crocks"  in  the  N'Kissy. — Our  second  day's  march 
brought  us  to  a  large  river.  Our  loads  and  men  were 
ferried  over  in  canoes.  Mr.  Lapsley  and  I  decided  to 
swim  it,  and  so  we  jumped  in  and  struck  out  for  the 
opposite  shore.  On  landing  we  were  told  by  a  native 
watchman  that  we  had  done  a  very  daring  thing.  He 
explained  with  much  excitement  and  many  gestures 
that  the  river  was  filled  with  crocodiles,  and  that  he  did 
not  expect  to  see  us  land  alive  on  his  side.  We  camped 
on  the  top  of  the  hill  overlooking  N'Kissy  and  the  wild, 
rushing  Congo  Rapids.  It  was  in  one  of  these  whirl- 
pools that  young  Pocock,  Stanley's  last  survivor, 
perished. 

A  Native  Market. — The  next  day  we  were  up  and  off 
at  an  early  hour.  After  about  ten  hours'  march  we  saw 
in  the  distance  a  great  number  of  people  and  heard  their 
loud  talking.  We  were  told  that  it  was  a  native  market. 
We  had  already  noticed  that  our  men  had  an  extra  move 
on  them.  We  arrived  in  the  market  and  took  shelter 
under  a  large  tree.  Our  men  soon  put  down  their  loads 
and  joined  in  the  noisy  crowd.  In  a  little  while  we  lost 
sight  of  our  carriers,  for  all  the  market  men  looked  alike 
to  us. 

A  number  of  women  had  their  faces,  hair  and  loin 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  33 

cloths  smeared  over  with  a  black  preparation  which 
trickled  all  down  their  legs.  On  inquiry  we  were  told 
that  it  was  a  tar  made  from  burned  peanuts,  palm  oil 
and  palm  nuts.  It  was  their  mode  of  mourning  for  the 
deceased.  The  babies  which  were  tied  to  their  backs 
and  exposed  to  the  hot  sun  were  well  tarred  also.  There 
were  hogs,  dogs,  ducks,  goats,  sheep,  rats,  bats,  chickens 
and  caterpillars  in  numbers  and  abundance.  Monkeys, 
parrots,  peanuts,  beans,  fresh  and  dried,  fish,  pineapples, 
bananas,  clay  pots  and  pipes  for  sale.  We  saw  piles  of 
native  bread  made  from  the  roots  of  manioc.  This 
bread  was  round  like  a  man's  head,  wrapped  in  greased 
banana  leaves,  weighing  about  five  pounds.  In  appear- 
ance and  eating  it  is  like  putty. 

It  was  impossible  to  get  our  carriers  together,  and  so 
we  were  compelled  to  camp  at  the  market  place  for  the 
night,  and  such  eating!  They  had  turned  the  whole 
plateau  into  a  cooking  plant.  Our  men  being  well 
supplied  with  food  made  splendid  marches  the  last  two 
days. 

Arriving  at  Stanley  Pool. — A  broad  road  led  to  the 
entrance  of  the  settlement.  The  missionaries  being 
notified  came  on  the  way  and  welcomed  us  to  their 
African  homes. 

We  met  Dr.  Aaron  Sims  and  Mr.  Reign,  of  the  Ameri- 
can Baptist  Union;  Rev.  Roger  and  Rev.  Gordon,  of 
the  English  Baptist  Missionary  Society;  Rev.  and  Mrs. 
McKittrick,  of  the  Congo  Bololo  Mission;  and  Dr. 
Harrison,  of  the  American  Methodist  Mission. 

The  Pool. — As  we  sat  in  the  mission  house  there 
was  a  beautiful  expanse  of  water  before  us  (Stanley 
Pool),  twenty-five  miles  long  and  about  nine  miles 
broad,  dotted  here  and  there  with  large,  grassy  islands. 

Within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  mission  station  was 


34  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

also  a  native  village,  the  Bateke  people,  of  a  thousand 
inhabitants.  The  Bateke  is  a  tribe  of  the  Bantu  race, 
tall,  slight,  and  apparently  not  very  strong.  Their 
chief  occupation  is  trading.  The  up-river  people,  who 
are  great  elephant  hunters,  come  in  big  canoes  to  Stanley 
Pool  with  ivory,  gum,  copal  and  cam  wood.  They  sell 
to  the  Bateke  people,  and  in  turn  the  Bateke  traded  to 
foreigners  living  near  the  coast. 

The  frame  work  of  their  houses  is  made  of  split  bamboo 
with  long  dried  grass  tied  on  for  roof  and  walls.  They 
are  about  fifteen  feet  long  and  seven  feet  broad,  oval 
shaped,  and  entered  by  a  sliding  door  three  feet  high. 

Visiting  through  the  village,  we  were  introduced  to 
Chief  N'Galiama,  who  entertained  us  by  showing  some 
of  his  presents  given  him  by  foreigners — china  plates, 
cups,  knives,  spoons,  hats,  caps,  beads,  etc.  He  showed 
also  a  white  handkerchief  with  W.  M.  Stanley's  name 
on  it.  We  asked  the  old  chief  to  give  it  to  us,  but  he 
refused;  then  we  tried  to  buy  it,  but  he  would  not  part 
with  the  handkerchief  of  the  great  explorer.  The  re- 
ligious work  with  these  people  was  not  very  hopeful. 
They  were  reserved,  hard  to  reach,  and  clung  to  their 
idols  of  wood. 

Mr.  Lapsley  Leaves  for  Bolobo. — After  eleven  days 
stay  at  Stanley  Pool,  Mr.  Lapsley  left  for  Bolobo,  a 
mission  station  of  the  Baptist  Missionary  Society, 
five  days'  steaming  up  the  Congo  river,  to  elicit  informa- 
tion from  Rev.  George  Grenfell,  a  missionary  and  ex- 
plorer. 

My  First  Hippopotamus. — In  the  "Pool"  we  saw 
many  hippopotami,  and  longed  to  go  out  in  a  canoe  and 
shoot  one,  but  being  warned  of  the  danger  from  the 
hippopotami  and  also  of  the  treacherous  current  of  the 
Congo  river,  which  might  take  us  over  the  rapids  and 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  35 

to  death,  we  were  afraid  to  venture.  A  native  Bateke 
fisherman,  just  a  few  days  before  our  arrival,  had  been 
crushed  in  his  canoe  by  a  bull-hippopotamus.  Many 
stories  of  hippopotami  horrors  were  told  us. 

One  day  Chief  N'Galiama  with  his  attendant  came 
to  the  mission  and  told  Dr.  Simms  that  the  people  in  the 
village  were  very  hungry  and  to  see  if  it  were  possible 
for  him  to  get  some  meat  to  eat. 

Dr.  Simms  called  me  and  explained  how  the  people 
were  on  the  verge  of  a  famine  and.  if  I  could  kill  them  a 
hippopotamus  it  would  help  greatly.  He  continued  to 
explain  that  the  meat  and  hide  would  be  dried  by  the 
people  and,  using  but  a  little  at  each  meal,  would  last 
them  a  long  time.  Dr.  Simms  mentioned  that  he  had 
never  hunted,  but  he  knew  where  the  game  was.  He 
said,  "I  will  give  you  a  native  guide,  you  go  with  him 
around  the  first  cataract  about  two  miles  from  here 
and  you  will  find  the  hippopotami."  I  was  delighted 
at  the  idea,  and  being  anxious  to  use  my  "Marteni 
Henry"  rifle  and  to  help  the  hungry  people,  I  consented 
to  go.  In  an  hour  and  a  half  we  had  walked  around 
the  rapids,  across  the  big  boulders,  and  right  before  us 
were  at  least  a  dozen  big  hippopotami.  Some  were 
frightened,  ducked  their  heads  and  made  off;  others 
showed  signs  of  fight  and  defiance. 

At  about  fifty  yards  distant  I  raised  my  rifle  and  let 
fly  at  one  of  the  exposed  heads.  My  guide  told  me  that 
the  hippopotamus  was  shot  and  killed.  In  a  few  min- 
utes another  head  appeared  above  the  surface  of  the 
water  and  again  taking  aim  I  fired  with  the  same  result. 
The  guide,  who  was  a  subject  of  the  Chief  N'Galiama, 
sprung  upon  a  big  boulder  and  cried  to  me  to  look  at  the 
big  bubbles  which  were  appearing  on  the  water;  then 
explained  in  detail  that  the  hii^i^opotami  had  drowned 


36  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

and  would  rise  to  the  top  of  the  water  within  an  hour. 
The  guide  asked  to  go  to  a  fishing  camp  nearby  and  call 
some  men  to  secure  the  hippopotami  when  they  rose, 
or  else  they  would  go  out  with  the  current  and  over  the 
rapids.  In  a  very  short  time  about  fifty  men,  bringing 
native  rope  with  them,  were  on  the  scene  and  truly,  as 
the  guide  had  said,  up  came  the  first  hippopotamus,  his 
big  back  showing  first.  A  number  of  the  men  were  off 
swimming  with  the  long  rope  which  was  tied  to  the  hippo- 
potamus' foot.  A  signal  was  given  and  every  man  did 
his  best.  No  sooner  had  we  secured  the  one  near  shore 
than  there  was  a  wild  shout  to  untie  and  hasten  for  the 
other.  These  two  were  securely  tied  by  their  feet  and 
big  boulders  were  rolled  on  the  rope  to  keep  them  from 
drifting  out  into  the  current. 

The  short  tails  of  both  of  them  were  cut  off  and  we 
started  home.  We  reported  to  Dr.  Simms  that  we  had 
about  four  or  five  tons  of  meat  down  on  the  river  bank. 
The  native  town  ran  wild  with  delight.  Many  natives 
came  to  examine  my  gun  which  had  sent  the  big  bullets 
crashing  through  the  brain  of  the  hippopotami.  Early 
the  next  morning  N'Galiama  sent  his  son  Nzelie  with  a 
long  caravan  of  men  to  complete  the  work.  They  leaped 
upon  the  backs  of  the  hippopotami,  wrestled  with  each 
other  for  a  while,  and  then  with  knives  and  axes  fell  to 
work.  The  missionaries  enjoyed  a  hippopotamus  steak 
that  day  also. 

Hunting  Hippopotami  Around  Stanley  Pool. — 
Hunting,  though  a  pleasant  and  profitable  pastime  and 
a  splendid  way  in  which  to  pick  up  the  native  language, 
is  an  exceedingly  dangerous  one.  One  day  the  Bateke 
natives  came  running  all  excited  saying  there  was  a  big 
female  hippo  feeding  on  a  small  grassy  island  not  five 
hundred    yards    from     the    Mission    Compound.     Dr. 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  37 

Simms  called  out,  "Get  your  gun,  go  quickly,  there  is 
a  hippo  on  the  island." 

Six  men  were  in  readiness  with  paddles  in  hand  and 
as  soon  as  I  had  stepped  in  the  canoe  off  they  pulled 
at  full  speed.  In  a  few  minutes  we  were  alongside  the 
island  under  cover  of  the  long  grass.  The  wise  hippo 
scented  us  and  started  for  the  water,  but  with  the  crack 
of  my  rifle  she  fell  in  her  tracks,  killed  instantly.  A  great 
shout  came  from  the  crowd  of  men,  women  and  children 
on  the  beach. 

In  an  hour's  time  with  a  score  of  men  the  hippo  had 
been  cut  up  and  transported  to  the  main  shore.  More 
than  a  ton  of  meat  was  sold  to  the  hundreds  of  natives 
and  given  to  the  chiefs. 

Banqua's  Spirit. — With  two  large  canoes  and  four- 
teen men  pulling  against  a  current  we  were  soon  at  a 
point  sixteen  miles  from  the  mission.  Our  canoes  were 
dragged  up  on  the  sand  and  the  natives  told  me  to  fol- 
low them.  We  made  our  way  with  great  difficulty 
through  the  high  grass  and  reached  a  small  lake  in  the 
center  of  the  island.  There  were  six  hippopotami  in 
the  lake.  One  of  them,  a  very  large  bull  hippo,  bowed 
his  neck,  grunted  in  a  deep  bass  voice,  and  came  rush- 
ing toward  the  bank.  The  natives  quickly  surrounded 
me,  explaining  that  the  spirit  of  one  of  the  chiefs  (named 
Banqua)  dwelt  in  that  hippo  and  not  to  shoot  it.  They 
said,  "If  that  hippo  is  killed  our  chief  will  also  die,  and 
we  will  have  plenty  of  trouble  with  our  town  when  we 
return." 

I  gave  attention  to  their  superstition  and  waited  for 
them  to  point  out  the  proper  one.  In  a  few  minutes 
the  hippopotami  reappeared  on  the  surface  of  the 
water.  The  bull  remained  within  ten  >ards  of  us, 
bellowing  at  the  top  of  his  voice.     The  nati\es  pointed 


38  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

out  a  dark  brown  female  about  fifty  yards  away.  I 
raised  my  rifle  and  the  bullet  entered  the  head  of  the 
hippo  just  under  the  ear,  and  she  sank  slowly  and  quietly 
to  the  bottom  of  the  lake. 

The  natives  soon  had  the  grass  cleared,  a  fire  burning, 
and  their  sharp  knives  in  readiness  for  a  feast. 

While  waiting  for  our  hippo  to  rise  we  waded  through 
the  grass  and  marsh  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  there  to 
our  great  surprise,  not  more  than  forty  yards  away, 
stood  an  elephant  quietly  grazing.  We  stopped  and 
gazed  at  the  monster.  I  thought  of  the  quantity  of 
meat  which  we  had  already  secured,  and  retraced  our 
steps  to  the  lake.  The  natives  were  very  much  exercised 
over  my  not  shooting  the  elephant.  I  told  them  it  was 
not  right  to  kill  simply  to  be  killing,  and  as  w^e  have  no 
steamboat  to  carry  the  meat  away,  it  would  lie  here  in 
the  sun  and  decay. 

By  this  time  our  hippo  had  floated  and  I  called  to  the 
men  to  take  the  rope,  swim  in  and  tie  it  to  the  nose  and 
we  would  pull  it  near  the  shore.  Not  a  man  moved, 
though  they  were  all  good  swimmers. 

One  of  the  men  explained  that  the  lake  was  filled  with 
crocodiles. 

I  said  to  him,  "You  do  not  see  a  crocodile  in  the  whole 
lake.  You  men  are  too  timid,  you  are  afraid  of  a  dead 
hippo." 

I  pressed  upon  two  of  the  men  as  strongly  as  possible 
to  take  the  rope  and  swim  away. 

One  of  the  natives  politely  asked  if  people  in  the 
foreign  country  could  swim.  "Yes,"  I  replied,  "and 
they  are  good  swimmers,  too;  and  if  you  won't  go  after 
that  hippo,  I  will." 

But  another  said,  "Don't  go,  the  wind  will  blow  it  to 
shore." 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  39 

Taking  the  rope  and  putting  the  loop  on  my  arm,  I 
jumped  in  and  swam  to  the  hippo.  As  I  began  to  tie 
the  rope  around  her  nose  up  came  a  monster  crocodile 
and  made  a  terrible  lunge  at  her  neck.  Not  a  moment 
did  I  tarry  to  see  what  effect  his  sharp  teeth  had  on  the 
hippo,  but  turned  the  rope  loose  and  under  the  water 
I  went,  and  was  half  way  to  the  shore  when  I  came  up. 
The  natives  were  very  much  excited  and  assisted  me  in 
landing.  I  begged  their  pardon  and  was  ashamed  of 
my  braver}'. 

Many  times  in  Central  Africa  foreigners  get  into  seri- 
ous difficulties  from  which  they  cannot  extricate  them- 
selves by  disregarding  the  advice  of  natives. 

Sure  enough  by  3  P.  M.  our  hippo,  having  been  blown 
by  the  gentle  breeze,  was  lying  alongside  the  shore. 
There  were  any  number  of  crocodile  heads  in  sight  and 
several  very  near  the  hippo,  sniffing  the  blood.  After 
cutting  off  a  good,  substantial  steak,  we  enjoyed  a 
hearty  supper  and  retired  for  the  night  under  a  beauti- 
ful moonlit  sky. 

At  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  began  cutting  up  our 
hippo  and  bs'  12  o'clock  we  were  loaded  and  under  way 
on  our  return  journey.  The  men  sang  and  paddled 
and  were  happy  until  the  wind  rose  and  the  waves  of  the 
Congo  threatened  to  swamp  us.  Then  they  began  to 
call  upon  their  idols  to  save  them.  We  rounded  "Gallina 
Point,"  one  of  the  most  dangerous  places  on  the  river, 
our  canoes  going  at  full  speed  with  the  strong  current, 
and  early  the  same  afternoon  we  landed  at  the  mission, 
disposed  of  our  cargo,  and  sat  down  to  think  and  talk 
of  our  adventure. 

Through  the  Cataracts. — Before  many  days  had 
elapsed,  there  was  a  call  to  shoot  another  hippopotamus 
which  was  about  600  yards  direct  out  from  the  mission 
just  above  the  first  cataract. 


40  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

In  a  few  minutes  the  native  men  were  ready.  One 
canoe  glided  along  swiftly,  keeping  the  hippo  to  the  left 
of  us.  It  disappeared  several  times  under  the  water, 
but  at  last,  excited  by  our  challenge,  he  started  for  the 
canoe,  and  within  twenty  yards  of  us  he  received  the 
bullet  in  the  forehead  and  down  he  sank.  We  returned 
to  the  beach  and  in  an  hour  he  rose  to  the  surface  of  the 
water. 

We  were  off  again,  the  men  plying  their  paddles  with 
power.  When  the  floating  monster  was  reached,  we 
succeeded  in  tying  him  by  the  nose  with  a  short  rope, 
which  was  also  tied  to  the  canoe. 

All  ready,  we  started  with  all  our  strength  towing  our 
cargo,  but  it  was  useless;  the  current  was  too  strong 
and  we  had  drifted  too  near  the  rapids. 

I  pulled  a  knife  from  my  belt,  cut  the  rope,  and  di- 
rected the  men  to  turn  the  bow  of  the  canoe  towards  the 
rapids.  W^ith  strong  arm  and  steady  nerves  those  men 
guided  the  canoe  through  the  dashing  waves  to  a  bay  of 
safely  below. 

The  hippo  was  found  the  next  day  washed  upon  the 
sand  by  a  strong  back  current. 

To  the  Rescue  of  Mr.  Rogers. — I  was-  invited  by 
Rev.  Rogers  to  take  another  hunt  with  him  for  hippo- 
potami in  the  Pool.  Mr.  Rogers  with  his  canoe  led 
the  way.  At  noon  we  landed  on  a  sandbank  and  pre- 
pared dinner  from  a  wild  duck  shot  on  the  way.  After 
dinner  it  was  suggested  that  we  cross  the  Congo  to  the 
north  bank.  My  canoe  led  the  way.  When  half  way 
across  the  river  my  men  called  out  excitedly,  "Hguva 
kuvanda  Mundele!"  (a  hippo  is  killing  the  white  man.) 
I  called  out,  "Vutuka!"  (Return),  and  in  an  instant  my 
canoe  was  right  about  and  under  way.  All  the  paddlers 
from  Mr.  Rogers'  canoe  had  jumped  out  and  were  swim- 


MATADI    AND    STANLEY    POOL  41 

ming  toward  shore.  As  the  great  l)rute  rushed  to  crush 
the  canoe  I  let  fl>',  shooting  him  through  the  brain. 
We  pulled  alongside  of  the  missionary's  canoe  and  towed 
him  into  shore. 

In  an  hour's  time  we  had  landed  our  hippo  and  were 
busy  cutting  him  up.  We  returned  the  same  afternoon 
to  the  mission. 

Around  Stanley  Pool  within  a  short  time  we  had  killed 
thirty-six  hippopotami.  The  proceeds  from  these  hunts 
we  used  toward  helping  to  defray  our  expenses  while  we 
w^ere  delayed  at  Stanley  Pool. 


42  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

Chapter  III. 
The  Kwango  Expedition. 

Hunting  Porters  for  the  Kasai- Kwango  Expedi- 
tion.— Not  being  able  to  hire  carriers  at  Stanley  Pool, 
it  was  necessary  to  take  a  journey  140  miles  into  the 
cataract  region  to  find  men.  I  made  the  journey,  se- 
cured twenty-five  men,  and  returned  to  Stanley  Pool. 

Mr.  Lapsley's  Return  from  Bolobo. — I  reached 
Stanley  Pool  on  the  25th  of  October  and  found  Mr. 
Lapsley  in  good  health  and  fine  spirits.  He  had  en- 
joyed his  up-river  trip  and  received  much  help  and  in- 
formation from  the  kind  missionaries  of  the  Baptist 
Missionary  Society. 

We  had  a  talk  with  the  twenty-five  men  about  our 
plans  to  take  an  overland  journey  to  Kinkunji.  We 
told  them  that  we  were  prospecting  for  a  new  Mission 
Society  (The  Southern  Presbyterian).  The  men  lis- 
tened attentively,  but  when  dawn  broke  there  was  not 
a  man  of  them  to  be  found.  They  had  heard  of  the 
hostility  of  the  Kwango  people  and  so  decided  to  return 
to  their  own  homes. 

Mr.  Lapsley  Gets  a  Fresh  Set  of  Men. — On  October 
28th  Mr.  Lapsley  started  down  country  in  search  of 
fresh  men  for  our  Kinkunji  journey.  By  December  3rd 
he  had  collected  the  necessary  men  and  returned  to  us 
at  Stanley  Pool. 

Decide  on  River  Journey. — We  had  prayer  for  the 
Master's  guidance,  and  after  talking  over  our  plans 
thoroughly  we  decided  to  take  our  journey  by  water 
and  not  overland. 


THE    KWANGO    EXPEDITION  43 

Renting  a  Canoe. — For  our  journey  a  canoe  was 
needed,  and  I  was  detailed  to  hire  a  large  one  from 
N'Guba,  a  Bateke  chief.  I  succeeded  in  getting  a 
large,  strong  canoe  by  promising  its  return  with  not 
less  than  a  hundred  pounds  of  dried  hippo  meat  as  pay. 

Ready  for  the  Journey. — On  December  11th  our 
canoe  was  lashed  alongside  the  S.  S.  Henry  Reed. 
Mr.  Billington,  an  A.  M.  B.  U.  missionary  and  captain 
of  the  steamer,  kindly  consented  to  tow  us  on  our  jour- 
ney as  far  as  he  went. 

In  the  canoe  was  placed  our  tent,  camp  beds,  cooking 
utensils,  some  clothing,  our  guns,  and  barter  goods  of 
white  domestic,  beads  and  brass  wire.  At  the  bow  of 
the  canoe  we  tied  "Tippotib,"  a  black  Stanley  Falls 
monkey.  In  a  few  hours  Stanley  Pool  with  its  white- 
washed Mission  Compound  was  left  far  behind  us. 

We  Purchase  a  Big  Canoe. — On  December  16th 
we  put  into  a  village  near  the  confluence  of  the  Kasai 
with  the  Congo  river.  The  villagers,  Bayansie,  were 
not  hostile,  but  received  us  kindly.  We  saw  a  beauti- 
ful canoe  which  could  easily  hold  fifteen  or  more  pad- 
dlers.  We  needed  thai  canoe,  and  in  less  than  an  hour's 
time  we  had  bought  it  and  hired  more  men  for  our  river 
journey. 

Farewell  to  the  S.  S.  Henry  Reed. — Saying  good- 
bye to  the  missionaries,  we  started  on  our  journey  via 
the  Kasai  river.  The  men  had  a  stiff  pull  in  the  strong 
current  when  turning  out  of  the  Congo  into  the  Kasai. 

Christmas  in  Central  Africa. — December  25,  1891. 
Christmas  morning  we  started  early  on  our  journey. 
Crossing  to  the  left  bank,  where  a  number  of  canoes 
were  moored  under  some  shade  trees,  we  discovered  a 
trail.  Making  our  canoe  fast,  we  followed  the  trail 
through  the  forest  and  came  upon  a  fortified  village. 


44  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

After  much  parley  with  the  villagers  the  gate  was 
opened  and  we  entered.  We  were  glad  to  buy  fresh 
buffalo  meat  and  eggs,  giving  in  exchange  beads.  We 
then  returned  to  our  canoes.  During  the  day  a  guinea 
fowl,  an  eagle,  and  a  very  large  red  monkey  were  killed. 
At  nightfall  we  camped  near  a  village.  The  people 
were  friendly  and  were  much  interested  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  our  feast  of  eagle  fowl  and  monkey. 

After  supper  we  had  our  usual  nightly  devotions, 
the  crew  and  villagers  being  present. 

Mr.  Lapsley's  Big  Hippo. — The  following  day  Mr. 
Lapsley  shot  a  wild  pigeon,  a  duck  and  a  hippopotamus, 
and  the  whole  night  was  spent  in  drying  hippo  meat  over 
a  big  fire. 

The  First  Sermon  in  the  Kasai. — December  28th 
being  Sunday,  we  spent  it  quietly  in  the  forest  near  the 
river  bank.  Mr.  Lapsley  had  charge  of  the  services. 
His  was  the  first  known  sermon  ever  preached  and  the 
first  hymn  ever  sung  in  that  great  Kasai  valley. 

Welcome  by  Queen  N'Gankabe. — On  Monday  we 
made  a  good  run.  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Lapsley  wa 
taken  down  with  fever.  We  put  into  a  village  and  found 
it  to  be  a  large  one.  A  few  men  came  to  the  river  bank. 
We  spoke  to  them  and  one  of  them  ran  back  to  the 
village  and  told  the  news  of  foreigners  near.  In  a  few 
minutes  a  tall,  broad-shouldered,  bronze  colored,  well 
featured  woman  came  walking  slowly  down  the  path 
accompanied  by  a  number  of  other  women.  As  I  put 
forth  my  hand  to  greet  her  she  told  me  her  name  was 
"Ngankabe." 

I  explained  that  there  was  a  white  man  in  the  canoe 
sick.  She  at  once  without  timidity  stepped  into  the 
canoe,  shook  hands  with  Mr.  Lapsley,  and  invited  us  to 


THE    KWANGO    EXPEDITION  45 

spend  the  night.  We  thanked  her  for  her  hospitable 
invitation,  though  we  could  not  stay. 

A  Hostile  Town. — Just  as  the  sun  was  setting  we 
put  into  a  town  to  camp  for  the  night.  The  villagers 
were  up  and  under  arms  in  a  moment's  notice.  The 
war  drum  beat,  the  women  screamed,  and  the  whole 
town  was  in  a  terrible  state  of  excitement.  Guns, 
spears,  bows  and  arrows  were  in  the  hands  of  the  men, 
who  were  rushing  in  our  direction.  I  stepped  forward 
quickly  and,  picking  up  some  beads  and  calico  cloth, 
held  them  aloft  and  pleaded  with  the  men  not  to  shoot 
but  let  us  land  for  the  night.  They  brandished  their 
spears,  pointed  their  guns  and  called  to  us  to  leave  at 
once  or  we  would  be  killed. 

With  all  my  pleading  and  offering  of  presents  they 
would  have  nothing  to  do  with  us.  They  only  called  in 
loud,  excited  voices,  "Yaka!  Yaka!"  (Go  away!  Go 
away!)  Seeing  that  our  situation  was  perilous,  I  called 
to  our  men  to  pull  on  their  paddles  and  directed  them  to 
cross  the  river  for  the  other  side. 

Our  boatmen  were  much  excited  and  we  feared  for 
a  while  a  fight  between  them  and  the  villagers.  We 
quieted  our  men,  and  urged  them  to  paddle  their  very 
best.     One  shot  was  fired  at  us,  but  missed  its  aim. 

The  river  was  more  than  a  mile  broad  and  darkness 
was  coming  on  fast,  so  we  landed  on  a  sand  bank.  We 
got  up  the  tent  and  Mr.  Lapsley  was  carefully  moved 
into  his  bed.  A  fearful  Congo  storm  swept  down  upon 
us  that  night  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  we 
kept  the  tent  and  canoe  from  being  blown  away.  Mr. 
Lapsley  had  taken  a  good  dose  of  calomel  and  jalap 
and  by  midnight  he  was  very  much  better. 

All  night  we  could  hear  the  restless,  excited  natives 
on    the   other   side   of   the   river.     Earl\-    next    morning 


46  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

we  secured  our  hippo  which  had  been  shot  the  night  of 
our  landing.  We  saw  natives  astride  of  their  houses 
calling  out  in  loud  voices.  Soon  a  big  canoe  pulled  out 
from  their  side  of  the  river  filled  with  men.  Another 
canoe  followed,  and  still  another.  I  ran  into  the  tent 
and  told  Mr.  Lapsley  that  the  natives  who  ran  us  away 
last  night  were  coming.  We  were  not  sure  what  they 
intended,  but  to  be  on  the  safe  side  we  thought  to  offer 
them  a  part  of  our  hippo  meat.  Beckoning  to  them, 
though  they  were  coming  any  way,  and  pointing  to  the 
tempting  meat,  I  continued  with  uplifted  hands  and 
loud  calls,  and  before  we  could  realize  it  to  be  a  fact 
they  had  landed  their  canoes  on  the  sand  bank  and  were 
equally   excited   in   fussing  and   fighting  over   the   gift. 

In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Lapsley  was  better  and  we  were 
able  to  continue  our  journey.  For  another  week,  day 
after  day,  we  made  our  way  up  the  great  Kasai  river. 
We  had  many  experiences  with  elephant,  hippopotami 
and  buffalo,  with  natives  hostile  and  friendly. 

When  about  200  miles  from  Stanley  Pool  we  reached 
the  Kwango  river.  Leaving  the  Kasai  to  the  left,  we 
turned  into  the  Kwango.  After  an  hour's  pulling  we 
came  to  a  very  large  village.  The  people  were  timid 
and  had  their  spears,  bows  and  arrows.  As  we  pulled 
slowly  to  the  landing  the  people  rushed  back  from  the 
beach,  some  of  them  running  behind  their  houses; 
but  with  our  many  smiles  and  the  tricks  of  our  monkey, 
"Tippotib,"  who  was  playing  at  the  bow  of  the  first  canoe, 
the  villagers  were  attracted  and  came  nearer. 

We  landed,  bought  a  fine  bunch  of  sun  perch,  a  basket 
of  eggs,  and  had  dinner.  Later  we  withdrew  to  an 
island  and  camped  for  the  night.  - 

A  Sight  for  a  Mission  Station  Offered  Us. — Early 
next  morning  the  chief  from  Boleke  and  his  daughter 


THE    KWANGO    EXPEDITION  47 

Antinobe,  accompanied  by  two  canoes  filled  with  people, 
came  to  see  us.  They  brought  us  chickens,  fish  and  a 
number  of  bunches  of  bananas  and  pineapples. 

We  in  turn  gave  a  present  of  brass  wire,  beads,  cloth 
and  salt.  We  explained  to  the  chief  that  we  were 
journeying  to  Kinkunji,  hoping  to  see  a  good  place  on 
which  to  build  houses  and  live.  We  further  explained 
that  our  work  was  to  teach  the  people  about  God. 

Our  friends  seemed  to  get  some  idea  of  what  our  busi- 
ness was,  for  the  old  chief  offered  us  land  in  his  own  town 
and  said  he  would  charge  us  nothing  for  it.  He  urged 
us  strongly  to  live  with  them.  The  next  day  hundreds 
of  people  crowded  the  beach  and  waved  us  good-bye! 

One  of  Our  Men  is  Captured. — When  we  were 
about  five  miles  from  our  last  camp  one  of  our  canoes 
was  swept  by  the  strong  current  under  a  low-lying  limb 
and  our  man  Mumpuya  was  knocked  overboard.  He 
swam  ashore  and  was  caught  by  the  natives  in  the  jungle. 
Hearing  his  screams  for  help,  our  canoe  was  quickly 
ashore  and  we  were  out  and  to  the  rescue.  Through 
the  high  grass  and  jungle  we  chased  the  natives,  who 
seemed  determined  to  carry  him  off.  One  of  the  na- 
tives raised  a  spear  to  throw,  but  we  were  too  quick  for 
him,  and  with  Mumpuya  we  were  soon  again  in  our 
canoes. 

Being  so  menaced  by  the  natives  following  us,  and 
growing  more  hostile  as  we  journeyed,  we  had  to  cross 
to  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  in  one  of  the  towns 
we  had  many  things  stolen  from  us  during  the  night 
while  we  slept. 

No  Proper  Place  for  a  Mission  Station. — Though 
we  had  traveled  a  great  distance  in  the  Kwango,  we  had 
not  seen  a  really  suitable  [)lace  for  a  Mission  Station. 
The    country   was    too    low    and    swamp>',    the   villages 


48  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

small  and  far  apart.     Thc,y  had  no  king,  but  were  gov- 
erned by  small  chiefs. 
The   Last   Two   of   the   Lost   Fourteen. — As   we 

rested  for  our  mid-day  lunch,  two  men,  much  emaciated 
and  almost  naked,  crawled  out  of  the  high  grass  and 
called  to  us  in  the  BaCongo  dialect.     We  were  amazed. 

"Who  are  you?"  we  asked. 

They  explained  that  they  had  been  lost,  fourteen  of 
them,  from  a  steamer  on  the  Kasai  river. 

"Where  are  the  others?"  we  anxiously  asked. 

"They  have  been  killed  by  the  natives,"  was  the  timid 
reply. 

There  were  these  two  men  who  had  been  wandering 
for  weeks,  eating  roots  and  what  fruits  they  could  get, 
and  sleeping  in  the  grass  and  jungle  dodging  the  danger- 
ous BaDima  natives.  Happier  persons  could  not  be 
imagined  as  we  told  these  two  lost  men  to  get  into  our 
canoes. 

We  recrossed  the  river,  and  in  crossing  encountered 
no  less  than  a  hundred  hippopotami.  '  They  rushed 
savagely  at  our  canoes  from  both  sides  and  only  by  keep- 
ing up  a  continuous  fire  from  our  rifles  to  frighten  them 
could  we  pass  in  safety. 

The  Impassable  Rapids  of  Mwamba. — On  we 
journeyed,  day  after  day,  till  we  reached  the  impassable 
Rapids  of  Mwamba.  We  spent  two  days  looking 
around  the  country  and  palavering  with  the  chiefs  and 
people.  Not  finding  a  suitable  place  for  a  Mission 
Station,  we  began  our  return  journey  to  Stanley  Pool. 

Descending  the  Kwilu. — Our  natives  were  in  the 
best  of  spirits,  we  had  a  good  supply  of  dried  buffalo 
and  hippopotamus  meat,  bunches  of  bananas,  plantains 
and  pineapples.  Our  head  man  blew  several  blasts 
from  his  big  ivory  horn,  the  men  sang,  and  plied  their 


THE    KWANGO    EXPEDITION  49 

long  paddles  with  vigor  as  they  stood  in  rows  on  cither 
side  of  the  big  canoes.  We  glided  down  the  swift  river 
like  >oung  steamers.  Our  first  camping  place  was  where 
the  Kwilu  emptied  into  the  Kwango  river.  We  shot  a 
hippo  and  secured  him  at  once  as  he  fell  in  the  shallow 
water.  We  next  camped  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Kwango  with  the  Kasai  river.  As  soon  as  we  had 
pitched  our  tent,  half-clad  natives  came  around  with 
bunches  of  fish  to  barter  for  salt,  beads  and  brass  wire. 

We  left  our  camping  place  at  peep  of  day,  entered  the 
Kasai  river,  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Congo,  and 
pulled  at  full  speed  till  3  P.  M.  We  stopped  on  an  island 
for  a  hasty  lunch  and  continued  our  journey,  hoping  to 
pass  the  hostile  village  of  Musye  at  midnight  while  the 
warriors  slept.  We  were  fortunate  in  having  but 
little  wind,  for  storms  on  these  rivers  are  so  dangerous 
that  steamers  must  seek  for  shelter  and  tie  up  near  shore. 
We  kept  as  near  midstream  as  possible.  All  was  quiet 
save  the  bellowing  of  a  bull  hippo  near  shore,  or  the 
trumpeting  of  an  elephant  on  the  plain.  We  had  some 
misgivings  in  passing  this  big  town,  Musye,  which  had 
made  an  attack  on  us  when  we  were  on  our  up-river 
journey.  Now  and  then  we  would  tell  our  men  to  paddle 
quietly  and  keep  the  two  canoes  near  together. 

Cautiously  Passing  Musye. — Even  with  all  our 
precautions  a  great  voice  called  across  the  water  from 
a  sand  bank  near  the  town: 

"Who  passes?"     (No  one  answered.) 

"Who  passes?"  came  to  us  again  in  angry  tones. 

We  thought  it  the  best  policy  to  answer,  so  our  head 
man,  Makwala,  answered:  "Friends  are  passing,  going 
down  to  Stanley  Pool."  Again  all  was  quiet.  When  we 
were  certain  we  had  passed  the  five-mile  long  town 
Musye,  our  men  strengthened  their  arms  and  our  canoes 


50  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

fairly  flew.  Another  camp  brought  us  into  the  waters 
of  the  great  Congo  river.  We  crossed  to  the  right  bank 
and  camped  just  above  what  is  known  as  N'Ganches 
Point. 

Lions  on  the  Right  Bank, — Our  men  informed  us 
that  there  were  lions  in  the  neighborhood,  so  we  gath- 
ered wood  from  the  forest  and  kept  a  roaring  fire  all 
night.  Consequently  we  had  no  visits  from  these  in- 
truders. 

Stanley  Pool. — In  three  more  days  we  reached  Stan- 
ley Pool.  On  this  Kwango  expedition  we  had  met  four 
new  tribes,  had  seen  the  general  topography  of  the  coun- 
try, knew  its  products  in  field,  forest  and  river,  and  had 
useful  information  and  experiences  which  would  help 
us  greatly  in  our  next  journey.  We  shot  elephants, 
hippopotami,  monkeys,  eagles,  ducks  and  other  game, 
of  which  we  ate  much  and  bartered  the  rest  to  the 
natives. 

God  had  blessed  us  with  health  and  carried  us  safely 
through  many  dangers,  for  which  we  were  more  grate- 
ful than  we  could  possibly  express. 


EIGHT    HUNDRED    MILES    OF    PERIL  51 

Chapter  IV. 
Eight  Hundred  Miles  of  Peril. 

Turning  Our  Faces  Toward  the  Kasai. — On  March 
17th  we  boarded  a  flat  Ijottomed  stern  wheeler  wood 
burning  steamer,  the  Florida.  After  many  blasts 
from  her  whistle,  the  crew,  thirty  native  men,  pushed 
her  from  the  beach  and  climbed  in  over  her  sides. 

Captain  Galhier,  a  Belgian,  had  the  steamer  in  charge. 
Mr.  Sirex,  a  Dane,  was  the  engineer.  The  engines, 
boilers,  crew,  wood,  dining  room,  which  was  used  as 
cabin,  were  all  on  the  one  lower  deck.  The  upper  deck 
being  flat  and  weather  boarded,  was  used  for  ropes, 
tools,  chicken  coop  and  a  small  pilot  house.  The 
Florida  steamed  \qv\  well  and  we  tied  up  late  that 
afternoon  just  outside  of  the  Pool.  The  crew  went 
ashore  with  their  axes  and  from  the  forest  they  brought 
dead  trees  and  cut  them  up  in  lengths  of  two  feet  to 
fire  the  engines  with  the  next  day.  We  were  earl\-  to 
rest,  l}ing  on  the  benches  on  either  side  of  the  dining 
table. 

March  18th. — Steamed  to-day  only  seven  hours. 
Tied  up  at  the  bank  about  a  mile  from  a  native  village. 
The  captain  asked  me  to  take  the  steamer's  canoe  and 
some  of  the  men  and  drop  down  to  the  village  and  buy 
food  for  the  crew,  furnishing  the  money  (brass  wire  the 
size  of  telegraph  wire  and  cut  in  one-foot  lengths). 
The  village  tried  to  catch  us  a  few  chickens,  but  did  not 
succeed.  However,  we  bought  a  bunch  of  plantains 
and  a  bunch  of  bananas — not  enough  for  one  meal  for 
the    crew.     On    returning    to    the    steamer    a    tornado 


52  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

swept  down  upon  us  and  we  had  great  difficulty  in  sav- 
ing ourselves  and  the  canoe. 

March  19th. — Last  night's  storm  had  driven  the 
steamer  hard  and  fast  on  the  bank  and  it  took  two  hours 
to  float  her  again.  The  current  was  very  strong  all 
day  and  the  wood,  being  wet,  we  made  but  little  progress. 

March  20th.- — To-day  just  about  noon  a  sudden 
storm  broke  upon  us,  and  thunder  and  lightning  and 
rain  seemed  to  defy  our  reaching  the  beach.  Big  waves 
dashed  over  the  Florida's  deck  and  for  a  while  we  were 
in  peril.  The  captain  called  to  me  and  asked  if  he  should 
stop,  but  I  answered  quickly,  "No,  captain,  never;  run 
her  full  speed  on  the  shallow  bank."  By  so  doing  she 
stuck  fast  in  the  sand  while  the  men  quickly  (and  I  as- 
sisted them)  made  the  chain  fast  around  a  near  tree. 
When  the  storm  had  passed  all  hands,  with  the  engines 
going  full  speed  astern,  pushed  her  off  and  we  con- 
tinued our  journey,  reaching  the  Kasai  river  in  the 
afternoon.  In  our  devotions  that  night  we  thanked  the 
Lord  for  bringing  us  safely  through  another  day  of 
dangers. 

March  21st. — The  captain  anticipated  trouble.  We 
could  see  the  red  waters  of  the  Kasai  running  into  the 
Congo  like  a  mill  race.  All  the  tributaries  of  the  Kasai 
valley  run  into  the  Kasai  river,  and  just  here  at  its 
mouth  the  Kasai  is  only  about  150  yards  across,  with  a 
great  wall  of  rocks  on  either  side.  The  fire  bars  of  the 
boiler  had  been  complained  of  by  the  engineer,  who  was 
unable  to  get  up  sufficient  steam.  The  captain  called 
me  to  the  wheel  house  and  asked  that  I  take  the  wheel 
while  he  directed  the  course.  I  did  so  with  pleasure. 
We  steamed  off,  turned  the  nose  of  the  steamer  around 
the  sharp  point  and  into  the  strong  current  of  the  Kasai. 
The  captain  rang  his  bell  for  full  speed.     The  Florida 


EIGHT   HUNDRED    MU.ES    OF    PERIL  53 

did  her  best,  but  the  current  was  too  strong.  She 
quivered  under  the  strain  and  was  forced  backward  to 
the  point  from  which  she  had  started.  Again  we  tried, 
but  with  the  same  result.  The  whirlpools  and  strong 
current  seemed  too  much  for  the  Florida's  strength. 
Not  a  man  on  board  spoke  a  word;  all  was  still  as  death. 
The  engineer  was  doing  his  best  at  firing.  The  captain 
again  rang  for  full  speed;  we  steamed  for  five  hours, 
making  only  a  half  mile.  While  the  steamer  was  under 
such  an  awful  strain  the  rudder  chain  snapped  and  there 
we  were  in  that  awful  current  betw^een  a  hill  of  stones 
and  no  rudder  chain.  I  called  out  to  the  captain  to  keep 
her  going,  and  then  ran  back  to  the  stern  of  the  boat, 
got  hold  of  the  iron  bar  which  governs  the  rudder,  and 
as  the  captain  signalled  to  me  with  his  hand,  guided  her 
safely  to  a  sand  spot  just  between  two  enormous 
boulders.  The  crew,  as  quick  as  a  flash,  were  out  with 
the  anchor  and  made  her  fast.  It  was  with  thankful 
hearts  to  God  that  we  stepped  from  the  steamer,  for  we 
could  have  been  so  easily  dashed  against  the  stones  and 
to  the  bottom  of  the  river. 

The  steam  was  turned  off  and  the  captain  and  en- 
gineer held  a  parley  of  what  was  to  be  done.  The  en- 
gineer insisted  on  turning  back  for  Stanley  Pool,  for,  as 
he  explained,  the  fire  bars  are  all  burned  out  and  the 
steamer  is  very  old.  No,  said  the  captain,  it  would  not 
do  to  turn  back.  Let  the  boiler  cool  off  and  repair  the 
fire  bars  tomorrow. 

March  22nd, .  Sunday. — All  day  the  bellows  and 
hammer  have  been  going  repairing  the  bent  and  broken 
fire  bars.  Mr.  Lapsley  and  I  spent  the  day  in  devotion 
and  reading. 

March  23rd. — Having  finished   the  repairs,  we  made 


54  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

an  early  start.  All  the  packing  cases  which  could  be 
found  were  broken  up  and  used  for  firing. 

In  five  hours  we  had  steamed  about  six  miles.  The 
river  broadened  and  the  current  was  not  so  strong.  At 
12  o'clock  we  put  into  a  village,  but  the  people  were 
frightened  and  ran  aw^ay,  so  we  were  unable  to  buy  food 
for  our  crew.  They  had  not  had  a  square  meal  for  three 
days.  At  2  o'clock  we  were  stopped  by  a  storm.  When 
the  storm  passed  we  hunted  for  buffalo.  There  w'ere 
hundreds  of  tracks,  but  we  returned  empty-handed. 

March  24th. — The  captain  asked  if  we  would  go  in 
the  canoe  and  shoot  something  for  the  men.  We  went, 
but  found  only  two  ducks.  A  native,  who  had  also 
killed  two  ducks,  pulled  his  canoe  alongside  of  ours. 
We  offered  to  buy  them  and  when  he  passed  them  over 
he  remarked  that  he  knew  our  faces  and  that  we  had 
given  him  hippo  meat  when  we  camped  in  his  town  on 
our  canoe  journey,  so  he  would  have  no  pay.  A  kind 
act  brings  its  reward,  even  in  Central  Africa. 

We  returned  to  the  steamer  with  four  ducks.  The 
Florida  continued  her  journey,  making  good  speed  the 
rest  of  the  day. 

March  25th. — We  were  detained  at  our  moorings, 
as  our  men  were  so  weak  from  hunger  they  could  gather 
but  little  wood  last  night.  They  are  in  a  pitiable  con- 
dition and  our  food  also  is  short.  The  captain  said  this 
evening  that  if  he  did  not  soon  get  food  for  his  men  he 
would  go  crazy. 

March  26th. — At  10  o'clock  we  sighted  a  village.  W^e 
steamed  in  and  made  fast  and  every  man  who  could  pull 
himself  along  went  ashore  and  began  trade  for  food. 
Chickens,  ducks,  hogs  and  a  number  of  dogs  were  bought; 
also  bunches  of  plantains  and  bananas.  Though  we 
stopped  for  hours  it  was  hard  to  get  the  crew  aboard 


EIGHT    HUNDRED    MILES    OF    PERIL  55 

again.  After  getting  under  way  the  captain  found 
that  he  was  five  workmen  short.  So  we  had  to  stop 
again  and  send  the  canoe  back  for  the  men. 

March  27th. — The  steamer  has  been  taking  a  rest 
to-day,  as  there  was  no  wood  to  fire  with.  Mr.  Lapsley 
has  an  additional  patient  on  his  hands.  I  took  sick 
early  this  morning  and  Mr.  Lapsley  almost  exhausted 
his  medicine  case,  but  the  ipecac,  dovers  powders, 
quinine,  calomel,  jalap  and  a  few  other  things  brought 
me  around. 

March  28th. — The  men  have  not  eaten  all  their  sup- 
ply of  hogs,  dogs  and  fruit,  so  no  one  has  cried  for  food 
to-day.  We  passed  a  village  and  attempted  to  land, 
but  the  natives  brandished  their  spears  and  showed  a 
bad  temper,  so  we  passed  on. 

March  29th,  Sunday. — The  steamer  made  a  splendid 
run  and  we  tied  up  early  this  afternoon.  The  beach  was 
filled  with  natives  selling  dried  hippo  meat,  fresh  fish 
(Kasai  salmon),  chickens,  eggs,  native  bread,  bananas 
and  pineapples,  and  wood  is  also  plentiful.  Captain 
tells  us  that  tomorrow  morning  we  pass  through  the 
famous  and  dangerous  Swinburne  Rapids. 

March  30th. — We  steamed  off  at  peep  of  day.  The 
captain,  Mr.  Lapsley  (the  ship's  doctor)  and  I  were  on 
the  bridge.  In  an  hour's  time  we  struck  the  swiftly 
running  current.  The  ship  staggered,  creened  to  one 
side  and  tried  it  again.  The  many  whirlpools  shifted 
her  from  side  to  side.  A  number  of  times  the  water  ran 
over  the  deck.  The  whole  pass  is  a  succession  of  stony 
reefs.  There  was  a  death  like  quietness  with  both  crew 
and  passengers.  Only  the  heart  throbs  of  the  engine 
under  her  great  strain  and  struggle  could  be  heard.  We 
breathed  a  sigh  of  relief  when  we  looked  back  and  saw 
the  rapids  running  wild  in  the  distance. 


56  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

Along  either  bank  there  are  miles  of  grassy  plains, 
and  we  passed  many  villages,  saw  scores  of  men  well 
armed  with  spears,  bows  and  arrows.  At  5  o'clock  we 
dropped  anchor  near  a  small  village.  The  people  were 
a  bit  timid,  the  women  and  children  taking  refuge  in 
the  high  grass,  but  the  men  continued  their  carving 
on  a  carcass  of  a  great  crocodile  by  the  bank  of  the  river. 
There  was  no  cutting  of  wood  for  the  steamer  until  our 
crew  had  their  portion  of  crocodile  cutlets. 

March  31st. — Started  off  under  full  steam,  but  had 
not  gone  far  when  a  storm  swept  down  upon  us,  driving 
the  steamer,  which  could  not  be  controlled,  right  into 
the  big  trees  along  the  bank  and  overhanging  limbs 
broke  the  cabin  in.  The  anchors  were  thrown  over  and 
held  fast. 

The  waves  drenched  everybody  and  everything. 
The  fierce  lightning  and  sharp  peals  of  thunder  added 
fresh  terror  to  the  situation.  When  the  storm  had 
abated  all  hands  helped  in  cutting  away  the  limbs  of 
the  trees  and  repairing  the  battered  cabin.  The  an- 
chors were  pulled  up  and  we  started  off  again,  but  we 
had  not  gone  far  when  the  contrary  current  drove  us 
broadside  into  the  bank  and  the  trees,  where  we  re- 
mained all  night. 

April  1st. — We  made  a  good  half  day's  run  to-day, 
but  were  stopped  at  1 :30  on  account  of  another  heavy 
tropical  storm. 

April  2nd. — Last  night  our  sleep  was  disturbed  by  a 
windstorm  which  threatened  to  break  the  chains  and 
ropes  of  the  anchors  and  put  us  adrift  in  the  darkness 
without  steam. 

April  3rd. — To-day  we  stopped  at  a  large  village 
(about  500  inhabitants).  The  villagers  were  calm  and 
received  us  kindly  and  our  crew  bought  plenty  of  food. 


EIGHT    HUNDRED    MILES    OF    PERIL  57 

The  captain  also  bought  bantam  chickens.  They 
seemed  to  be  everywhere  and  the  roosters  crowed  in  the 
same  language  as  an  American  fowl.  In  the  afternoon 
the  captain  sighted  hundreds  of  wild  ducks  on  a  large, 
sandy  island,  so  w^e  went  ashore  and  shot  a  few.  There 
were  aigrettes  flying  around  at  close  range,  but  we  did 
not  kill  them. 

The  temperature  at  4  P.  M.  stood  99  in  the  shade. 

April  .4th. — "Mount  Pouggie"  hove  in  sight  earl\  this 
morning.  It  is  a  high  blue  ridge,  the  only  approach  to 
a  mountain  in  this  region. 

A  village  near  the  water  refused  to  allow  us  to  land. 
The  captain  didn't  like  it,  so  he  blew  a  blast  from  the 
steamer's  whistle  and  those  warriors  fell  over  each  other 
getting  out  of  the  way. 

We  landed  at  another  village  and  found  the  people  to 
be  cannibals.  They  were  called  "Basonga  Meno," 
"Ba"  for  people,  "songa"  to  file,  and  "meno,"  teeth — 
the  "filed  teeth  people."  Their  teeth  were  all  filed  to  a 
sharp  point  and  their  faces  tattooed.  They  carried  large 
spears  and  quivers  of  poisonous  and  steel  arrows.  Two 
tiny  pieces  of  palm  fibre  cloth  was  all  they  wore.  Many 
of  them  brought  dogs  which  were  bought  at  once  by  our 
boatmen  for' food. 

April  5th,  Sunday. — The  passage  has  been  exceed- 
ingly difficult  on  account  of  the  many  sand  banks. 
The  steamer  tied  up  early  near  a  village  where  houses 
are  different  from  others  we  have  seen.  They  are  made 
of  bamboo  about  nine  feet  high.  The  door  is  reached  by 
a  ladder,  which  at  night  is  pulled  inside  and  the  door 
shut  so  they  are  safe  from  leopards. 

April  6th. — ^The  wood  being  very  wet,  the  engineer 
had  much  trouble  in  getting  up  steam  this  A.  M.  There 
are  not  many  sand  banks  and  the  water  is  deep. 


58  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

We  are  sleeping  near  a  village  tonight  where  our  crew 
can  buy  a  good  supply  of  food.  The  people  here  wear 
copper  rings  on  their  wrists  and  necks,  so  we  believe 
there  must  be  a  copper  mine  somewhere  back  in  the 
hills.  Speaking  of  engagement  rings,  we  have  seen  them 
weighing  thirty  pounds  on  the  necks  of  the  women. 

April  7th. — We  are  camping  in  a  creek,  a  tributary 
of  the  Kasai.  The  captain  saw  a  storm  coming  in  the 
distance  and  ran  the  steamer  inside  for  protection. 

April  8th. — The  steamer  ran  into  a  number  of  snags, 
but  without  damage.  We  saw  a  very  large  herd  of 
hippopotami  sunning  themselves  on  a  sand  bank,  and 
also  some  very  large  crocodiles  taking  a  sun  bath  with 
their  mouths  wide  open. 

April  9th. — One  of  the  steamer's  rudders  was  bent, 
and  the  steamer  had  to  be  lightened  to  be  repaired. 
While  waiting  "!he  natives  brought  goats  and  sheep  to 
sell.  The  sheep  have  no  wool  on  them.  Some  of  them 
were  bought  and  w^e  had  much  noise  from  the  bleating. 

The  country  is  thickly  populated  with  towns  from  a 
hundred  to  three  thousand  inhabitants.  The  steamer 
stopped  at  many  of  the  towns  and  bought  wood  for 
cowries  and   beads. 

April  10th. — The  rudders  gave  the  captain  much 
trouble  to-day,  and  so  we  were  compelled  to  camp  on  a 
small,  grassy  island  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  There 
was  no  storm  or  perhaps  we  should  have  been  blown  to 
pieces. 

April  11th. — We  saw  scores  of  large  black  monkeys 
leaping  from  tree  to  tree,  and  droves  of  parrots  flying 
in  the  air  as  thick  as  blackbirds.  Certainly  thousands 
passed  over  us  during  the  day. 

April  12th. — On  both  banks  of  the  river  there  is  a 
dense    forest    of    mahogany,    ebony,    iron    wood,    ever- 


EIGHT    HUNDRED    MILES    OF    PERIL  59 

greens  and  palms.  The  natives  came  alongside  our 
steamer  to-day  and  sold  to  the  captain  and  crew  about 
fifty  pounds  of  fresh  fish  and  eels. 

We  have  seen  their  seines  a  hundred  feet  long.  They 
drag  for  the  fish  lietween  the  sand  banks.  These  fish 
are  dried  for  future  use.  The  streams  all  abound 
with  splendid  fish. 

April  13th. —  M>riads  of  mosquitoes  kept  our  com- 
pany last  night.  Hippopotami  are  scarce  in  this  region, 
but  there  are  birds  of  all  kinds — eagles,  hawks,  crows, 
ducks,  cranes,  parrots,  guinea  fowl,  quail,  wild  pigeons, 
bats,  and  many  birds  of  beautiful  plumage.  There 
are  plenty  of  elephant,  buffalo  and  antelope;  their  tracks 
and  trails  are  all  along  the  river  bank.  In  this  dense 
and  impenetrable  forest  there  must  be  everything 
imaginable. 

April  14th. — At  12  to-day  we  cast  anchor  at  a  large 
town  and  bought  corn,  plantains,  bananas,  beans, 
peas,  peanuts,  dried  monkey  and  fish. 

April  15th. — By  a  special  Providence  we  were  de- 
livered from  a  watery  grave.  Four  different  times  the 
steamer  came  near  capsizing,  caused  by  strong  currents 
and  whirlpools.  The  Master  has  certainly  been  gf)od 
to  us  and  has  led  us  step  by  step  safely. 

April  16th. — We  were  delayed  two  hours  by  the  ship's 
anchor  getting  hung  under  the  root  of  a  tree  fifteen  feet 
under  water.  Accompanied  by  a  native,  I  went  down 
the  chain  and  tried  to  get  the  anchor  from  under  the 
root,  but  it  was  not  possible.  One  of  the  crew  tried  the 
task  alone,  but  lost  his  hold  and  was  washed  under  the 
steamer  by  the  strong  current;  but  we  saved  him  as  he 
emerged  exhausted  from  the  stern  of  the  steamer. 

All  hands  at  the  steamer's  windlass  finally  broke  the 
root.     After  three  hours'  steaming  another  strong  cur- 


60  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

rent  caught  the  bow  of  the  boat  and  turned  her  suddenly 
around  Hke  a  cork  on  the  water.  At  3  o'clock  we  an- 
chored at  a  good  landing  where  there  were  a  number  of 
large  native  canoes  moored  under  the  trees.  We  knew 
by  this  there  was  a  village  somewhere.  The  trail  was 
soon  found  and  we  went  to  the  village  a  half  mile  away 
into  the  jungle  and  found  it  to  be  large  and  walled  in. 


LUEBO  RAPIDS  IN  THE  LULUA  RIVER. 

The  only  entrance  was  by  a  small  trap-door.  We 
crawled  in  and  the  steamer's  crew  followed.  The  chief, 
"Makima,"  and  the  villagers  received  us  kindly.  The 
town  was  clean,  houses  large  and  well  built  of  bamboo 
with  two  rooms  to  many  of  them.  The  people  crowded 
around  Mr.  Lapsley  and  asked  to  see  his  hands,  and  some 
even  ventured  to  examine  them.  They  laughed  heartily 
and  enjoyed  themselves  greatly.  They  had  never  seen 
a  white  man  before. 


EIGHT    HUNDRED    MILES    OF    PERIL  61 

We  bought  plenty  of  food,  some  carved  wooden  cups, 
and  then  returned  to  the  steamer. 

April  17th. — Early  this  A.  M.  we  left  the  Kasai  river 
on  our  right  and  entered  the  Lulua  river,  which  is  narrow 
but  deep. 

The  whole  country  was  filled  with  palm  trees;  the 
hills  and  valleys  and  everywhere  beautiful  palms. 
There  were  numerous  fishing  traps  along  the  bank, 
canoes  skimming  over  the  water,  paddled  by  excited 
natives,  getting  out  of  the  way  of  the  big  steamer,  and 
plenty  of  natives  and  small  towns  on  the  right  bank. 

April  18th. — Last  night  the  crew  cut  plenty  of  good, 
hard,  dry  wood,  so  we  have  high  steam  and  the  engine 
is  hissing  and  puffing  and  the  paddle  wheel  flying  around 
at  a  great  rate. 

At  noon  we  were  all  on  the  bridge  with  the  captain  to 
see  the  Luebo  Rapids,  the  head  of  navigation  and  the 
end  of  our  present  journey. 

Captain  Galhier,  on  his  departure,  assured  us  that 
he  would  be  back  again  in  nine  months.  At  this  point 
we  are  1,200  miles  from  the  coast  and  800  miles  from 
the  nearest  doctor  or  drug  store,  but  we  were  comforted 
by  these  words,  "Lo,  I  am  with  you  alway." 


62  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 


Chapter  V. 
Beginnings  at  Luebo. 

Luebo,  April  21st. — We  pitched  our  tent  in  an  open 
space  between  the  forest  on  the  north  side  of  the  Lulua 
river.  The  natives  from  a  nearby  town  came  swarm- 
ing around  to  see  the  faces  of  the  newcomers.  They 
were  well  armed  with  bows,  arrow^s  and  spears,  but  we 
put  on  our  broadest  and  best  smiles.  A  little  excite- 
ment was  raised  and  they  all  ran  off  to  their  town. 

The  darkness  of  the  night  added  fresh  fears.  We 
could  hear  the  howling  of  the  jackals  in  the  jungle  and 
the  hooting  of  the  owls.  Mr.  Lapsley  on  his  couch  was 
sobbing  audibly  and  so  was  I.  So  far  from  home,  with 
thousands  of  people  and  yet  alone,  for  not  a  word  of 
their  dialect  could  we  speak.  About  5  o'clock  in  the 
morning  how  our  hearts  were  cheered  when  we  heard 
the  chickens  in  the  town  crowing.  We  laughed 
heartily  and  said,  "Well,  there  is  one  language  we 
understand,  for  the  roosters  crow  in  the  same  language 
as  our  American  roosters." 

Darkness  Everywhere. — Not  only  were  the  natives' 
skin  dark  and  their  minds  and  hearts,  but  there  was  not 
a  visible  light  in  all  the  town.  Mr.  Lapsley  tore  off  a 
strip  from  one  of  his  garments,  twisted  it  up  into  a  thick 
string,  placed  it  in  an  empty  corned  beef  tin,  filled  the 
tin  with  native  palm  oil  and  lighted  the  taper,  and  so 
we  had  the  first  artificial  light.  When  driver  ants, 
scorpions  or  serpents  disturb  a  native  he  reaches  up  and 
tears  off  a  strip  from  his  bamboo  hut,  sticks  it  between 


BEGINNINGS    AT    LUEBO  63 

the  smouldering  chunks  of  wood  and  gets  a  light  with 
which  to  chase  the  intruder. 

The  moon  and  star  light  is  glorious  and  is  looked  for- 
ward to  with  great  pleasure,  and  the}'  seem  to  shine  no- 
where so  brightly  and  beautifully  as  in  "Darkest  Africa." 

Beginning  to  Learn  the  Language. — Of  course, 
they  had  no  written  language.  We  went  into  the 
town  and  with  pencil  and  book  in  hand  pointed  at  ob- 
jects. For  instance,  a  goat,  and  they  called  out  the 
name,  "mbuxi";  pointing  to  a  chicken,  they  in  turn 
called  out,  "nsola";  to  a  person  they  called  out  "muntu." 
To  get  the  plural  we  stood  two  people  together,  and  they 
said  "bantu."  There  was  not  a  book  in  all  the  region. 
They  had  never  seen  a  book,  nor  a  piece  of  paper  of 
any  description. 

Their  First  Book. — Mr.  Lapsley  had  a  large  picture 
book,  and  the  natives  asked  the  loan  of  it.  They  ex- 
citedl>'  crowded  and  jostled  each  other,  eager  to  see 
and  to  touch  it.  .How  strange  it  was.  They  turned 
and  counted  evers'  leaf.  And  then  had  it  upside  down, 
for  they  saw  as  much  in  it  upside  down  as  they  did  right 
side  up.  It  was  all  the  same  to  them,  for  they  had  never 
seen  a  piece  of  paper  of  any  description  in  their  lives. 

The  First  Day  School  in  the  Kasai  Valley. — Mr. 
Lapsle\  smoothed  oil  a  small  plot  on  the  ground,  for 
we  had  no  slates  or  pencils,  and  with  a  sharpened  stick 
he  printed  the  alphabet;  and  he  had  the  little  boys  and 
girls  stand  up,  and  repeat  the  letters.  They  showed 
marked  signs  of  intelligence,  and  soon  mastered  their 
A,  B,  C's. 

The  First  Sabbath  School. — The  children,  and 
some  of  the  older  people,  too,  came  daily.  We  sat 
under  a  large  palm  tree  and  began  in  the  most  simple 
way  possible  to  teach  them  about  God  and   His  great 


64  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

love  for  everybody  in  sending  His  son  Jesus  to  save  them 
What  a  strange  story!  How  they  looked  at  each 
other,  touched  each  other,  and  laughed.  One  little 
girl,  smiling  and  intensely  interested,  asked  Mr.  Lapsley, 
"Dina  diyeye,  kabidi?"  (What  is  His  name  again?) 
And  Mr.  Lapsley,  with  a  holy  smile  upon  his  lips,  an- 
swered, "Jesus."  "What  is  his  Father's  name?"  fol- 
lowed quickly  from  the  little  inquisitor.  Mr.  Lapsley 
answered  in  their  native  tongue,  "Here  you  call  him 
Nzambi,  the  Great  Spirit,  and  in  our  country  we  call 
Him  God."  "Where  is  His  native  village?"  she  anxious- 
ly asked.  And  Mr.  Lapsley,  delighted  with  her  desire 
to  know  of  Him,  continued  to  explain. 

A  Strange  Thing. — One  morning  as  Mr.  Lapsley's 
door  blew  open  a  native  saw  a  strange  sight.  It  was 
Mr.  Lapsley  on  his  knees  by  his  couch  with  his  face  in 
his  Bible  praying.  The  native  was  anxious  to  know  of 
me  what  it  all  meant,  and  so  I  had  the  pleasure  of  ex- 
plaining to  him  that  Mr.  Lapsley,  their  friend,  was  talk- 
ing to  the  Great  King  above,  about  them.  The  native 
was  so  pleased  he  ran  back  to  the  town  and  told  it  to 
the  people.  They  had  never  heard  of  Jesus,  never. 
And  there  was  our  Lord  and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ 
standing  in  their  very  midst,  upon  two  bleeding  feet, 
with  two  hands  outstretched,  bleeding,  to  press  those 
millions  to  a  broken  heart,  and  they  had  never  heard 
of  him — never! 

The  First  Ray  of  Light. — One  day  as  Mr.  Lapsley's 
face  was  shining  with  divine  brightness,  and  as  he  was 
putting  his  whole  soul  into  his  sermon  on  God's  love,  to 
a  large  crowd  of  natives,  a  woman  who  was  the  leader 
of  the  town  dances  was  so  deeply  touched  that  she 
arose,  stretched  forth  her  long  arms  and  said  distinctly 
and  earnestly,   "Why,   Mr.   Lapsley,   if  we  had  known 


BEGINNINGS_AT   LUEBO  65 

God  loved  US  we  would  have  been  singing  to  Him." 
Mr.  Lapslcy  was  so  overcome  that  he  could  say  but 
little  more.  The  Holy  Spirit  had  made  a  deep  im- 
pression on  Malemba's  heart,  and  she  was  almost  yield- 
ing. 

The  missionary  of  Jesus  went  back  to  his  humble  hut 
with  a  heart  overflowing  wnth  gratefulness  and  joy  for 
this  first  ray  of  divine  light.  He  was  restless  and  slept 
but  little.  At  midnight  he  was  communing  with  his 
Lord  and  said,  "We  thank  Thee,  our  Heavenly  Father, 
for  this  the  first  evidence  of  Thy  favor." 

The  people  had  given  Mr.  Lapsley  the  name  "Nto- 
manjela,"  meaning  a  path-finder,  for  he  had  found  his 
way  into  their  country,  their  homes,  their  language, 
and  into  their  hearts.  Chiefs  from  distant  towns  came 
down  bringing  presents  of  chickens,  ducks,  hogs,  dogs, 
goats  and  sheep  and  made  friends  with  us. 

A  Girl  Who  Ate  Her  Mother. — One  day  one  of  Mr. 
Lapsley's  friends  came  up  and  told  him  that  some  canni- 
bals had  killed  a  woman  and  eaten  her,  and  that  this 
woman  had  a  little  child  who  had  also  eaten  of  her 
mother.  Mr.  Lapsley,  the  missionary,  was  horrified, 
and  inquired  fully  of  the  affair.  The  people  told  him 
that  the  caravan  would  pass  his  way,  and  sure  enough 
just  before  dusk  a  line  of  tired  slaves  came  marching 
slowly  by.  Mr.  Lapsley  approached  the  head  man, 
the  chief,  and  asked  him  to  halt  his  people  for  a  short 
talk.  The  chief  did  not  like  to  do  so,  but  he  stopped, 
leaned  on  his  gun  and  listened  to  hear  what  the  strange 
foreigner  had  to  say.  Mr.  Lapsley  gently  asked  why 
they  had  killed  and  eaten  one  of  the  slaves. 

The  chief  explained,  as  a  matter  of  course,  that  the 
woman's  feet  were  swollen  and  she  could  walk  no  more, 
so  they  only  did  as  they  always  do  with  those  who  are 


65  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

unable  to  march.  Mr.  Lapsley  asked  the  chief  to  give 
him  the  Httle  six-year-old  girl  and  the  chief  said  he  would 
exchange  the  girl  with  him  for  a  goat.  Mr.  Lapsley 
said  he  would  give  some  foreign  cloth  for  her.  The 
chief  agreed  to  turn  over  the  little  girl,  "N'Tumba,"  to 
Mr.  Lapsley.  So  he  called  in  a  native  woman  to  take 
charge  of  her.  This  woman  took  the  child  down  to  the 
river  and  washed  her  body  and  put  some  clothes  on  her. 
N'Tumba,  with  other  children  in  the  village,  was  taught 
the  alphabet,  attended  daily  services,  and  began  to 
show  an  intelligent  interest  in  Sunday-school. 

Buying  Dwelling  Houses. — Our  tent  was  so  small 
and  hot  that  we  decided  to  buy  two  native  bamboo 
houses.  They  were  built  of  poles,  the  sides  of  large 
bamboo  mats,  roofed  with  long  palm  leaves  sewn  to- 
gether and  put  on  over-lapping  very  much  as  shingles. 
These  houses  resemble  very  much  tiny  cottages  eleven 
feet  square  and  nine  feet  high.  The  owner  of  the  house 
started  with  a  very  high  price  and  we  with  a  very  low 
bid.  He  came  down  and  we  advanced  in  our  offer. 
Soon  we  agreed  on  a  price,  a  straw  was  picked  up  by  the 
owner  and  handed  to  us,  he  saying,  "Chubika."  The 
straw  was  broken  between  our  fingers,  he  spat  on  his 
end  of  the  straw  and  threw  it  over  his  shoulder  and  told 
us  to  do  the  same  with  the  end  we  had.  The  bargain 
thereby  was  sealed.  We  counted  out  our  native  money, 
cowrie  shells,  and  paid  for  the  house.  And  when  we  had 
calculated  it  in  American  money,  we  found  that  we 
had  paid  50  cents  for  each  house.  Their  houses  are 
built  in  sections  and  we  soon  had  them  taken  down  and 
moved  on  our  land  and  reconstructed. 

We  bought  and  planted  palms,  bananas  and  plantain 
trees,  and  in  front  of  our  houses  had  the  way  nicely  swept. 
In  the  pleasant  evening  we  would  take  our  promenade 


BEGINNINGS   AT   LUEBO  67 

up  and  down  this  beautiful  walk.     We  called  it  Penn- 
sylvania avenue. 

With  the  help  of  the  natives  we  began  to  clear  the 
forest,  take  up  the  stumps,  and  clean  up  generally.  A 
chicken,  parrot  and  monkey  house  was  soon  built,"  for 
there  were  many  of  these  brought  to  us  for  sale,  and  they 
were  all  good  for  food. 

We  built  a  shed  in  the  middle  of  the  compound  to 
be  used  for  dining  room,  sitting  room,  doctor's  office 
and  di^'ine  service. 

We  made  daily  visits  to  the  village,  mingling  with  the 
people,  learning  their  language  and  curious  customs. 
They  all  wore  their  native  cloth  ranging  from  the  waist 
to  their  knees.  They  were  given  to  hearty  laughter, 
joking,  playing  games  and  running  races.  Many  of 
them  cultivated  the  ground,  raising  manioc,  peas, 
beans  and  tobacco,  and  others  spent  their  time  hunting 
and  fishing.  Every  night  there  was  a  dance  held  in  the 
big  square  in  the  center  of  the  town.  The  noise  from 
their  tom-toms,  ivory  horns  and  singing  filled  the  air 
until  midnight. 

Mr.  Lapsley  as  a  Doctor.— We  found  many  of  the 
people  suffering  from  various  diseases.  Mr.  Lapsley 
in  visiting  the  towns  always  carried  along  his  medicine 
case  and  dispensed  medicines  to  the  sick.  To  our  sur- 
prise they  took  calomel,  jalap,  Livingstone  rousers  and 
compound  cathartics  without  hesitating;  and  as  for 
castor  oil,  they  would  lick  the  spoon  and  call  for  more. 
In  two  months  the  medicine  case  began  to  get  low. 
Honestly,  those  people  would  swallow  pills  just  as  long 
as  you  would  deal  them  out.  Mr.  Lapsley  ingratiated 
himself  into  the  hearts  of  the  Bakete  early. 

A  Grateful  GirL  -Mr.  Lapsley  never  charged  the 
people  for  medical  attention,  but  man>-  of  them  showed 


68  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

their  appreciation  of  his  kindness  by  giving  him  Httle 
presents  of  peanuts,  pineapples,  bananas,  sugar  cane,  etc. 

But  I  never  saw  him  more  pleased  than  when  a  little 
laughing  girl  came  stepping  up  and  handed  him  a  small 
string  of  sun  perch.  Mr.  Lapsley  had  been  her  doctor 
when  she  was  down  with  fever. 

Moving  into  the  Moonlight. — Before  the  chickens 
began  to  crow  for  dawn  I  was  alarmed  by  a  band  of  big, 
broad-headed,  determined  driver  ants.  They  filled 
the  cabin,  the  bed,  the  yard.  There  were  millions. 
They  were  in  my  head,  my  eyes,  my  nose,  and  pulling 
at  my  toes.  When  I  found  it  was  not  a  dream,  I  didn't 
tarry   long. 

Mr.  Lapsley  and  some  of  our  native  boys  came  with 
torches  of  fire  to  my  rescue.  They  are  the  largest  and 
the  most  ferocious  ant  we  know  anything  about.  In 
an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  they  can  kill  any  goat, 
chicken,  duck,  hog  or  dog  on  the  place.  In  a  few  hours 
there  is  not  a  rat,  mouse,  snake,  centipede,  spider  or 
scorpion  in  your  house,  as  they  are  chased,  killed  and 
carried  away.  We  built  a  fire  and  slept  inside  of  the 
circle  until  day.  W^e  were  told  by  the  natives  that 
when  there  are  triplets  born  in  a  family  it  is  considered 
very  bad  luck,  so  one  of  the  babies  is  taken  by  the  witch 
doctor  and  put  into  a  deep  hole  where  these  ants  live 
and  the  child  is  soon  scented  by  them  and  eaten. 

Big  Black  Ants. — W^e  scraped  the  acquaintance  of 
these  soldier  ants  by  being  severely  bitten  and  stung. 
They  are  near  the  size  of  a  wasp  and  use  both  ends  with 
splendid  effect.  They  live  deep  down  in  the  ground 
and  come  out  of  a  smoothly  cut  hole,  following  each 
other  single  file  and  when  they  reach  a  damp  spot  in  the 
forest  and  hear  the  white  ants  cutting  away  on  the  fallen 
leaves,  the  leader  stops  until  all  the  soldiers  have  caught 


BEGINNINGS   AT   LUEBO  69 

up.  A  circk'  is  formed,  a  peculiar  hissing  is  the  order 
to  raid,  and  down  under  the  leaves  they  dart,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  they  come  out  with  their  pinchers  filled  with 
white  ants.  The  line,  without  the  least  excitement,  is 
again  formed  and  they  march  back  home  stepping  high 
with  their  prey. 

White  Ants. — These  small  ants  have  a  blue  head  and 
a  white,  soft  body  and  are  everywhere  in  the  ground  and 
on  the  surface.  They  live  by  eating  dead  wood  and 
leaves. 

We  got  rid  of  the  driver  ants  by  keeping  up  a  big  fire 
in  their  cave  for  a  week.  We  dug  up  the  homes  of  the 
big  black  ants  and  they  moved  off.  But  there  was  no 
way  possible  to  rid  the  place  of  the  billions  of  white 
ants.  They  ate  our  dry  goods  boxes,  our  books,  our 
trunks,  our  beds,  shoes,  hats  and  clothing.  The  natives 
make  holes  in  the  ground,  entrapping  the  ants  and  use 
them  for  food. 

Red  Ants. — These  ants  are  the  size  of  yellow  jackets 
and  look  like  them,  and  are  smart  with  their  nippers  and 
tails.  They  live  in  nests  in  trees  like  the  yellow  jacket. 
These  ants  are  caught  by  the  witch  doctors,  crushed,  and 
the  liquid  squeezed  into  the  e>'es  and  nostrils  of  the  people 
who  suffer  from  sore  eyes  or  bad  colds,  and  the  pulp 
is  eaten  by  the  patient. 

Many  months  passed  away  while  we  were  hunting, 
fishing,  clearing  the  land,  learning  the  language,  teach- 
ing school  and  receiving  visits  from  chiefs  and  people. 

Idols  and  Images. — Indoors  and  out  were  numerous 
idols.  Those  inside  guarded  and  cared  for  the  occupants 
by  night,  and  those  outside  kept  their  eyes  on  common 
enemies  and  saw  that  no  one  with  an  evil  spirit  entered 
the  door. 

Out  of  a  limb  of  a  tree  these  idols  are  carved  into  an 


70  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

image  having  eyes,  nose,  mouth  and  hands.  They  are 
stuck  in  the  ground  and  often  from  the  nature  of  the 
tree  sprout  and  grow.  About  300  yards  from  the  town 
where  the  paths  part  a  very  large  idol  seven  or  eight 
feet  high  is  planted  to  break  the  power  of  any  one  enter- 
ing the  town  with  evil  intent. 

We  saw  a  father  and  mother  sitting  under  the  eave  of 
their  house  weeping  over  a  very  sick  child.  Soon  the 
witch  doctor  appeared  carrying  a  chicken  in  his  arm, 
which  he  rubbed  over  the  naked  body  of  the  child.  He 
then  went  to  one  of  these  images  and  holding  the  chicken 
over  the  image  broke  the  legs  of  the  chicken,  then  its 
back,  and  wringing  its  neck  off  dropped  the  blood  on  the 
image,  then  on  the  child's  face  and  body.  The  doctor 
left  the  chicken  with  instructions  that  the  parents 
should  eat  it.  In  this  way  people  are  healed,  as  they 
believe,  of  their  diseases. 

Beautiful  Brown  Babies. — It  was  so  strange  to  us 
that  the  babies  were  all  born  white,  but  in  a  couple  of 
weeks  they  showed  their  substantial  color. 

When  the  baby  is  announced  to  the  town  by  an  at- 
tendant it  is  the  signal  for  the  many  friends  of  the  family 
to  hurry  with  pots  of  cold  water  and  drench  baby  and 
mother,  half  drowning  them.  There  is  much  shouting 
and  laughing,  and  many  clay  pots  are  broken  during 
this  first  degree  of  annunciation.  Palm  oil  is  soon  on 
hand  and  baby  gets  a  greasy  bath;  a  big  break-down 
dance  follows,  and  then  food  is  served  by  the  father  to 
all  the  dancers. 

In  less  than  a  week  the  baby's  regular  meal  is  sup- 
plemented by  the  mother's  forcing  with  her  finger  s 
soft  bananas  and  corn  meal  mush  down  the  little  one's 
throat.  There  is  much  kicking,  struggling  and  strangling, 


BEGINNINGS   AT   LUEBO  71 

but  the  mother  assists  baby  by  pouring  in  water  and 
giving  him  a  good  shaking. 

Fierce  Feuds  and  Fights. — Time  and  time  again 
our  quiet  was  disturbed  by  the  blowing  of  the  ivory 
horns  and  the  beating  of  their  war  tom-toms.  On  in- 
quiry we  found  that  one  of  their  women  had  been  stolen 
by  people  from  another  town.  Our  villagers  were  a 
quickly  excited  people  and  loved  to  fight.  Men  going 
only  a  few  hundred  >ards  from  their  town  were  always 
armed  with  a  quiver  of  arrows,  bow  and  spear.  Often 
Mr.  Lapsley  was  called  to  care  for  the  wounded.  The 
witch  doctors  would  mark  the  wounded  with  different 
colors  of  paint,  but  the  people  had  learned  that  Mr. 
Lapsley's  medicine  was  more  effective.  We  have  seen 
our  town  in  bloody  conflict  over  a  mere  trifle. 

Children  of  Nature. — They  had  two  general  seasons, 
the  rainy  and  the  dry,  "muxihu,  mvulu."  Eight 
months  comprised  the  rainy  season,  and  four  the  dry. 
It  did  not  rain  incessantly,  nor  was  it  always  dry,  and 
it  never  rained  every  day,  and  seldom  all  day. 

These  seasons  were  divided  into  minor  seasons,  as 
windy,  thunder,  caterpillar,  and  cricket  seasons.  There 
was  a  period  when  the  wind  l)lew  a  breeze  from  the  south, 
a  time  when  the  thunder  rolled  out  its  heaviest  peals,  a 
time  when  all  natives  gathered  caterpillars  to  be  dried 
for  food,  and  a  time  for  the  coming  of  the  delicious 
cricket.  This  cricket  was  four  limes  as  large  as  the 
American  one  and  sang  four  times  as  loud  and  long. 
They  live  in  the  ground  and  come  out  at  night  to  cut  and 
eat  grass,  and  the  natives,  with  torches,  capture  and 
roast  them  for  food. 

We  asked  men  for  dates,  or  of  their  ages,  and  they 
could  never  tell  us,  but  would  mention  an  occurrence 
which   took  place  when   the  stars  fougiit    together  and 


72  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

fell  from  the  elements,  or  when  a  certain  king  was  killed. 

The  new  moon  was  always  looked  forward  to  with 
great  interest,  for  it  foretold  by  the  way  it  lay  whether 
there  was  to  be  peace  or  war.  A  man  going  on  a  journey 
would  say  to  his  family  that  he  would  be  back  in  so 
many  moons,  and  to  keep  them  accurately  he  would 
tie  a  knot  at  the  appearance  of  each  moon  in  a  string 
which  he  wore  around  his  neck.  Their  gardens  and 
fields  were  planted  on  the  light  and  dark  of  the  moon, 
and  children  born  under  certain  moons  were  fortunate 
or  unfortunate. 

It  seemed  to  us  there  was  no  place  in  all  the  world 
where  the  moon  shone  so  brightly  and  so  beautifully 
as  at  Luebo,  Central  Africa. 

The  native  week  was  divided  up  into  three  working 
days — "Miyiya,  Nkela,  and  Ntoenkela."  Every  fourth 
day  no  one  on  account  of  the  spirits  went  a  long  journey, 
hunted,  fished  or  worked  in  his  fields.  The  day  was 
spent  in  sweeping  around  their  houses,  mending  their 
nets,  making  mats,  weaving  cloth,  and  holding  court. 
Court  was  held  in  the  square  of  the  town  under  a  large 
shed.  The  people  had  their  judges,  jurors,  lawyers 
and  officers  of  the  town,  but  no  written  laws,  and  all 
evil-doers  were  punished  by  fines.  A  man  that  was 
found  guilty  of  murder  was  forced  to  hang  himself. 

There  are  many,  many  kinds  of  birds  of  the  air,  all 
known  and  called  by  name,  and  the  food  they  eat,  their 
mode  of  building  nests,-  etc.,  were  familiar  to  the  people. 
They  knew  the  customs  and  habits  of  the  elephant, 
hippopotamus,  buffalo,  leopard,  hyena,  jackal,  wild- 
cat, monkey,  mouse,  and  every  animal  which  roams  the 
great  forest  and  plain,  from  the  thirty-foot  boa-con- 
strictor to  a  tiny  tulu  their  names  and  nature  wx^re 
well  known. 


BEGINNINGS   AT    LUEBO  73 

The  little  children  could  tell  >()U  the  native  names  of 
all  insects,  such  as  caterpillars,  crickets,  cockroaches, 
grasshoppers,  locusts,  mantis,  honey  bees,  bumble  bees, 
wasps,  hornets,  yellow  jackets,  goliath  beetles,  stage 
beetles,  ants,  etc. 

The  many  species  of  fish,  eels  and  terrapins  were  on 
the  end  of  their  tongues,  and  these  were  all  gathered 
and  used  for  food.  All  the  trees  of  the  forest  and  plain, 
the  flowers,  fruits,  nuts  and  berries  were  known  and 
named.  Roots  which  are  good  for  all  maladies  were 
not  only  known  to  the  medicine  man,  but  the  common 
people  knew  them  also. 

A  Rain-Maker. — We  saw  a  rain-maker  in  Bena 
Kasenga  one  day  dressed  up  in  leopard  skins  and  his 
hair  filled  with  hawk  feathers,  and  in  his  hand  were  a 
buffalo  tail  and  a  sprig  of  a  tree.  This  wild  man  claimed 
that  he  could  bring  rain,  stop  rain,  quiet  storms,  and  pro- 
tect the  people  from  lightning. 

A  Tribal  Ordinance. — Any  animal  killed  by  man, 
beast  or  lightning  shall  not  be  eaten  until  its  hair  has 
been  singed  off  by  fire.  By  this  process,  as  they  ex- 
plained, no  communication  can  be  sent  to  other  animals 
of  its  final  fate. 

An  Economical  People. — The  people  were  not 
wasteful!  Every  dead  sheep,  goat,  hog,  duck  or  chicken 
was  eaten.  Dead  elephants  have  been  found  in  the 
forest  and  over  ripe,  the  pieces  gotten  together  in  bas- 
kets, carried  to  the  town,  cooked  and  eaten.  We  saw 
men  put  out  rapidly  in  their  canoes  after  a  large  dead 
iloating  fish. 

With  a  Caravan  Going  South. — It  was  decided 
that  I  would  take  a  two  months'  journey  into  the  Bena 
Biomba  countr>'  south  of  Luebo  as  far  as  Wissman  Falls, 
so  with  a  well  equipped  caravan  we  journeyed  south. 


74  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

passing  and  sleeping  in  many  villages,  learning  the  dia- 
lect of  a  strange  and  strong  people.  A  lake  was  dis- 
covered; also  new  streams,  and  some  large  game  was 
killed.  We  made  friends  and  treaties  with  chiefs,  and 
told  the  people  that  at  some  future  day  we  would  send 
them  teachers.  We  saw  native  cows  for  the  first  time. 
At  one  of  the  markets,  which  was  held  in  the  open,  the 
people  were  cutting  up  a  twenty-five-foot  boa-constrictor 
into  round  roasts  for  sale.  We  saw  many  tusks  of 
ivory,  each  of  which  would  have  brought  from  two  to 
four  hundred  dollars  in  a  European  market.  We 
bought  chickens  for  one  or  two  teaspoonfuls  of  small 
white  or  blue  beads. 

During  the  sixty-eight  days'  travel  I  found  the  coun- 
try to  be  rolling  land  and  alluvial  soil  thickly  populated 
with  good,  industrious  people.  On  my  return  to 
Luebo  I  was  received  warmly  by  Mr.  Lapsley  and  the 
natives  and  a  banquet  followed  the  same  night. 

MENU. 

Chicken  Broth. 

Stewed  Fowl.  Roast  Goat.  Manioc  Chips. 

Native  Pumpkin. 

Native  Egg  Plant.  Greens. 

Bananas.  Peanuts.  Pineapple.  Plantains. 

and 
Tea,  with  Sugar. 

Quaint  Cooking. — During  my  absence  Mr.  Lapsley 
had  improved  on  the  cooking  plant  which  had  been 
formally  installed  under  a  palm  tree.  It  consisted  of  a 
well  built  shed  10x10  covered  with  long  palm  leaves 
sewn  together  to  keep  out  the  sun  and  rain.  Very 
solid  ant  mounds,  the  size  and  shape  of  a  man's  head, 
were  used  as  spiders,  and  on  three  of  these  the  boy  cook, 


BEGINNIN  ;S    AT    LUEBO  75 

who  was  a  mute,  placed  a  pot  or  pan.  To  cook  several 
things  at  once  more  ant  mounds  were  installed.  The 
cook  always  sat  or  kneeled  on  the  dirt  floor  when  pre- 
paring meals. 

Coney  Island. — Mr.  Lapsley  had  found  a  nice  new 
bathing  spot  a  half  mile  above  our  old  rocky  landing. 
We  would  swim  from  the  main  land  across  to  a  large 
sand  bank  near  the  Luebo  Rapids,  and  on  the  warm 
sand  would  enjoy  hand  over  hand  and  leap  frog  and 
run  races. 

His  Last  Leap. — Ngoya,  who  was  a  good  swimmer, 
left  his  clothing  on  the  high  bank  and  made  a  dive  for 
the  deep  w^ater.  It  was  nothing  out  of  the  ordinary 
and  but  little  attention  was  given  to  the  performance. 
After  a  few  moments,  when  Ngoya  did  not  appear,  we 
became  alarmed.  We  watched  and  wished  for  the 
best,  but  there  were  only  the  distant  ripples.  With  a 
canoe  and  a  long  bamboo  pole  we  searched  thoroughly. 
Could  a  crocodile  have  taken  him  off  so  quickly?  Did 
his  head  strike  a  stone,  or  a  snag?  His  clothing  was 
carried  to  his  wife,  and  there  weeping  and  wailing 
soon  followed.  The  unfortunate  man  was  heard  of  no 
more. 

Six  Unseen  Sights. — The  Bakete,  after  having  seen 
Mr.  Lapsle>'s  face  and  hands  and  making  close  ex- 
amination of  both,  were  anxious  to  see  his  feet.  They 
begged  and  pleaded  vvith  him — men,  women  and  chil- 
dren— to  pull  off  his  shoes  and  socks,  his  socks  they  called 
bags,  that  they  might  get  one  peep  at  least.  To  satisfy 
the  crowd  Mr.  Lapsley  exhibited  his  small,  clean,  white 
feet.  The  eyes  of  the  people  opened  wide.  '1  hey 
laughed,  talked  and  pulled  at  each  other,  so  pleased. 
Then  the>'  got  on  their  knees  and  begun  to  handle  tliem. 
Mr.  Lapsley  was  ticklish  under  the  bottoms  of  his  feet 


76  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

and  this  caused  him  to  join  in  with  the  admirers  in  a 
hearty  laugh.  This  exhibition  had  to  be  repeated  for 
the  newcomers  a  number  of  times  daily. 

Matches  were  a  wonderful  fire  producer.  I  have 
many  times  bought  a  chicken  for  a  box  of  matches. 
It  takes  about  two  minutes  to  get  fire  out  of  two  dried 
sticks  in  the  native  way,  but  with  one  stroke  of  a  match 
on  the  box  you  have  fire.  They  were  a  great  novelty 
to   the  people. 

The  people  were  mightily  afraid  of  guns.     When  you 
would  raise  your  gun  to  shoot  a  passing  eagle  or  hawk, 
they  would  scatter  in  all  directions.     Some  were  brave 
^<t         enough  later  on  to  examine  our  guns. 

0,  The  people  in  standing  around  would  see  Mr.  Lapsley 
writing.  They  would  stretch  their  necks,  come  closer, 
watch  the  movement  of  his  hand,  see  the  little  marks 
he  would  make.  They  inquired  of  him  what  he  was 
doing,  and  he  explained  that  he  was  putting  down  his 
thoughts.  It  was  a  wonderful  thing  to  them  that  you 
could  mark  down  your  thoughts  and  they  would  stay 
there.  Sometimes  Mr.  Lapsley  would  send  me  a  note 
by  one  of  the  crowd,  and  when  I  would  tell  them  what 
he  had  said,  they  were  simply  dumbfounded.  To  prove 
the  truthfulness  and  usefulness  of  the  "mukanda" 
(book),  Mr.  Lapsley  would  buy  something  in  the  town 
and  send  the  owner  of  the  article  to  me  at  the  mission 
with  a  note  to  pay  a  hundred,  or  two  hundred  cowries, 
\  as  the  case  might  be.  I  would  count  out  the  cowrie 
j  shells  and  pay  the  debt.  Well,  it  worked  like  a  charm 
and  then  the  people  asked  us  to  teach  them  how  to 
write  books. 

The  people  when  dressing  their  hair  for  a  funeral, 
dance  or  wedding  would  pour  water  in  a  small  clay  pot 
and  use  this  for  a  looking  glass,  so  when  we  showed  them 


BEGINNINGS   AT  LUEBO  77 

our  looking  glass  a  foot  long  they  went  wild  and  offered 
goats,  sheep,  ducks,  dogs,  anything,  if  we  would  let 
them  have  that  great  "Lumunia"  looking  glass.  And 
later  on  came  the  wonder  of  the  world — a  camera.  A 
small  black  box  with  a  real  eye  in  the  center,  which  could 
catch  them,  going  or  coming,  walking  or  talking,  fussing 
or  fighting.  With  them  it  was  an  "nkissi,"  a  spirit, 
a  thing  to  be  feared,  and  an  evil  eye,  to  fly  from  and  hide. 

Mr.  Lapsley's  gold  watch  always  drew  a  crowd.  With 
their  mouths  and  eyes  wide  open  they  pushed  and  jostled 
each  other  to  get  a  peep  at  the  wonderful,  mysterious, 
moving  thing.  When  the  lid  flew  open,  how  they  would  v 
jump  back  and  laugh!  How  carefully  and  wisely,  as 
they  turned  their  heads  from  side  to  side,  they  watched 
the  little  hand  running  at  full  speed.  Then  the  back 
was  opened  and  they  saw  a  little  wheel,  a  forward  and 
backward  movement.  They  then  asked  us  to  show 
them  the  little  men  down  inside  who  do  the  pushing. 
Mr.  Lapsley  tried  to  explain,  but  it  was  useless,  for  they 
believed  there  were  little  people  down  inside  somewhere 
to  make  the  thing  talk  and  walk. 

With  the  Bakete  even  the  sun  didn't  go  of  itself,  but 
there  were  great  big  strong  men  who  caught  it  as  it 
descended,  put  it  into  a  great  canoe,  and  pulled  it  across 
the  deep  waters,  and  early  every  morning  with  their 
combined  strength  started  it  again  on  its  journey. 

Mr.  Lapsley  tried  to  explain  to  them  that  buttons, 
beads,  looking  glasses,  guns,  etc.,  were  not  thrown  up 
on  the  shore  by  the  great  spirit  in  the  foreign  country, 
as  they  believed,  but  were  really  made  by  men. 

A  Traveling  Minstrel — You  may  be  surprised  to 
know   that   in    that   most  isolated    part    of    the    planet    t 
there    were     "traveling    minstrels."      They    were    the 
Baxilanc  tribe  south  of  Luebo.     There  was  a  piano,  a      C  ' 


78  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

narrow  table-like  frame  with  strips  of  a  special  kind  of 
wood  laid  across  it  and  gourds  of  different  sizes  tied 
under  these  strips  to  produce  different  sounds.  Two 
men  with  sticks  like  bass  drumsticks  performed  on  it. 
Then  there  were  the  big  drum,  the  head  made  of  goat's 
skin,  and  two  small  drums,  with  two  small  men  beat- 
ing them.     Then  came  the  little  and  big  ivory  horns. 

None  of  the  ninety  members  of  the  minstrel  had  to 
burn  cork,  for  they  were  already  and  naturally  made  up 
when  they  came  to  town.  They  danced  in  the  open 
square,  forming  a  great  circle.  Such  jumping,  twist- 
ing and  cake-walking!  When  any  of  the  spectators  were 
pleased  with  a  dancer  they  went  up  and  placed  cowrie 
shells,  Congo  money,  in  their  hands,  and  in  this  way  they 
were  paid. 


MR.    LAPSLEY's    last   JOURNEY  79 

Chapter  VI. 
Mr.  Lapsley's  Last  Journey. 

Mr.  Lapsley  Makes  a  Great  Journey. — With  tent, 
traveling  bed  and  cooking  utensils  and  a  caravan  of 
men,  Mr.  Lapsley  began  his  march  into  a  new  country 
lying  southeast  of  Luebo.  His  marches  were  from  ten 
to  thirty  miles  a  day,  according  to  the  condition  of  the 
trail  and  the  business  he  transacted  with  the  chiefs  and 
people  en  route. 

The  country  traversed  was  mountainous  and  well 
wooded  and  watered.  Day  by  day  he  marched,  always 
pitching  his  tent  in  some  friendly  village.  He  found 
the  people  to  be  of  the  Lulua  tribe  and  also  found  some 
Baluba  living  far  away  south.  The  people  on  the  whole 
were  docile  and  received  him  kindly,  making  him  presents 
of  goats,  chickens,  hogs  and  dogs. 

The  houses  of  the  people  were  small,  with  conical- 
shaped  roofs,  the  walls  being  made  of  large  strips  of 
bark  from  the  trees  and  the  roofs  thatched  with  grass. 
The  people  were  very  scantily  clad,  many  wearing  only 
monkey  skins. 

In  all  the  towns  Mr.  Lapsley  told  them  the  story  of 
the  cross.  The  people  listened  with  marked  attention. 
The  story  was  a  strange  one  to  them.  He  was  asked 
over  and  over  by  the  Lulua  people  to  make  his  home  in 
their  towns,  sing  to  them,  and  teach  them  more  about 
his  God. 

Far  away  south  Mr.  Lapsley  met  and  made  friends 
with  a  big  chief,  who  gave  him  a  present  of  two  men,  a 


80  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

little  girl  and  a  number  of  goats  and  sheep.  Another 
chief  gave  him  four  hogs,  some  dogs  and  much  food. 

After  Mr.  Lapsley's  extended  trip  far  south  and  his 
careful  and  valuable  investigation  of  people  and  coun- 
try, he  turned  his  face  toward  Luebo.  All  along  the 
route  natives  who  had  fallen  in  love  with  him  joined  the 
caravan.  In  many  cases  men  with  their  wives,  chil- 
dren, goats,  sheep  and  all  their  belongings  followed  him 
to  Luebo. 

How  happy  we  were  when  a  runner  announced  Mr. 
Lapsley's  arrival.  With  the  big  ivory  horn  blowing 
and  the  drums  beating,  we  ran  down  the  banana  walk 
to  greet  and  welcome  him  home.  He  was  tired,  worn, 
and  weary,  and  walked  with  a  limp.  He  had  been 
scorched  by  the  sun,  beaten  by  the  rains,  and  torn  by 
the  thorns;  his  coat  was  in  tatters,  and  his  last  pair  of 
shoes  worn  into  holes;  but  through  all  of  this  he  had  that 
heaven-born  smile  as  he  said,  "Sheppard,  how  are  you? 
I  am  glad  to  see  you."  Soon  we  had  him  seated  in 
front  of  his  cabin  in  a  camp  chair  and  a  pan  of  cool  fresh 
water  for  his  tanned  face  and  tired  feet. 

Our  cook  killed  a  goat  and  a  feast  of  the  very  best 
we  had  followed.  I  could  bear  the  burning  sand  with 
bare  feet  easier  and  safer  than  Mr.  Lapsley  could,  so 
the  last  pair  of  shoes  of  the  camp,  though  two  sizes  too 
large,  were  brought  forth  and  put  on  his  feet.  But  I 
could  not  refrain  from  withdrawing  to  the  bushes 
nearby  and  there  in  the  quiet  I  thought  of  the  beautiful 
Southern  home  on  the  hillside  in  Anniston,  Ala.,  of  the 
clothing,  food  and  comfort  in  that  home,  of  the  dear 
hearts  of  that  home  who  so  loved  Mr.  Lapsley,  and  I 
broke  down  in  spirit  and  wept. 

An  African  Fever. — Mr.  Lapsley  told  me  the  even- 
ing of  his  arrival  that  every  bone  in  his  body  ached,  and 


MR.    LAPSLEY's    last    JOURNEY  81 

that  he  felt  as  though  he  had  been  beaten  with  rods. 
A  fever  soon  followed.  I  nursed  him  carefully  and 
tenderly  through  it  and  he  was  much  improved  in  color 
from  the  purges  and  quinine. 

Tales  of  the  Lulua  Trail. — Mr.  Lapsley  entertained 
the  villagers  and  me  for.  hours  with  the  story  of  his 
journeyings  amongst  the  Lulua  and  Baluba  tribes;  of 
how  he  followed  the  trails,  crossed  the  streams,  saw  and 
shot  game,  made  friends  with  chiefs  and  people,  preached 
the  gospel  to  thousands  of  half-clad  natives,  and  sang  for 
them;  and  of  how  they  hung  upon  his  words  and  begged 
him  to  make  his  home  in  their  towns.  He  told  us  about 
their  idols,  their  fetiches,  their  superstitions,  and  how 
no  one  died  a  natural  death,  for  in  the  minds  of  the  peo- 
ple someone  had  bewitched  the  unfortunate;  of  how 
people  were  accused  of  witchcraft — men  and  women; 
of  how  they  were  tested  by  the  witch  doctors  with  a 
well  loaded  flint-lock  gun,  and  if  the  gun  did  not  fire 
when  the  trigger  was  pulled  the  person  was  not  guilty, 
but  if  it  did  go  off  the  accused  was  shot  to  death  and 
therefore   guilty. 

Our  First  Colony. — The  Lulua  and  Baluba  who  had 
followed  Mr.  Lapsley  asked  for  a  site  on  which  to  build 
their  future  town.  He  pointed  out  a  large  unoccupied 
section  l>'ing  to  our  left,  and  the  work  of  cutting  down 
trees,  digging  up  stumps  and  building  houses  com- 
menced at  once.  In  a  short  while  others  hearing  a  good 
report  of  Luebo  and  the  missionaries,  followed  and  set- 
tled around  us.  People  of  a  far  interior  tribe,  speaking 
a  different  dialect  and  calling  themselves  Bakuba,  came 
also.  They  mentioned  that  their  king  ruled  over  all 
the  tribes  of  the  country.  We  were  interested  in  their 
apparent  superiority  in  physique,  manners,  dress  and 
dialect.     We  asked  to  be  allowed  to  accompany  them 


N 


82  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

to  their  country  and  king,  but  they  said  it  was  impossible- 
their  king  would  never  allow  a  foreigner  to  come  into 
the  interior.  Mr.  Lapsley's  faith  was  so  strong  that 
he  believed  that  the  Lord  would  protect  us  and  that  we 
would  enter. 

Mr.  Lapsley's  Return  to  the  Coast. — In  these  nine 
months  we  both  had  suffered  a  number  of  attacks  of 
fever.  The  steamboat  brought  a  letter  from  the  Bel- 
gian Governor  General  calling  Mr.  Lapsley  to  come  down 
to  the  capital  on  important  business.  The  beach  was 
crowded  with  natives  to  wave  him  good-bye.  The 
stranger  who  had  come  to  their  land  on  a  strange  errand 
was  now  known  and  loved. 

New  Buildings  Erected. — After  some  days  I  called 
the  natives  together  and  laid  before  them  plans  of  two 
large  new  houses.  They  accepted  and  were  soon  off 
to  the  forest  to  bring  the  necessary  material,  and  in  less 
than  two  months  the  houses  were  completed.  We  built 
outhouses,  fences,  made  gardens,  and  cut  a  large  way 
through  the  forest,  connecting  mission  and  native 
village.  The  number  in  school  and  church  attendance 
grew. 

Now  and  then  for  a  change  we  would  go  elephant  or 
buffalo  hunting.  Monkeys  were  also  plentiful  in  the 
forest  just  back  of  the  garden,  and  food  of  a  great  variety 
was  plentiful. 

They  Were  Superstitious. — One  midnight  I  was 
startled.  The  village  was  in  an  uproar.  When  I  ar- 
rived they  informed  me  that  one  of  the  men  had  died, 
and  it  was  the  custom  for  everybody  to  cry  aloud,  to 
wail,  to  make  tears  come  anyhow.  Any  person  not 
showing  signs  of  grief  is  suspected,  and  after  the  funeral 
is  accused  of  witchcraft  and  must  drink  poison  as  a 
test.     If  they  vomit  the  poison  they  are  by  the  witch 


MR.    LAPSLEY's    last   JOURNEY  83 

doctors  pronounced  innocent,  but  if  they  do  not  vomit 
they  die  and  therefore  are  guilt}'. 

The  twitching  of  the  eye,  the  itching  of  the  hand,  the 
flying  of  a  crow  across  one's  house,  the  hooting  of  the 
owl  in  the  jungle,  a  snake  crossing  one's  trail,  were 
all  bad  signs.  When  there  was  an  obstruction  in  the 
trail  they  would  never  part,  but  follow  each  other  on 
the  same  side,  and  if  one  stumped  his  toe  and  it  bled 
freely,  he  would  return,  deferring  his  journey. 

They  called  my  attention  one  evening  to  the  new 
moon.  It  stood  very  much  on  the  point.  They  said, 
"There  is  going  to  be  war,  and  we  are  going  to  sharpen 
our  knives  and  spears  and  dip  afresh  our  arrows  in 
poison."  I  threw  a  clod  of  dirt  at  a  man  one  day  in  fun. 
He  was  indignant,  saying  it  meant  very  bad  luck  to  him. 
Dreams  are  serious  things  and  are  always  taken  to  the 
witch  doctors  for  interpretation.  One  of  our  villagers 
was  killed  by  an  elephant.  They  believed  an  enemy 
sent  the  elephant.  A  leopard  one  clay  tore  the  face  and 
shoulders  of  "Mimanini"  fearfully.  The  witch  doctors 
hunted  down  an  innocent  neighbor  and  accused  him  of 
sending  the  leopard. 

No  Deaths  Were  from  Natural  Causes. — Thunder, 
lightning    and    storm    were   sent    by    the   Great    Spirit 
"Nzambi,"  who  hates  them.     Truly  the  souls  of  these   r 
people   were   enveloped    in    the   blackness   of   an   awful 
midnight. 

The  people  were  always  asking  of  Mr.  Lapsley's 
return  to  them.  I  comforted  them  by  saying  that  he 
would  be  cf)ming  soon,  for  many  moons  had  passed 
away,  and  I  longed  for  his  return.  I  had  studied  the 
new  dialect  of  the  Bakuba  and  had  madt  every  prepara- 
tion for  our  expedition  into  the  "I'orbidden  Land"  of 
King  Lukenga. 


84  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

Sad  News. — At  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  a  native 
reported  having  sighted  smoke  in  the  sky  down  the 
river.  "Chuck  a  chuck!"  "Chuck  a  chuck!"  (Steam- 
boat! Steamboat!)  cried  the  people,  and  their  hands, 
legs  and  mouths  got  busy.  "Ntomanjela  waduadua, 
Ntomanjela  waduadua!"  (Mr.  Lapsley  is  coming; 
Mr.  Lapsley  is  coming.)  Our  hearts  leaped  for  joy.  I 
ran  with  the  natives  down  to  the  river  bank  as  the 
steamer  hove  in  sight  around  the  point.  On  she  came 
steaming  up  the  strong  current.  She  touched  shore 
and  made  fast.  I  looked  on  deck,  but  did  not  see  Mr. 
Lapsley.  The  captain  beckoned  me  to  come  on  board. 
He  handed  me  a  letter  and  it  told  the  tale — 

"Matadi,  Congo  Independent  State, 

"W.  C.  Africa,  March  29,  1892. 
"Dear  Bro.  Sheppard: 

"You  will  be  surprised  and  grieved  to  know  that  your  friend  and 
comrade,  Rev.  S.  N.  Lapsley,  while  here  at  the  coast  was  taken  down 
with  bilious  hematuric  fever,  and  the  26th  of  March  died. 

"Yours  in  haste, 

"S.  C.  Gordon." 

What  a  blow!  I  was  shocked.  My  head  became 
giddy.  My  knees  smote  together,  I  staggered  from  the 
deck,  threw  up  my  right  hand  to  the  hundreds  of  assem- 
bled natives  and  called  out,  "Ntomanjela  wa  kafua." 
(Mr.  Lapsley  is  dead.)  The  weeping  and  wailing  started 
at  once.  The  news  soon  reached  the  village  and  there 
was  wild  excitement  and  grief.  I  sought  a  quiet  spot  in 
the  forest  to  pour  out  my  soul's  gi-eat  grief  to  Almighty 
God.  I  had  nursed  Mr.  Lapsley  in  all  his  fevers,  and 
he  in  turn  had  nursed  me;  and  now  the  Master  had 
separated  us  more  than  a  thousand  miles  apart  and  had 
called  him,  the  better  prepared  of  the  two,  to  himself. 


MR.    LAPSLEY's    last    JOURNEY  85 

The  next  day  I  wrote  the  following  letter  to  his  dear 
mother: 

LuEBO,  Congo  Independent  State, 

W.  C.  Africa,  May  26,  1892. 
Dear  Mrs.  Lajjslcy: 

I  know  that  j'ou  have  wondered  why  I  have  not  written  you,  or 
why  I  was  not  the  first  to  break  to  you  the  sad  news,  but  as  you  may 
know  we  were  a  thousand  miles  apart,  and  at  this  point  of  the  in- 
terior we  got  a  steamer  once,  or  j^crcliance  twice,  a  year. 

About  the  1st  of  January,  yoiu'  darling  son  was  sick  with  a  fever. 
In  three  days  he  was  feeling  much  better.  A  steamer,  the  "Florida," 
came  in  just  then.  Mr.  Lapsley  and  I  both  thought  that  a  change 
for  a  month  or  so  would  be  beneficial  to  him,  and  he  also  had  some 
business  with  the  governor  about  our  land.  He  thought  to  accom- 
plish this  and  look  after  the  transport  at  the  same  time,  so  he  se- 
cured passage  and  left  January  6,  1892,  for  Stanley  Pool. 

That  Wednesday  morning,  February  26,  1890,  at  the  foot  of  W. 
10th  Street,  New  York,  just  a  few  moments  before  the  "Adriatic" 
left  for  England,  you  placed  your  arms  aroimd  your  boy  and  gave 
him  his  last  kisses  and  Godspeed  till  you  should  meet  again,  and 
turning  to  me  remarked:  "Sheppard,  take  care  of  Sam."  We  went 
at  once  into  Mr.  Lapsley 's  cabin  and  prayed  that  the  good  Master 
would  comfort  you  and  protect  us.  We  held  daily  communion 
with  God. 

We  spent  a  month  in  England,  being  together  always.  On  board 
the  steamer  "Africian"  we  held  daily  jirivate  prayer,  and  would  often 
mention  and  ask  special  blessings  upon  our  parents  whom  we  were 
leaving.  We  entered  Africa  and  proceeded  as  we  procured  informa- 
tion. We  had  never  been  separated  for  any  length  of  time  since  we 
left  America.  I  can  place  my  hand  on  my  heart  and  look  straight 
up  to  God  and  say  conscientiously,  "I  have  kept  the  charge  you  gave 
me;  I  have  loved  and  cared  for  him  as  if  he  were  my  own  brother." 
The  last  word  of  one  of  his  sisters  at  the  depot  in  Anniston  was, 
"Sheppard,  take  care  of  Sam."  It  has  not  only  been  a  duty  of 
mine,  but  a  pleasure.  I  have  nursed  and  cared  for  him  in  all  his 
sickness,  and  he  has  done  the  same  for  me.  When  I  was  sick  his 
eyes  knew  no  sleep.     By  my  side  he  would  sit  and  give  me  medicine. 

On  our  canoe  trip  up  the  Kasai  he  was  quite  sick  with  hematuric 
fever.     It  was  the  rainy  season  and  we  were  unduly  exposed,  so 


86  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

we  camped  for  three  days  on  a  beautiful  island  near  the  Kwango. 
There  was  nothing  we  could  get  that  was  nourishing  for  him,  and  he 
remarked,  "Oh!  I  wish  my  dear  mother  was  here;  she  would  know 
just  what  to  do  for  me."  Shortly  after  this  trip  we  came  to  Luebo, 
and  here  we  have  labored  as  best  we  could  in  promoting  the  Lord's 
kingdom.  Every  day  we  would  have  prayer  and  talks  with  our 
people.  Many  nights  when  all  was  wrapped  in  sleep  he  would  be 
walking  up  and  down  the  walk,  communing  with  God. 

Yesterday,  May  25th,  when  the  steamer  blew  I  at  once  ordered 
the  people  to  sweep  the  walks  and  fix  everything  in  order  so  that  the 
station  would  present  a  nice  appearance.  I  hurried  to  the  river 
and  the  captain  handed  me  a  handful  of  mail.  I  hurried  and  opened 
a  letter  to  get  some  news,  and  oh,  how  sad  the  news!  I  was  struck 
dumb.  He  who  left  me  a  few  months  ago  and  said,  "Good-bye, 
Sheppard;  God  bless  you.  I  will  return  by  the  next  steamer." 
Dead!  Oh!  is  it  possible?  He,  my  comrade  and  co-worker,  from 
whom  I  have  not  been  separated  these  two  years,  now  dead!  It 
was  sad,  more  than  sad,  when  I  broke  the  news,  to  hear  the  men, 
women  and  children  weeping  for  him  whom  they  loved.  And  to- 
day they  have  been  crowding  in  and  asking,  "Is  the  news  true?" 
The  greatest  weepers  were  the  chief's  family,  whose  son  was  Mr. 
Lapsley's  personal  boy. 

My  friend  and  brother  has  gone  to  be  with  Christ,  and  I  shall  see 
him  no  more.  No  more  kneeling  together  in  prayer!  No  more 
planning  together  future  work!  His  work  is  done,  and  he  is  now 
blest  with  peaceful  rest.  Oh,  that  I  could  have  nursed  him!  That 
I  could  have  kneeled  at  his  bedside  and  heard  his  last  whispers  of 
mother,  home,  and  friends.  This  is  my  sorrow,  that  I  was  not  by 
his  side  while  he  fell  asleep.  I  know  that  your  heart  is  breaking. 
I  wish  I  could  say  a  word  to  comfort  you.  Little  did  you  know 
that  his  farewell  was  forever.  But  he  shall  be  standing  at  the  beauti- 
ful gate  waiting  for  you.  We  shall  all  soon  join  him  where  farewells 
and  adieus  are  unknown.  We  submit  to  the  Master's  will  saying, 
"Not  ours,  but  thine  be  done.  What  thou  doest  we  know  not  now, 
but  we  shall  know  hereafter." 

"Sleep  on,  beloved,  sleep  and  take  thy  rest; 
Lay  down  thy  head  u];)on  thy  Saviour's  breast; 
We  loved  thee  well,  but  Jesus  loved  thee  best." 

Humbly  and  obediently, 

Sheppard. 


INTO    A    FORBIDDEN    COUNTRY  87 


Chapter  VII. 
Into  a  F'orbidden  Country. 

Start  for  the  Forbidden  Land. — After  some  weeks 
had  elapsed,  I  called  our  station  natives  together  and 
laid  plainly  before  them  the  perils  of  the  journey. 
I  told  them,  from  the  information  which  I  had,  that  the 
trails  which  had  been  made  by  elephant,  buffalo,  ante- 
lope and  Bakuba  natives  were  many  and  they  led  over 
long,  hot,  sandy  plains  through  deep  dark  forests, 
across  streams  without  bridges,  and  through  swamps 
infested  with  wild  animals  and  poisonous  serpents. 
And  above  all,  the  king  had  sent  word  throughout  the 
land  that  we  could  not  enter  his  country.  Not  a  man's 
muscle  moved.  I  said  further,  "Mr.  Lapsley,  your  friend 
and  mine,  desired  so  much  to  journey  into  that  land, 
and  it  was  his  purpose  on  his  return  to  take  this  trip, 
but  you  have  the  sad  news  that  he  will  journey  no  more 
with  us."     There  was  not  a  dissenting  voice. 

Had  General  Information. — I  had  picked  up  the 
Bakuba  dialect  from  some  of  the  king's  traders  and  tax 
collectors  who  journeyed  our  way.  I  received  from 
them  much  information  of  the  general  direction  lead- 
ing north  toward  the  capital,  the  names  of  large  towns 
on  the  way,  of  the  market  towns,  the  approximate 
distances  apart,  the  streams  to  be  crossed,  and  their 
names;  of  the  leopard,  buffalo  and  elephant  zones,  and 
the  names  of  some  of  the  chiefs  of  the  market  towns,  etc. 

We  Hit  the  Sandy  Trail. — Two  days  later,  when 
all    was    in    readiness,    tents    loaded,    cooking    utensils, 


88 


PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 


a  bag  of  money  (cowrie  shells),  some  salt,  etc.,  we  left 
Luebo,  led  by  the  Master's  hand. 

Kapunga   Hears   Her   First   Message. — My   men 

knew  from  previous  experience  the  right  trail  to  take 
as  far  as  the  Bakete  village,  Bena  Kapunga,  which  led 
us  through  Bena  Kalamba.  We  camped  for  the  even- 
ing and  had  a  long  talk  with  the  old  chief.  I  bought 
eggs,  chickens,  and  some  dried  field  rats  for  my  people. 
As  night  came  on,  we  gathered  around  the  camp  fire 
and  sang  one  of  the  hymns,  "We  Are  Marching  to  Zion," 


CANNIBAL  DANCE  IN  THE  CONGO. 


translated  by  Mr.  Lapsley,  and  gave  a  public  gospel  talk 
to  hundreds  of  natives  who  hurriedly  gathered  when  we 
began  to  sing. 

A  Dancing  People. — The  moon,  large  and  beauti- 
fully red,  rose  in  a  little  while.  The  townspeople  brought 
out  their  tom-toms  and  ivory  horns  to  sing  and  dance  in 
the  open. 


INTO   A    FORBIDDEN    COUNTRY  89 

My  caravan  was  housed  under  a  large  shed,  the  village 
court  house,  not  far  from  my  tent.  From  the  drums, 
the  horns,  the  singing  and  the  falling  over  the  tent  ropes 
by  passing  natives  and  the  many  meddlesome  goats 
chewing  on  the  tent,  there  was  no  sleeping  till  the  first 
"cock  crow." 

Seeking  the  Trail. — We  spent  three  days  in  Bena 
Kapunga  before  we  could  get  our  bearings  for  the  next 
big  weekly  market  place.  After  much  persuasion  the 
chief  gave  a  man  to  show  one  of  my  men  the  trail  to 
Ngallicoco,  a  two  days'  journey.  They  together 
journeyed  to  Ngallicoco  and  returned,  bringing  many 
dozens  of  eggs  and  other  food.  My  oiuii  man  now  knew 
the  trail,  so  the  following  day  we  packed  up  and  were  off. 
We  passed  through  a  number  of  small  villages,  slept  in 
one,  and  in  due  time  came  to  Ngallicoco.  1  he  chief 
made  us  welcome  to  his  town,  but  wanted  to  know  at 
once  where  we  were  journeying.  I  told  him  we  were 
looking  through  the  country  and  visiting  the  many 
villages,  that  I  was  not  a  bad  man  and  I  was  a  friend  to 
everybody,  and  that  my  business  was  to  tell  them  of  the 
Great  Spirit.  The  chief  and  his  people  seemed  much 
puzzled  and  sat  around  in  groups  quietly  discussing 
matters. 

My  First  Blunder. — I  was  seated  in  front  of  my 
tent  and  had  picked  up  a  handful  of  palm  nuts  and 
amused  myself  by  throwing  them  at  a  mark  on  a  house 
nearby.  In  a  moment  a  man  rushed  out  very  much 
excited.  He  gave  two  or  three  war  whoops  and  the 
villagers  began  to  run  in  his  direction.  I  became 
alarmed  and  inquired  of  one  of  my  men  the  trouble. 
And  he  explained  that  the  occupant  of  the  house  was 
going  to  die,  because  I  struck  his  house  with  a  palm  nut. 
The  man's  "Life  Medicine,"  or  charm,  had  been  made 


9  0  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

by  the  witch  doctor  from  palm  nuts  and  no  one  dared 
strike  his  house  with  one.  Immediately  I  went  over 
to  the  excited  crowd  and  explained  my  ignorance  of  the 
fact  and  promised  to  make  reparation.  It  was  accepted, 
so  I  begged  the  man's  pardon  and  presented  him  with 
a  chicken  and  we  became  friends  again. 

Live  Idols. — I  don't  know  of  a  place  where  I  saw 
more  idols  than  here  at  Ngallicoco.  At  the  cross  trails 
near  the  village  were  idols  seven  and  eight  feet  high  and 
alive,  that  is,  the  trees  from  which  they  were  made 
were  planted  two  feet  in  the  ground  and  continued  to 
grow.  Four  or  more  idols  were  planted  at  the  door, 
an  idol  for  the  husband  and  wife,  one  for  each  child, 
and  for  each  dog,  and  so  on. 

A  New  Story. — We  held  our  prayer  service  and  de- 
livered the  first  message  of  love  and  light  these  people 
had  ever  heard.  As  night  came  on  and  the  moon  in  her 
glory  shone  out,  the  big  drums  started  and  the  people 
danced  until  the  wee  morning  hours. 

Born  Hunters. — These  people  seemed  to  spend  most 
of  their  time  in  hunting,  from  the  numerous  animals 
brought  in — wild  hogs,  antelope,  hyenas,  wild  cats, 
monkeys,  bush  rats,  field  rats,  etc.  The  women  busied 
themselves  bringing  in  from  the  fields  roots  of  cassava, 
bananas  and  greens.  The  streets  were  filled  with  little 
children. 

The  First  Bakuba  Village. — I  met  a  young  Bakuba 
who  informed  me  that  his  name  was  Bope  N'gola  Minge. 
He  invited  me  to  make  a  visit  to  -his  town.  I  asked 
how  far  it  was,  and  he  told  me  the  distance  in  the  native 
way.  I  judged  it  was  about  three  hours'  march,  fifteen 
miles.  I  was  delighted,  knowing  that  this  man  had  full 
knowledge  of  King  Lukenga's  edict,  and  yet  cordially 
invited  me  to  his  town.     I  left  my  caravan,  taking  with 


INTO    A    FORBIDDEN    COITNTRY 


91 


CONGO  CORN  AND  MILL. 

mc  only  one  of  my  men.  We  made  the  trip  up  hill  and 
down,  through  jungle  and  swamp,  arriving  in  M'boma, 
the  man's  village,  late  in  the  afternoon.  I  was  glad 
we  arrived  before  sundown,  because  we  have  no  twilight 
in  the  Kasai  region,  and  the  moon  was  falling  back. 

Real  Indian  Corn. — I   met  the  chief,  a  fine  young 
man.  Hong  N'joka,  his  name  meaning  an  elephant  the 


92  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

size  of  a  mountain,  though  he  was  not  quite  so  large. 
I  was  pleased  with  the  villagers  who  came  around  in 
great  numbers.  The  chief  fed  me  on  splendidly  dried 
fish  and  corn  pone.     This  was  the  first  corn  I  had  seen. 

The  Poisonous  Cup. — The  next  morning  we  re- 
traced our  trail  to  Ngallicoco.  There  were  so  many 
meddlesome  goats,  sand  flies  and  fleas  we  decided  to 
return  at  once  to  M'boma.  After  two  hours'  march- 
ing and  our  hearts  so  glad  with  the  prospects  of  getting 
safely  into  the  first  Bakuba  town,  we  suddenly  ran  upon 
an  excited  crowd  of  people,  most  of  them  men  armed 
with  spears,  bows  and  arrows.  I  called  an  immediate 
halt  to  my  caravan.  The  armed  force  showed  no  signs 
of  fight  but  rather  to  run  away.  Bope,  my  Bakuba 
friend,  explained  that  they  were  giving  a  witch  poison, 
and  they  never  administered  the  deadly  drug  inside  of 
their  towns,  but  far  out  on  the  plain.  On  this  informa- 
tion I  started  for  the  crov.d,  saluted  them  in  their  tongue, 
and  to  my  horror  as  I  drew  near  they  were  slowly  driving 
a  woman  to  whom  they  had  given  the  poison.  She  ran 
about  fifty  yards,  staggered,  reeled,  and  fell  with  a  thud. 
A  shout  went  up  from  them  all,  "Naki!  "Naki!"  (Witch! 
Witch!)  At  once  the  witch  doctor,  a  great,  strong  man, 
with  eagle  feathers  in  his  hair,  a  leopard  skin  around 
his  loins,  leaped  upon  the  woman's  neck  and  crushed  out 
the  remaining  life.  Like  a  shot  the  men  were  off,  and 
returned  with  loads  of  dry  wood,  placed  the  woman's 
body  on  the  pile,  poured  on  palm  oil  and  stuck  a  torch 
to  the  heap. 

My  Friend  Explained. — My  friend  Bope  explained 
that  someone  died  in  a  nearby  village  and  they  believed 
that  the  woman  was  the  guilty  party  who  had  bewitched 
her.     For  if  she  had  not  been  guilty,  he  said,  the  victim 


INTO   A    FORBIDDEN   COUNTRY  93 

would  have  vomited  the  poison.  Well,  I  must  acknowl- 
edge I  walked  into  M'boma  with  rather  weak  knees. 

Exchanging  Presents. — The  chief,  Hong  Njoka, 
and  I  exchangclJ  presents.  He  gave  me  a  dozen  chickens, 
tw^o  large  goats,  one  sheep,  a  big  hamper  of  peanuts, 
six  full  bunches  of  bananas  and  a  warm  welcome,  while 
I  gave  to  him  two  pounds  of  salt,  two  yards  of  white 
domestic,  500  cowrie  shells,  ten  teaspoonfuls  of  blue 
and  white  beads,  a  handful  of  tiny  bells  and  a  small 
looking  glass.  The  latter  was  the  finest  ^present  of 
them  all. 

A  Flyless  Country. — There  was  a  constant  gentle 
breeze  on  the  high  plateau,  not  a  mosquito  anywhere, 
and,  strange  to  say,  you  seldom  saw  a  house  fly. 

We  Went  Elephant  Hunting. — The  chief,  who  was 
a  great  hunter  and  had  skulls  of  every  variety  of  animals 
bleaching  in  the  sun  on  stakes  behind  his  house,  invited 
me  to  go  with  him  to  kill  elephants.  We  had  not  gone 
a  half  mile  into  the  deep  forest  before  we  heard  the 
trumpeting  of  an  elephant  nearby.  The  chief  beckoned 
me  to  follow  him,  but  suddenly  there  was  a  crash  of 
falling  dead  trees  and  the  elephants,  perhaps  a  hundred 
or  more,  came  like  a  cyclone  thundering  by.  We 
crouched  behind  a  very  large  tree  and  let  them  go  on 
their  stormy  way  rejoicing.  When  we  had  recovered 
sufficiently  from  our  fright  we  turned  homeward. 
Before  reaching  the  village  we  shot  a  large  black  monkey 
weighing  about  forty  pounds.  There  was  enough  meat 
for  the  chief,  my  men  and  myself,  so  we  all  enjoyed  a 
good   supper. 

They  Stole  My  Pocketbook. — The  next  morning 
I  sqjd  to  the  chief  that  I  would  like  to  move  on  to  the 
next  market  place.  So  he  replied,  "Ngexa"  (tomorrow). 
That  very  night  while  all  were  quietly  sleeping  my  half 


94  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

load  of  money  (cowrie  shells)  was  stolen  from  my  tent. 
Early  in  the  morning  I  sent  for  the  chief  and  told  him 
of  my  loss,  and  I  ventured  more.  I  told  him  I  would 
have  my  money  or  he  would  have  trouble.  The  chief 
soon  had  his  head  men  together  under  a  large  open 
shed  and  they  deliberated  for  about  three  hours.  When 
night  came  on,  the  chief  came  with  the  lost  money  and 
asked  me  not  to  make  any  troul^le  about  it,  for  already 
the  women  and  children  were  frightened.  We  were 
detained  here  at  M'boma  for  twenty-nine  days,  but  I 
had  the  pleasure  of  preaching,  praying  and  singing  for 
them  in  their  tongue  daily. 

Down-Hearted  and  Depressed. — I  longed  for  the 
trail  which  would  lead  toward  King  Lukenga.  But  no 
one,  not  even  for  money,  would  assist  us.  Wearied, 
tired,  perplexed,  really  at  an  end,  I  took  my  camp  stool 
and  went  outside  of  the  village  and  into  the  quiet  forest 
and  sat  down  to  muse  and  pray.  Alone  with  God,  no 
friend,  no  companion,  no  one.  Alone!  Alone!  I  cried 
like  my  heart  would  break.  I  returned  to  the  village, 
walking  almost  like  a  drunken  man.  I  paced  up  and 
down  before  my  tent  as  a  chained  captive. 

A  Sound  of  Alarm. — "Oka!"  "Oka!"  rang  out  a 
very  loud  voice  from  one  of  the  villagers,  and  I,  too, 
stopped  and  listened,  as  did  all  the  people,  and  peering 
down  one  of  the  many  narrow  trails  a  group  of  travelers 
were  standing.  They  called  to  the  villagers  who  they 
were,  where  they  were  from,  and  where  they  were  going. 
And  in  a  moment  they  disappeared  down  through  a 
ravine.  I  asked  the  man  nearest  to  me,  "Who  are 
they?"  He  whispered,  "King  Lukenga's  trading  men, 
on  their  way  to  the  capital." 

N'Goma,  "The  Lion-Hearted." — Not  to  excite 
the  people,  I  withdrew  gently  and  called  N'goma,  my 


INTO   A    FORBIDDEN    COUNTRY  95 

head  man.  We  went  behind  a  house  and  I  explained 
as  rapidly  and  as  impressively  as  possible  of  the  men  who 
had  just  passed  and  the  direction  they  took.  I  asked, 
la>ing  my  hand  on  N'goma's  bare  back,  "Is  your  heart 
strong?"  He  answered  promptly  and  like  a  man  of  war, 
"It  is  strong."  "Have  you  any  fear  in  your  heart?" 
N'goma  looked  me  square  in  the  eye  and  said,  "I  have 
no  fear."  "N'goma,"  said  I,  "follow  those  men's 
tracks  over  the  soft  sand,  follow  them!  folloiv  theml 
Make  a  cross  mark  in  all  of  the  off  trails  and  don't 
come  back.  I  charge  you,  N'goma,  don't  return,  for 
I  will  follow  \our  trail  at  once  with  the  caravan." 

N'goma  Hits  a  Trail. — N'goma,  with  spear  in  hand, 
bare  head,  bare  feet,  bare  back,  save  his  loin  cloth  and 
his  small  pouch  of  cowrie  shells,  walked  quietly  out  of 
the  village,  but  when  he  struck  the  trail  he  was  gone  like 
an  arrow  shot  from  a  bow.  When  we  began  to  take  down 
the  tent  and  make  preparation  for  moving,  the  villagers 
gathered  around,  touching  each  other  and  talking  in  a 
low  voice. 

The  Villagers'  Protest. — Hong  N'joka,  the  chief, 
and  Bope  N'gola  Minge,  my  friend,  asked  what  I  was 
going  to  do,  and  where  I  was  going.  I  explained  to 
them  that  I  was  going  to  visit  soine  other  towns.  They 
protested,  but  to  no  effect,  and  stood  wondering  what 
to  say  or  do  while  we  moved  quietly  out  and  away. 

They  are  Calmed  by  a  Call. — Fortunately  for  us, 
there  was  no  rain,  and  we  followed  N'goma's  trail  and 
signs  for  two  days  and  came  upon  him  in  a  village  called 
Bixibing.  As  we  marched  in  the  people  were  fright- 
ened and  ran  to  the  bush,  but  I  called  to  them  in  a  loud 
voice  in  (heir  tongue,  "Ko-cinaka!  Ko-cinaka!"  (Be 
not  afraid!  Bq  not  afraid!)  They  returned  and  settled 
down. 


96  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

Welcomed  by  the  Chief. — The  chief,  Kueta,  came 
and  saluted  me,  but  his  people  remained  aloof.  We 
congratulated  faithful  N'goma,  put  up  the  tent,  and 
made  ourselves  at  home.  N'goma  explained  that  it 
was  not  possible  to  follow  the  king's  men  further,  as 
they  threatened  his  life  and  took  to  the  forest. 

Kueta  Serves  a  Banquet. — In  the  afternoon  Chief 
Kueta  came,  accompanied  by  some  of  the  first  men  of 
the  town,  the  judge,  a  lawyer,  a  witch  doctor  and  the 
town's  blacksmith,  and  presented  me  with  about  twenty 
bushels  of  corn,  five  chickens,  a  very  large  goat,  a  ham  of 
a  wild  boar,  a  basket  of  sweet  potatoes,  a  big  basket  of 
blackeyed  peas,  dried  fish,  bananas,  plantains,  pineapples, 
a  small  basket  of  field  mushrooms,  and  five  jugs  of 
water. 

Turn  Back,  Was  the  Word  of  the  Chief.— The 
chief  said,  in  his  Bakuba  tongue,  "Here  is  something 
for  you  and  your  people  to  eat,  and  there  is  the  big  shed 
under  which  you  and  your  people  can  sleep.  Tell  them 
they  must  not  steal,  nor  interfere  with  the  women  and 
children,  and  ngexa  (tomorrow)  you  must  go  back  the 
way  you  have  come." 

Showed  Myself  Friendly. — In  turn  I  thanked  them 
and  presented  my  usual  present.  I  made  myself  free 
in  the  village,  walked  up  this  street  and  down  the  other, 
saluted  this  man  and  that  woman,  and  tried  to  play 
with  the  little  children,  but  they  were  shy.  I  bought 
six  beautifully  carved  ebony  drinking  cups,  then  went 
to  the  blacksmith's  shop,  where  there  was  a  crowd  of 
half-clad  young  men  watching  the  smith  make  sparks 
fly.     The  smith  was  working  on  a  hoe. 

The  People  Work  in  Iron  and  Copper. — The 
people  gathered  most  of  their  iron  from  the  top  barren 
hills   or   from   sluggish   streams   in   a   deep   ravine.     It 


INTO  A    FORBIDDEN   COUNTRY  97 

settles  thickly  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  although 
red,  it  looks  very  much  like  moss.  The  native  oven  or 
small  furnace  was  nearby  where  the  ore  is  smelted  into 
iron. 

When  we  began  to  sing  a  large  crowd  settled  down  on 
the  ground  around  us. 

Steady,  Conservative  Farmers. — These  people  are 
different  in  appearance,  physique  and  manner  from  the 
Bakete.  They  retire  to  their  houses  and  couches  early. 
They  are  strong,  healthy  farmers.  We  passed  en  route 
a  very  large  corn  field  with  stalks  towering  far  above 
our  heads.  The  villagers  told  me  that  they  raised  fifty 
and  sixty  bushels  of  corn  to  the  acre,  and  two  crops  a 
year. 

"Telling  the  Story  Over  Again." — The  next  morn- 
ing earl3',  liefore  the  people  started  for  their  fields  or 
their  traps,  I  called  them  together  and  had  singing  and 
prayer  and  a  full,  long  talk  on  the  fall  of  Adam  and  how 
Christ  came  to  restore  us  to  God's  favor.  The  people 
heard  every  word  I  said  and  seemed  so  interested,  but 
I  fear  they  understood  not,  for  they  had  never  heard 
that  kind  of  a  story  before. 

Shooting  Guinea  Fowl. — I  told  the  chief  that  I 
heard  guinea  fowl  in  the  bushes,  and  I  was  going  cut 
for  them  and  not  to  be  alarmed  when  he  heard  a  big 
noise  from  my  gun.  The  people  had  never  seen  or  heard 
a  gun. 

In  less  than  half  an  hour  I  returned  with  four  guinea 
fowl.  I  presented  Chief  Kueta  with  two  of  them.  He 
was  frightened,  but  accepted  them. 

Making  a  Big  Road. — I  asked  where  the  people 
brought  their  drinking  water  from,  for  they  had  no  wells 
or  springs.  With  two  of  my  men  we  followed  the  narrow 
winding  trail  down  through  the  forest  to  a  small  stream. 


98  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

We  returned  and  I  suggested  to  the  chief  the  advantages 
of  a  big,  broad  road  to  the  water.  He  agreed.  CalHng 
twenty  of  my  men  and  furnishing  them  with  big  work- 
ing knives  (matchets),  we  began  cutting  the  underbrush 
and  soon  had  a  splendid  open  road  all  the  way  down 
nearly  a  half  mile.  We  all  had  a  refreshing  bath  in 
the  cool  stream.  I  knew  that  these  people  later  on 
would  see  the  advantages  of  an  open  road,  for  the  heavy 
dew  on  the  bushes  and  grass  on  chilly  mornings  was  not 
pleasant,  and,  too,  the  many  snakes  could  be  seen  be- 
fore running  upon  them. 

Jigger  Picking. — Our  feet  were  now  so  clean  we  all 
sat  down  on  the  bank  and  began  to  take  out  the  little 
pests — the  jiggers.  They  are  just  like  a  tiny  flea  and 
burrow  under  your  toe  nails  and  sometimes  finger  nails, 
lay  eggs,  and  set  up  an  irritation  which  causes  you  to 
fret  and  fuss.  They  give  you  fits  and  fevers.  The 
toes  of  many  natives  are  eaten  off  by  them. 

A  Big  Supper. — My  men  were  pretty  hungry  after 
the  hard  day's  work,  so  they  put  their  cowrie  shells 
(money)  together  and  bought  two  dogs,  killed  them, 
and  made  enough  stew  well  seasoned  with  palm  oil  and 
red  pepper  for  the  whole  party. 

Dogs  Never  Bark. — These  dogs  look  like  an  ordinary 
cur,  with  but  little  hair  on  them,  and  they  never  bark 
or  bite.  I  asked  the  people  to  explain  why  their  dogs 
didn't  bark.  So  they  told  me  that  once  they  did  bark, 
but  long  ago  the  dogs  and  leopards  had  a  big  fight,  the 
dogs  whipped  the  leopards,  and  after  that  the  leopards 
were  very  mad,  so  the  mothers  of  the  little  dogs  told 
them  not  to  bark  any  more,  and  they  hadn't  barked 
since. 

1  he   natives   tie  wooden   bells  around   their  dogs   to 


INTO   A   lORBIDDEN   COUNTRY  99 

know  where  they  are.  Every  man  knows  the  sound  of 
his  bell  just  as  we  would  know  the  bark  of  our  dog. 

Another  Warning. — Chief  Kueta  came  to  me  early 
the  third  morning  and  said  in  gestures  which  bespoke 
earnestness  and  uneasiness,  "Foreigner,  you  can't  stop 
here."  So  I  said  to  Kueta,  "Well,  why?"  "It  is  against 
the  word  of  our  king,"  said  he.  "You  must  return  the 
way  you  came,"  and  he  continued:  "Not  only  will  we 
be  killed,  but  >'ou  and  all  your  people." 

I  settled  down  in  my  chair  to  think  seriously  over 
matters. 

The  King's  Fighting  Men  are  Coming. — In  less 
than  two  hours  from  the  time  of  m\'  warning  the  town 
was  in  an  uproar.  The  king's  trading  men,  who  had 
threatened  my  man  N'goma,  had  reached  the  capital 
and  reported  to  King  Lukenga  having  seen  a  foreigner 
on  the  road  mo\ing  in  his  direction,  and  the  king  had 
sent  down  his  specially  picked  fighting  men  to  intercept, 
fight,  and  drive  me  I  ack.  I  sat  quietly  in  m>-  seat  in 
front  of  the  tent  and  watched  the  people  in  their  flight 
for  the  forest.  My  people  began  to  gather  around  my 
chair,  and  the  youngest  of  the  caravan,  N'susu,  nestled 
on  his  knees  very  close  to  me.  The  king's  people  were 
now  in  full  sight  standing  at  attention  near  to  the  big 
shed.  The  leading  man  with  his  big  spear  called  in  a 
voice  that  rang  through  the  village,  "Now  hear  the  words 
of  King  Lukenga:  Because  you  have  entertained  a 
foreigner  in  your  village,  we  have  come  to  take  >'ou  to 
the  capital  for  trial." 

Pleading  for  Chief  Kueta. — I  knew  things  were  now 
serious,  so  rising  from  my  seat  I  called  to  the  head  man 
to  meet  me  half  way.  He  paid  no  attention.  I  called 
a  second  time  and  walked  up  to  him  and  began  to  plead 
for  Chief  Kueta.     "I  understand  you  arc  sent  by  your 


100  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

king  to  arrest  these  people."  "It  is  the  word  of  the 
king,"  said  he.  I  continued,  "The  chief  of  this  village 
is  not  guilty;  he  gave  me  warning  and  told  me  to  go 
away,  to  return  the  way  I  had  come,  and  I  did  not. 
It  is  my  fault  and  not  Kueta's." 

They  Heard. — The  leader,  leaning  on  his  spear, 
replied,  "You  speak  our  language?"  "I  do,"  was  my 
quick  answer.  "That  is  strange,"  said  he.  The  leader 
and  his  men  moved  off  some  distance  and  talked  be- 
tween themselves.  In  a  little  while  he  came  back  to  me 
saying,  "I  will  return  to  the  capital  and  report  these 
things  to  the  king." 

My  Message  to  the  King. — I  said  to  him,  "Tell 
your  king  I  am  not  a  bad  man;  I  do  not  steal  nor  kill; 
I  have  a  message  for  him.  Wait  a  moment,"  said  I. 
Taking  from  one  of  my  boxes  a  very  large  cowrie  shell, 
near  the  size  of  one's  fist,  and  holding  it  up,  I  said, 
"This  we  call  the  father  of  cowries;  present  it  to  the 
king  as  a  token  of  friendship." 

He  Was  the  King's  Son. — The  men  were  soon  off 
for  the  capital  and  we  settled  down,  hoping  and  praying 
for  the  best.  Kueta  told  me  that  the  head  man  was 
King  Lukenga's  son  and  his  name  was  N'Toinzide. 

N'Toinzide  stood  more  than  six  feet,  of  bronze  color, 
blind  in  one  eye,  determined  set  lips,  and  seemed  a  man 
fearless  of  any  foe — man  or  beast.  The  villagers  told 
me  many  things  of  the  king's  son,  both  good  and  bad. 

All  Very  Quiet. — The  natives  sat  around  on  the 
ground  in  groups,  and  so  did  my  own  people,  discussing 
the  perplexing  situation.  I  lost  my  appetite,  my  in- 
terest in  hunting  and  the  villagers,  but  that  very  depres- 
sion and  dejection  brought  me  nearer  to  my  Lord. 

My  Prayer. — O  Master,  thou  who  art  everywhere 
and    who    hast    all    power,    govern    the   heart   of    King 


INTO    A    FORBIDDEN    COUNTRY  101 

Lukenga,  and  may  there  be  opened  a  road  for  thy  gospel 
into  the  very  heart  of  this  dark  land. 

The  Messengers  Reach  the  Capital. — After  some 
days  the  messengers  reached  the  capital  and  reported 
to  King  Lukenga.  "We  saw  the  foreigner,  he  speaks 
our  language,  he  knows  all  the  trails  of  the  country." 

The  King  Calls  His  Council. — The  king  was 
astonished  and  called  a  council  and  laid  the  matter  be- 
fore them.  They  deliberated  over  the  affair  and  finally 
told  the  king  that  they  knew  who  I  was. 

Thought  They  Knew  Me. — "The  foreigner  who  is 
at  Bixibing,"  said  they,  "who  has  come  these  long  trails 
and  who  speaks  our  language  is  a  Makuba,  one  of  the 
early  settlers  who  died,  and  whose  spirit  went  to  a 
foreign  country  and  now  he  has  returned." 

The  messengers  hastened  to  return  and  accompany 
me  to  the  capital. 

I  Heard  the  Message. — We  had  been  longing  and 
praying  for  days  for  the  best.  With  the  king's  special 
envoy  were  many  more  men  who  had  come  through  mere 
curiosity,  as  was  their  custom. 

N'Toinzide  stood  in  the  center  of  the  town  and  called 
with  his  loud  voice  saying  who  I  was  and  giving  briefly 
my  history. 

The  villagers  were  indeed  happy.  They  flocked 
around  as  the  king's  son  drew  near  and  extended  their 
hands  to  me. 

Denied  the  Superstition. — I  arose  from  my  chair 
and  made  these  remarks:  "I  have  heard  distinctly  all 
that  you  have  said,  but  I  am  not  a  Makuba;  I  have 
never  been  here  before." 

They  Knew  Me  Better  Than  I  Knew  Myself. — 
N'Toinzide  insisted  that  they  were  right,  and  said  that 
his  father,  the  king,  wanted  me  to  come  on  at  once  to 


102  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

the  capital.  The  people  were  mighty  happy,  Kueta, 
our  host,  the  townspeople  and  my  people,  too.  Their 
appetites  came  back,  and  so  did  mine. 

With  a  hasty  good-bye,  "Gala  hola,"  to  Kueta,  we 
were  off. 

A  Beautiful  Country. — The  trail  lay  northeast  by 
north  with  a  gradual  ascent.  The  country  was  well 
wooded  and  watered.  No  stones  could  be  seen  any- 
where, and  the  soil  was  sandy.  There  were  many  ex- 
tensive plains  with  magnificent  palm  trees,  hundreds 
and  thousands  of  them  ranging  from  a  foot  high,  which 
the  elephants  fed  upon,  to  those  fifty  and  sixty  feet  high. 
The  forest  everywhere  was  ever  green.  Trees  blossomed 
and  bloomed,  sending  out  upon  the  gentle  breeze  their 
fragrance  so  acceptable  to  the  traveler.  Festoons  of 
moss  and  running  vines  made  the  forest  look  like  a 
beautifully  painted  theatre  or  an  enormous  swinging 
garden. 

Muxihu  is  Drowning! — About  five  miles  on  our 
way  we  came  to  the  deep,  swift  stream  called  the  "Lan- 
gala."  A  great  tree  had  been  cut  down  by  the  natives 
and  they  directed  its  fall  across  the  stream  and  used  it 
for  a  bridge.  Muxihu  was  following  in  the  middle  of 
the  caravan  with  his  forty  pound  bag  of  cowrie  shells 
tied  on  his  head,  a  cord  passing  over  the  bag  and  tied 
under  his  chin.  He  lost  his  balance  and  fell.  The 
heavy  load  took  him  full  speed  on  his  head  to  the  bottom 
of  the  river  and  the  caravan  put  up  an  awful  scream  for 
help.  I  had  crossed,  but  ran  back-  at  once  and  stood. 
It  seemed  long  before  Muxihu  appeared  on  the  surface, 
then  he  struggled  and  sank  again.  Then  I  leaped  from 
the  bridge  and  swam  in  Muxihu's  direction.  As  he 
arose  again  I  had  him  by  his  two  wrists  and  turned  on 
my  back  and  swam  with  him  to  the  bank. 


INTO    A   FORBIDDEN    COUNTRY  103 

We  were  some  distance  down  and  some  of  my  men 
made  their  way  through  the  thick  undergrowth  and 
helped  us  to  cHmb  the  bank.  N'Goma  and  Mumpuya 
could  swim  and  dive,  so  they  volunteered  to  dive  for 
the  pocketbook,  and  in  an  hour  they  had  it  and  we 
started  off  again. 

On  the  King's  Highway. — We  passed  through  two 
villages  and  camped  in  the  third.  We  had  no  trouble 
in  finding  our  way,  nor  was  the  way  obstructed  by  the 
villagers,  and  we  had  plenty  of  food  and  were  in  good 
company. 

En  route  from  "Bixibing"  we  passed  under  many 
"charms,"  in  appearance  like  a  very  large  hornet's  nest. 
These  charms  were  suspended  over  the  road  by  a  string 
tied  to  a  tall  bamboo  pole  and  the  charm  was  filled  with 
poisonous  arrows,  a  warning  to  those  who  travel  that 
way.  I  was  attracted  by  a  large  elephant  tusk  inverted 
and  driven  firmly  into  the  ground  at  the  entrance  of 
the  village  court  house,  a  big  shed.  The  king's  son 
informed  me  that  his  father  had  visited  the  town  and 
had  sat  near  that  spot  and  the  villagers  had  planted 
the  ivory  there  in  honor  and  memory  of  his  visit.  On 
this  highway  we  saw  many  fresh  buffalo  tracks  and  also 
tracks  of  deer.  Through  all  the  dense  forest  which 
lies  behind  us  we  did  not  see  a  python,  though  we  have 
killed  some  on  the  plains. 

Approaching  the  Capital.— On  the  last  morning 
our  trail  grew  larger,  the  country  more  open,  and  the 
ascent  greater,  until  we  stood  upon  an  extensive  plain 
and  had  a  beautiful  view  in  every  direction  of  all  the 
land  as  far  as  we  could  see. 

The  Capital  in  Sight. — We  could  see  in  the  dis- 
tance thousands  and  thousands  of  banana  and  palm 
trees  and  our  escort  of  Bakuba  cried  out,  "Muxenge! 


104  PRESBYTERIAN  PIONEERS  IN  CONGO 

muxenge!"  (meaning  capital!  capital!)  Just  before  en- 
tering the  great  town  we  were  halted  at  a  small  guard 
post  consisting  of  a  few  houses  and  some  men  who  were 
the  king's  watchmen.  They  told  me  that  on  each  of  the 
four  entrances  to  the  capital  these  sentries  were  sta- 
tioned. A  man  was  dispatched  to  notify  the  king  that 
we  were  near.  In  a  short  while  the  people  came  out 
of  the  town  to  meet  and  greet  us,  hundreds  of  them,  and 
many  little  children,  too.  Some  of  my  caravan  were 
frightened  and  would  run  away,  but  I  told  them  that 
the  oncoming  crowd  meant  no  harm. 

N'Toinzide,  the  king's  son,  with  spear  in  hand,  took 
the  lead  and  the  interested  and  excited  crowd  after 
getting  a  peep  at  me  fell  in  behind. 


AT  lukenga's  capital  105 

Chapter  VIII. 
At  Lukenga's  Capital. 

Really  a  Great  Town. — We  marched  down  a  broad, 
clean  street,  lined  on  both  sides  by  interested  spectators 
jostling,  gesticulating,  talking  loud  and  laughing.  The 
>oung  boys  and  girls  struck  up  a  song  which  sounded 
to  me  like  a  band  of  sweet  music  and  we  all  kept  step  by 
it.  N'Toinzide  called  a  halt  at  a  house  which  I  presume 
was  15x25  feet  in  size.  You  could  enter  the  doors  front 
and  back  almost  without  stooping.  The  house  was 
made  like  all  the  others  of  bamboo  and  had  two  rooms. 
There  were  a  number  of  clay  pots  of  various  sizes  for 
cooking  and  six  large  gourds  for  water.  My  caravan-^? — 
was. comfortably  housed.  I  did  not  put  up  my  tent, 
but  took  my  seat  in  a  reclining  chair  under  a  large  palm 
tree  in  front  of  my  door.  The  crowd  was  immense,  but 
we  had  them  to  sit  down  on  the  ground  so  we  could 
get  a  breath  of  air. 

The  King  Sends  Greetings. — In  the  afternoon  the 
king  sent  greetings,  and  with  it  fourteen  goats,  six 
sheep,  a  number  of  chickens,  corn,  pumpkins,  large  dried 
fish,  bushels  of  peanuts,  bunches  of  bananas  and  plan- 
tains and  a  calabash  of  palm  oil  and  other  food. 

The  prime  minister,  N'Dola,  v.ho  brought  the  greet- 
ings, mentioned  that  the  king  would  see  me  next  day; 
also  that  the  king's  servants  would  take  out  of  the  village 
all  goats  and  chickens  which  I  did  not  want  for  immediate 
use. 

No  Animals  in  Town. — For,  said  N'Dola,  no  sheep, 


106  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

goats,  hogs,  clogs,  ducks  or  chickens  are  allowed  in  the 
king's  town. 
We    Delivered    Our    Master's    Message. — In    the 

evening  we  started  our  song  service  and  I  delivered  to 
them  our  King's  message.  The  crowd  was  great. 
The  order  was  good.  I  went  to  rest  with  the  burden 
of  these  people  upon  my  heart,  and  thanking  God  that 
He  had  led,  protected  and  brought  us  through  close 
places  safely  to  the  "Forbidden  Land." 

A  Grand  Affair. — Early  in  the  morning  we  heard 
the  blast  of  ivory  horns  calling  the  attention  of  the  people 
to  put  on  their  best  robes  and  be  in  readiness  for  the  big 
parade.  I  saw  there  was  great  activity  in  the  town, 
men  and  women  hurrying  to  and  fro.  Soon  two  stal- 
wart Bakuba  with  their  red  kilts  on  and  feathers  in 
their  hats  appeared  before  my  house  and  announced 
their  readiness  to  accompany  me  before  King  Lukenga. 

They  noticed  an  old  brass  button  tied  by  a  string 
around  the  neck  of  one  of  my  men.  Very  politely  they 
removed  it,  saying,  "Only  the  king  can  wear  brass  or 
copper." 

I  was  dressed  in  what  had  once  been  white  linen. 
Coat,  trousers,  white  canvas  shoes  and  pith  helmet. 
The  officials  on  either  side  took  me  by  the  arm;  we 
walked  a  block  up  the  broad  street,  turned  to  the  right 
and  walked  three  blocks  till  we  came  to  the  big  town 
square.  Thousands  of  the  villagers  had  already  taken 
their  position  and  were  seated  on  the  green  grass.  King 
Lukenga,  his  high  officials  and  about  300  of  his  wives 
occupied  the  eastern  section  of  the  square.  The  placers 
of  stringed  instruments  and  drummers  were  in  the  center, 
and  as  we  appeared  a  great  shout  went  up  from  the  peo- 
ple. The  king's  servants  ran  and  spread  leopard  skins 
along  the  ground  leading  to  his  majesty.     I  approached 


AT  lukenga's  capital  107 

with  some  timidity.  The  king  arose  from  his  throne 
of  ivory,  stretched  forth  his  hand  and  greeted  me  with 
these  words,  "Wyni"  (You  have  come).  I  bowed 
low,  clapped  my  hands  in  front  of  me,  and  answered, 
"Ndini,  Nyimi"  (I  have  come,  king). 

The  Royal  Dance. — As  the  drums  beat  and  the 
harps  played  the  king's  sons  entered  the  square  and 
danced  one  after  the  other  single  handed,  brandishing 
their  big  knives  in  the  air.  The  king's  great  chair,  or 
throne,  was  made  of  carved  tusks  of  ivory,  and  his  feet 
rested  upon  lion  skins.  I  judged  him  to  have  been  a 
little  more  than  six  feet  high  and  with  his  crown,  which 
was  made  of  eagle  feathers,  he  towered  over  all.  The 
king's  dress  consisted  of  a  red  loin  cloth,  draped  neatly 
about  his  waist  in  many  folds.  He  wore  a  broad  belt 
decorated  with  cowrie  shells  and  beads.  His  armlets 
and  anklets  were  made  of  polished  cowrie  shells  reach- 
ing quite  above  the  wrists  and  ankles.  These  decora- 
tions were  beautifully  white.  His  feet  were  painted 
with  powdered  camwood,  resembling  morocco  boots. 
The  king  weighed  about  200  pounds.  He  wore  a  pleas- 
ant smile.  He  looked  to  be  eighty  years  old,  but  he 
was  as  active  as  a  middle-aged  man. 

Trying  to  Clear  the  King's  Mind. — When  we  had 
sat  for  an  hour  without  further  conversation,  with  only 
now  and  then  a  smile  or  a  gentle  laugh  from  him  as  the 
dancers  amused  and  pleased  him,  I  ventured  to  clear 
up  the  superstition  which  was  between  us.  I  leaned 
from  my  seat  toward  King  Lukenga  and  getting  his 
attention  said  l)ricfly,  "I  understand,  king,  that  >our 
people  believe  me  to  l)e  a  Makuba  who  once  lived  here." 
The  king  replied  with  a  smile,  "N'Gaxa  Mi"  (It  is  true). 
"I  want  to  acknowledge  to  >ou,"  said  I,  "that  I  am  not 
a  Makuba  and  I  have  never  been  here  before."     ^Ihe 


108  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

king  leaned  over  the  arm  of  his  great  chair  and  said 
with  satisfaction,  "You  don't  know  it,  but  you  are 
'Muana  Mi'  "  (one  of  the  family). 

At  the  Close  of  the  Day. — As  the  sun  was  setting 
in  the  west  the  king  stood  up,  made  a  slight  bow  to  his 
people  and  to  me.  His  slaves  were  ready  with  his 
cowrie  studded  hammock  to  take  him  to  his  palace,  for 
his  feet  must  never  touch  the  ground.  His  hammock 
was  like  the  body  of  a  buggy  carried  on  two  long  poles 
upon  the  shoulders  of  many  men.  Through  the  shouts 
of  the  people  I  was  accompanied  back  to  my  resting 
place.  It  was  the  most  brilliant  affair  I  had  seen  in 
Africa,  but  my!  I  was  so  glad  when  it  was  all  over. 

Singing  Their  King  to  Sleep. — Mumpuya,  my  cook, 
had  prepared  a  splendid  supper  of  chicken  fried  with 
palm  oil,  fried  plantains  and  some  tender  roasting  ears. 
I  was  both  tired  and  hungry. 

About  7  o'clock  N'Toinzide,  with  a  few  of  his  friends, 
came  to  ask  me  to  go  with  them  to  hear  the  king's  wives 
sing  him  to  sleep.  In  a  little  while  we  were  there  and 
stood  quietly  on  the  outside  of  the  king's  high  enclosure. 
Their  voices  were  musical  and  sweet,  though  I  could 
only  catch  a  word  now  and  then.  The  words  "Nyimi, 
Obetcaka"  and  "Ndimuka"  (king,  sleep  and  love)  were 
very  distinct.  I  was  pleased  that  the  people  were  so 
happy  with  their  king.  But  the  thought  that  brought 
me  to  tears  was,  would  these  people  here  and  at  Luebo, 
and  the  thousands  between,  ever  gather  in  groups  for 
singing  to  our  King  and  adore  him-  in  family  prayer? 

Royalty  Never  Begs. — We  returned  to  camp. 
N'Toinzide  intimated  if  it  was  convenient  and  for  me 
not  to  think  he  would  beg,  to  give  him  a  little  foreign 
salt,  some  shells,  beads  and  enough  foreign  cloth  to 
put  around  his  bare  shoulders.     I  gave  it  with  pleasure. 


AT   LUKENGA  S    CAPITAL 


109 


Before  leaving  he  asked  if  I  had  another  of  those  very 
large  shells  which  I  had  sent  his  father.     I  found  one. 

Seeing  the  King's  Palace. — Early  the  next  morn- 
ing I  sent  for  N'Toinzide,  and  together  we  went  to  see 


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KING   LUKENGAS  SPECIAL  MEDICINE  MEN. 


the  king.  After  reaching  the  first  great  enclosure, 
through  which  no  one  can  see  and  none  climb  over, 
N'Toinzide  gave  several  taps  at  a  small  wicker  window 
high    up.     A    curtain    was    drawn,    a    few    words   were 


110  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN   CONGO 

whispered,  and  we  walked  on  beyond  until  we  came  to  a 
narrow  entrance  which  had  been  opened  by  N'Toinzide's 
brother.  We  passed  in  and  the  door  was  shut  and 
barred.  We  then  passed  through  three  more  gates  and 
waited.  In  a  little  while  we  were  escorted  through  a 
double  doorway,  the  side  posts  of  which  were  beauti- 
fully carved. 


AN  OBSERVATION  HOUSE  OF  KING  LUKENCA. 

An  Interview  With  the  King. — The  king  in  ordi- 
nary costume  was  seated  on  a  low  stool  and  we  were 
seated  on  a  large  exquisitely  woven  mat.  The  king 
greeted  us  with  "W^ni"  (You  have  come).  We  both 
leaned  forward  and  clapping  our  hands  twice  repeated 
together,  "Ndini"  (We  have  cortie).  During  all  the 
interview  we  clapped  our  hands  after  every  sentence. 
If  the  king  coughed  we  coughed,  if  he  sneezed  we  sneezed. 
N'Toinzide's  wife,  Mbiwata,  came  in  and  sat  with  us, 
and  so  did  the  king's  principal  wife.  Two  slaves  on 
tiieir  knees  supported  the  king's  back. 


AT  lukenga's  capital  111 

The  Message. — After  some  preliminaries  I  told  the 
king  of  my  coming  to  his  land  with  a  splendid  young 
white  man  whom  the  Bakete  named  N'Tomanjela — 
"a  path  finder."  The  king,  anxious  that  I  should 
know  his  vast  possessions,  interrupted  me  and  said,  "I 
heard  of  him,  he  was  at  Luebo,  and  those  people  down 
there  are  my  subjects."  He  continued,  "I  have  more 
people,  the  Bakumbuya,  Basalele  and  Banginda  are 
mine."  Certainls'  I  thanked  him  for  the  information 
and  continued  my  story.  "N'Tomanjela  taught  the 
little  children  how  to  mark  on  the  ground  what  they 
were  thinking  in  their  heads.  He  taught  them  also 
about  the  Great  Spirit,  a  great  King.  This  King  made 
everything — the  trees,  the  rivers,  the  elephants,  the  ants, 
the  sun,  the  moon  and  stars.  This  King  made  every- 
thing. I  had  the  king's  attention,  so  I  continued: 
"This  young  man  N'Tomanjela  died  and  was  buried 
and  his  spirit  went  back  to  the  Great  King.  So  I  ha\e 
come  alone,  and  my  real  purpose  here  is  to  tell  \ou  of 
the  Great  King  and  have. your  full  permission  to  tell 
about  Him  everywhere." 

King  Lukenga  instead  of  asking  questions  about  this 
King,  as  I  reall>'  supposed  he  would  do,  leaned  toward 
me,  smiled,  and  said,  "It  is  all  right;  you  can  tell  it  every- 
where, but  >ou  can't  leave  the  capital;  you  must  stay 
here." 

As  we  bowed  out  and  away  I  thanked  God  that  the 
king's  heart  was  in  His  own  hand,  and  that  Mr.  Lapsley's 
long  desire  had  lieen  accomplished. 

Lukenga  Old  and  Gray. — Lukenga,  though  old 
and  gray-haired,  was  strong  and  normal  in  all  of  his 
faculties.  I  have  seen  here  a  hundred  or  more  gray- 
headed  men  and  women.     A  long-lived  people. 

The  King's  Living  Room. — There  were,  I  presume. 


.112  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

more  than  a  hundred  bamboo  houses  in  the  king's  pri- 
vate compound  for  his  wives,  sons,  daughters  and  slaves. 

The  wives  are  the  ones  who  sing  him  to  sleep  and  sing 
him  up  in  the  morning  with  appropriate  songs. 

The  spacious  living  room  is  where  the  king  holds  his 
private  council  and  palavers.  The  walls  are  covered 
with  smoothly  woven  mats  like  thick  wall  paper.  The 
rafters  are  held  up  by  massive  artistically  carved  pillars 
of  mahogany.  The  clay  floor  was  covered  with  mats, 
except  a  small  space  where  a  slow  fire  burns  continu- 
ously. 

Statues  of  Four  Kings. — On  an  elevation  were 
statues  of  four  former  kings.  These  statues  were 
carved  from  ebony.  They  were  highly  prized  and  re- 
garded  as  sacred. 

One  of  them  represented  King  Xamba  Bulngunga. 
On  his  lap  Mas  something  like  a  checker  board.  King 
Xamba's  dearest  amusement  was  in  playing  this  native 
game. 

Another  had  a  blacksmith's  anvil  before  him,  for  he 
loved  the  art  of  blacksmithing. 

A  great  national  dispute  came  between  Xamba  and 
another  supposed  heir  to  the  throne.  The  different 
factions  had  fought  and  still  the  matter  was  not  settled. 
So  it  was  agreed  that  the  two  contestants  make  iron 
axes  and  proceed  to  the  lake  nearby  and  the  one  whose 
axe  floated  would  be  counted  king.  Xamba  (so  they 
said)  made  his  axe  out  of  wood  and  covered  it  with  thin 
iron.  On  the  day  of  the  test  before  thousands  of 
anxious  disputers  the  axes  with  befitting  ceremony  were 
thrown  into  the  lake.  Xamba's  axe  floated  and  while 
the  people  shouted  and  fought,  Xamba  was  borne  on  the 
shoulders  of  his  strong  men  to  the  capital  and  crowned 
king  of  the  Bakuba. 


AT  lukenga's  capital  113 

Bakuba  Have  No  Individual  Idol. — I  have  seen  in 
no  Bakuba  village  an  idol.  I  mean  a  large  piece  of 
wood  carved  into  an  image  to  be  dreaded  or  adored. 
The  people  wear  charms  around  their  necks,  arms  and 
ankles,  and  these  have  their  local  significance.  A  man 
has  his  charm  on  his  wrist  and  before  eating  with  his 
neighbor,  drinking  palm  wine  or  smoking  a  borrowed 
pipe,  he  will  lick  this  small  charm  to  prevent  any  evil 
wish  of -his  neighbor  entering  his  stomach. 

King  Lukenga  offers  up  a  sacrifice  of  a  goat  or  lamb 
on  every  new  moon.  The  blood  is  sprinkled  on  a  large 
idol  in  his  own  fetich  house,  in  the  presence  of  all  his 
counselors.  This  sacrifice  is  for  the  healthfulness  of  all 
the  king's  country,  for  the  crops,  etc. 

Replenishing  My  Pccketbook. — I  sold  a  great  num- 
ber of  small  round  looking  glasses  for  one  hundred  shells 
each,  and  I  could  have  sold  a  thousand  or  more. 
The  women  almost  fought  with  each  other  for  the  posses- 
sion of  one.  They  had  never  seen  themselves,  only 
dimly  in  a  creek  or  a  small  pot  of  water  which  served  as 
a  mirror.  I  also  had  some  small  white  and  blue  beads 
and  they,  too,  went  quickly.  A  small  bag  of  buttons, 
all  shapes,  sizes  and  colors,  went  in  a  hurry.  The  people 
tied  them  on  their  necks  and  ankles  for  ornaments. 

As  I  sold  to  the  people,  they  in  turn  brought  articles 
for  sale.  Hoes,  knives,  rugs,  mats,  cloth,  leopard  teeth, 
wild  boar  teeth,  live  monkeys,  parrots  and  other  birds, 
eagle  and  aigrette  feathers  and  things  innumerable. 

Happy,  Happy  Days. — I  asked  the  king  to  have  a 
large  shed  constructed  before  my  door  to  protect  the 
people  from  the  intense  heat,  and  in  a  week's  time  it 
was  up.  Every  morning  it  was  filled  and  overflowing 
with  these  traders  and  others.  I  preached  the  gospel 
to  them.     We  would  sing  one  or  two  hymns,  have  prayer, 


114  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

and  then,  as  slowly  and  simply  as  possible  I  would  tell 
the  new  and  wonderful  story  of  Jesus.  The  audience 
gave  excellent  attention,  no  moving,  talking  or  laughing; 
only  now  and  then  a  nudge  or  a  significant  glance  at 
each  other. 

There  were  many,  many  questions  which  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  answering  after  each  service.  Poor  people, 
without  home,  without  father,  without  the  Friend  that 
sticketh  closer  than  a  brother. 

The  Origin  of  the  Bakviba. — This  tribe  is  called 
Bakuba  by  all  the  surrounding  tribes,  but  their  real 
name  is  "Buxongo."  The  king's  private  name  is  Kueta 
Mboykin.  Their  tribal  marks  are  tattooed  on  their 
abdomens;  also  the  two  upper  front  teeth  are  extracted. 
The  marks  are  put  on  by  their  mothers  and  the  two  front 
teeth  are  removed  by  the  blacksmith. 

From  all  the  information  I  can  gather,  they  migrated 
from  the  far  north,  crossed  rivers  and  settled  on  the 
high  table  land.  And  with  many  expeditions  fought 
and  conquered  the  surrounding  tribes. 

Tradition  says  their  first  people,  man  and  woman, 
\\  ere  let  down  from  the  skies  by  a  rope,  from  which  they 
untied  themselves  and  the  rope  was  drawn  up.  These 
people  are  conservative  and  very  proud.  There  are 
about  10,000  Bakuba  in  the  capital,  and  it  will  take  many 
journeys  before  we  can  estimate  how  many  there  are 
in  the  whole  tribe.  Their  language  is  full,  highly  in- 
flected and  musical.  They  do  not  speak  to  the  little 
ones  in  "baby  language,"  but  talk  to  them  just  the  same 
as  they  do  their  elders. 

The  Return  of  Cibambi. — One  morning  Cibambi, 
one  of  my  followers,  called  me  aside  privately  and  said, 
"I  am  dying."  I  said  in  surprise,  "Dying!  What  do 
>ou  mean,  Cibambi?"     "I  mean  long  ago  my  tribe  and 


AT    LUKENGA  S   CAPITAL 


115 


these  people  fought.  We  killed  some  of  them  and  now 
they  have  bewitched  me."  ■■  I  talked  and  reasoned  with 
him  of  how  impossible  such  a  thing  could  be,  but  it 
was  useless.     He  spat  upon   the  ground   a   number  of 


PRINCE  MAXAMALINGE  AND  WIFE.     (Son  of  the  Lukenga  of  1892.) 

times  and  remarked,  "See,  I  am  spitting  up  my  life." 
I  saw  at  once  it  was  a  case  of  indigestion  and  I  gave  him 
some  medicine,  explaining  that  he  would  soon  be  well. 
But  it  was  to  no  effect.  He  imagined  that  he  was  be- 
witched and  no  doubt  would  have  pined  away  and  died. 


116  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

So  I  reluctantly  granted  his  request,  gave  him  money 
and  a  guide,  a  fowl  and  an  old  magazine  as  his  transport 
papers  and  he  started  for  home. 

They  Serenaded  Us. — Many  nights  the  Bakuba 
gathered  around  my  house  and  with  harps  and  voices 
made  sweet  music. 

Their  harps  are  something  on  the  order  of  small  crude 
mandolins,  but  they  know  how  to  play  them.  Around 
the  home,  in  the  field  or  on  a  journey  they  always 
whistle,  hum  or  sing. 

Another  Royal  Visitor. — Another  son  of  the  king 
came  to  visit  me;  his  name  was  Maxamalinge.  He  was 
tall,  weighed  about  250,  fine  looking  and  had  a  splendid 
bearing.  On  the  whole,  very  much  dressed  up  and  very 
dignified.     A  number  of  slaves  accompanied  him. 

After  a  short  talk  he  invited  me  to  go  with  him  to  his 
house  and  have  dinner.  I  was  pleased,  and  together 
we  walked  through  the  town  to  his  own  private  home. 
His  house  was  surrounded  by  a  number  of  private 
fences.  The  gates  were  closed  behind  us,  and  no  one 
could  see  through;  there  were  no  cracks.  His  wife, 
Bulengunga,  was  busy  cooking  in  an  adjacent  room — a 
real  kitchen.  There  were  three  large  rooms  to  his 
house,  a  reception  room,  bed  room  (in  which  is  also 
kept  his  valuables — tusks  of  ivory,  cam  wood  and  big 
balls  of  copper  and  iron)",  and  the  kitchen.  The  houses 
of  his  slaves  were  just  beyond  the  first  fence. 

Dinner  was  prepared  for  six,  and  we  all  sat  down  on 
mats  and  used  our  fingers  eating  from  the  various  pots 
fresh  fish,  buffalo,  greens  and  corn  bread.  The  visitors 
as  well  as  my  host  and  hostess  asked  question  after 
question,  but  it  did  not  prevent  me  from  enjoying  a 
good,  hot  meal. 

A  Snake  Charmer. — One  of  the  servants  sat  at  the 


AT   lukenga's   capital  117 

door  and  amused  us  by  allowing  a  scorpion  to  crawl 
up  and  down  his  naked  arm,  and  he  also  placed  the 
scorpion  under  his  arm  pit.  He  did  many  tricks  with 
the  scorpion.  He  was  also  a  snake  charmer,  and  no 
snake,  tarantula  or  scorpion  would  bite  or  sting  him. 

The  King's  Town. — The  town  was  laid  off  east  and 
west.  The  broad  streets  ran  at  right  angles,  and  there 
were  blocks  just  as  in  any  town.  Those  in  a  block 
were  always  related  in  some  way.  Around  each  house 
is  a  court  and  a  high  fence  made  of  heavy  matting  of 
palm  leaves,  and  around  each  block  there  is  also  a  high 
fence,  so  you  enter  these  homes  by  the  many  gates. 
Each  block  has  a  chief  called  Mbambi,  and  he  is  responsi- 
ble to  King  Lukenga  for  his  block.  When  the  king  will 
deliver  a  message  to  the  whole  village  or  part  of  it,  these 
chiefs  are  sent  for  and  during  the  early  evenings  they 
ring  their  iron  hand  bells  and  call  out  in  a  loud  voice 
the  message  in  five  minutes.  The  king  desired  of  his 
own  heart  to  give  me  peanuts  for  my  people.  I  heard 
the  messengers  delivering  the  word  and  the  next  morn- 
ing we  had  more  peanuts  than  we  could  manage.  In 
some  of  the  yards  there  were  trees  with  blooming  flowers 

No  Lights  in  Town. — There  was  not  a  visible  light 
anywhere  in  the  whole  town.  "A  chunk  or  two"  is 
always  kept  smouldering  in  the  center  of  the  house  on 
the  clay  floor.  The  housewife  is  always  careful  to  have 
a  handful  of  split  dry  bamboo  near,  and  when  anyone 
is  stung  by  a  scorpion  or  snake  (which  often  happens) 
they  start  up  a  blaze  and  hunt  for  the  intruder  and  medi- 
cine. 

When  there  is  neither  moon  nor  stars  it  is  truly  a  land 
of  awful  darkness,  and  is  made  more  dismal  by  the  yelp- 
ing of  the  jackal  on  the  plain.  The  moon  shines  no- 
where more  brightly  and  beautifully  than  on  Lukenga's 


118  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN     CONGO 

plain.  And  the  beauty  is  enhanced  by  the  thousands 
of  majestic  palms,  and  the  singing  of  birds  with  voices 
like  the  mocking  bird  and  the  nightingale.  I  have  sat 
in  front  of  my  house  moonlight  nights  until  12  and  1 
o'clock. 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA  S    LAND 


119 


Chapter  IX. 

Customs  in  Lukenga's  Land. 

A  Clean  Village. — Every  morning  the  "courts"  and 
streets  were  swept.  Men  who  had  committed  some 
offence  were  compelled  to  pull  weeds  and  sweep  the 
streets  clean. 


CONGO  CLOTH. 


There  is  a  rule  in  all  Bakuba  villages  that  every  man 
every  day  sweep  before  his  own  door.  The  only  littered 
places  I  observed  were  at  the  four  public  entrances  of 
the  town  where  markets  were  held  dailv  at  6  A.   M., 


120  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

12  noon  and  5  P.  M. — sugar  cane  pulp,  banana  and 
plantain  peelings,  and  peanut  shells. 

When  the  king's  drum  taps  the  signal  about  9  P.  M. 
at  the  conclusion  of  the  sleep  song  there  is  not  a  sound 
again  in  the  "whole  village. 

An  Honest  People. — All  the  natives  we  have  met 
in  the  Kasai  are,  on  the  whole,  honest.  Our  private 
dwellings  have  never  been  locked  day  or  night.  Your 
pocketbook  is  a  sack  of  cowries  or  salt  tied  at  the  mouth 
with  a  string.  But  now  and  then  something  happens 
that  the  rule  may  not  become  monotonous.  N'susa, 
one  of  the  boys  of  my  caravan,  misappropriated  some 
cowries.  I  called  him  (in  the  presence  of  two  witnesses) 
in  question  about  the  matter.  He  acknowledged  re- 
moving the  shells  and  innocently  remarked,  "You  are 
the  same  as  my  father,  and  what  is  his  is  mine." 

Very  Superstitious. — Before  a  man  starts  on  his 
journey  the  witch  doctor  blesses  his  charm — a  palm  nut, 
cola  nut  or  a  small  antelope  horn  which  is  worn  on  the 
neck. 

If  two  persons  (and  they  never  travel  alone)  come  to 
an  obstruction  in  the  path  (tree  stump,  etc.),  they  never 
part,  but  both  pass  on  the  same  side.  If  either  stump 
a  toe  and  the  blood  runs  out,  they  invariably  turn  back. 

The  itching  of  the  hand,  twitching  of  the  eye,  a  crow 
flying  across  one's  house,  an  owl  hooting  in  the  jungle,  a 
snake  crossing  your  trail,  are  all  bad  signs.  The  new 
moon  was  carefully  watched  whether  it  bore  good  or 
evil  tidings.  If  the  crescent  lay  with  both  points  up- 
ward, this  was  a  sign  of  peace.  If  it  stood  on  the  point, 
drums  were  beaten,  horns  blown,  arrows  dipped  afresh 
in  poison,  for  there  was  going  to  be  blood  shed. 

A  woman  crying  and  holding  her  hands  over  a  bruised 
eye  came  to  my  place  asking  for  medicine.     She  said 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA's    LAND  121 

that  early  in  the  morning  she  and  her  husband  had  a 
quarrel,  and  he  on  his  way  to  his  cornfield  was  bitten 
by  a  snake.  He  returned  home  and  beat  her  for  it  and 
said  that  she  had  sent  the  snake  to  bite  him. 

The  capsizing  of  a  canoe,  the  falling  out  of  a  palm  tree, 
a  hunter  or  traveler  killed  by  elephant  or  leopard — these 
are  caused  by  some  enemy. 

The  Signal  Leaf. — A  woman  under  the  treatment 
of  her  doctor  and  on  her  way  to  the  creek  for  a  jug  of 
water  carries  in  her  mouth  a  leaf,  which  signifies  to 
all  that  she  must  not  be  saluted.  If  she  is  cooking  a  meal 
and  a  neighbor  comes  in,  she  must  not  speak  until  she 
is  through  cooking  and  everything  covered  up.  By 
speaking  or  talking  someone  can  wish  her  evil  and  it 
enters  the  stomach  by  drinking  or  eating. 

The  Mother-in-Law. — A  man  never  meets  face  to 
face  his  mother-in-law  on  the  highway.  The  man  steps 
off  and  hides  or  turns  his  face.  He  never  sits  near  or 
eats  with  her  at  any  time.  He  must  always  act  shy. 
He  honors  her  in  this  way. 

No  Eye-Witness. — A  man  accused  of  breaking  the 
rule  of  honesty,  if  there  is  no  eye-witness,  is  tested  by 
putting  his  right  hand  three  times  deep  down  in  a  pot 
of  scalding  water,  and  if  the  skin  begins  to  peel  off,  he 
is  guilty;  if  it  docs  not  he  is  innocent. 

Red  Pepper  Test. — The  girl  accused  of  misconduct 
is  tested  by  the  witch  doctor  putting  a  small  piece  of 
copper  wire  and  a  finger  full  of  red  pepper  in  her  eye.  If 
the  copper  wire  falls  out  and  the  pepper  does  not  burn 
her,  she  is  innocent.  If  otherwise,  she  is  guilty  and 
must  pay  a  fine. 

The  Poisonous  Cup. — In  the  native  mind  no  one 
dies  an  ordinary  death :  they  have  been  bewitched  by 
an  enemy.     The  witch  doctors  are  paid  by  the  relatives 


122  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

of  the  deceased  to  hunt  out  the  guilty  one.  Early  in 
the  morning  with  painted  bodies,  feathers  in  their  hair, 
leopard  skins  on  their  bodies,  big  war  knives  in  their 
hands,  they  proceed  to  run,  leap,  scream,  ring  iron  bells 
up  and  down  the  streets,  stopping  and  hooting  at  every 
door,  until  by  some  imaginary  force  they  are  held  at 
someone's  door.  A  great  shout  goes  up  from  the  chasers. 
The  person  is  called  out  and  accused.  Of  course,  they 
declare  their  innocence,  but  they  are  taken  to  a  shed 
called  the  witch's  house.  They  remain  there  until  the 
marketers  come  in  from  the  country.  In  the  meantime 
the  accused  is  visited  by  relatives  and  friends,  each  ex- 
pressing their  regret  and  hoping  the  test  will  be  passed. 

The  witch  doctor  cuts  from  a  certain  tree  poisonous 
bark,  pounds  it  up  and  mixes  it  with  water  and  stand- 
ing before  the  accused  and  the  assembled  crowd  says, 
"If  you  are  guilty  you  will  die;  if  not  guilty  you  will 
vomit  the  poison."  The  victim,  knowing  that  he  is 
innocent,  willingly  takes  the  bowl  and  proceeds  to  drink 
it  all. 

The  Victim  of  the  Cup. — The  victim  is  told  to  walk 
and  in  about  ten  minutes  the  poison  has  its  effect. 
If  it  acts  as  an  emetic,  a  great  shout  of  joy  goes  up  from 
friends  of  the  accused.  The  victim  is  allowed  to  be 
carried  off  to  a  secret  place  by  friends  and  the  excruciat- 
ing heaving  goes  on  for  hours.  If  the  victim,  irom  the 
effects  of  the  poison,  staggers  and  falls,  a  shout  goes 
up  from  enemies  and  the  witch  doctor  leaps  upon  the 
neck  of  the  fallen  and  crushes  out  the  remainder  of 
life.  The  body  is  then  wrapped  in  a  mat,  taken  far 
out  on  the  plain  and  burned  to  ashes. 

No  One  Lives  Alone. — From  the  great  Lukenga 
plateau  as  far  as  the  eye  can  look  you  see  villages  dotted 
everywhere.     You    never    find    a    family    living    alone 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA's    LAND  123 

isolated  from  a  village.  The  people  live  together  for 
mutual  protection  from  enemies  and  animals.  And 
usually  everybody  in  a  village  is  related  in  some  near  or 
distant  way;  but  it  does  not  keep  them  from  fighting 
occasionally. 

They  Actually  Court. — The  Bakuba  are  monoga- 
mists. A  young  man  sees  a  girl  whom  he  likes;  he  has 
met  her  in  his  own  town  or  at  some  other,  or  perhaps  at  a 
market  place  or  a  dance.  He  sends  her  tokens  of  love, 
bananas,  plantains,  peanuts,  dried  fish  or  grasshoppers. 
She  in  turn  sends  him  similar  presents. 

They  often  meet,  sit  down  on  the  green,  laugh  and 
talk  together.  I  have  seen  the  girls  often  blush  and 
really  put  on  airs.  He  asks  her  to  have  him,  if  she  has 
no  one  else  on  her  heart,  and  tells  her  that  he  wants  no 
one  to  eat  the  crop  that  is  in  the  field  but  her.  The 
girl  and  the  parents  both  agree. 

They  Really  Marry. — On  a  set  day  A\hen  the  market 
is  in  full  blast,  with  hundreds  of  people  from  everywhere, 
the  young  man  and  girl,  with  their  >oung  friends,  all 
dressed  in  their  best  robes,  meet  and  march  Indian  file 
through  the  open  market  and  receive  congratulations 
from   everybody. 

The  new  bride  and  groom  continue  their  march  to 
the  already  prepared  house  of  the  young  man.  A  feast 
of  goat,  sheep,  monkey,  chicken  or  fish,  with  plenty  of 
palm  wine  is  served  and  all  is  ended  with  a  big  dance. 

Royalty  Excepted. — The  women  of  the  king's 
household  select  their  own  husbands,  and  no  man  dare 
decline;  and  no  man  would  ever  be  so  rude  or  pre- 
sumptions as  to  ask  for  the  hand  and  heart  of  royalty. 

Agreements  Understood. — The  husband  knows 
that  he  must  cut  down  the  forest  and  assist  in  planting 
corn,  millet,  Ijeans,  peas,  sweet  potatoes  and  tobacco, 


124  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

hunt  for  game,  bring  the  pahii  wine,  pahn  nuts,  make  his 
wife's  garments  and  repair  the  house.  He  is  never  to 
be  out  after  8  o'clock  at  night  unless  sitting  up  at  a  wake 
or  taking  part  in  a  public  town  dance. 

The  young  man  before  marriage  sends  a  certain  num- 
ber of  well  woven  mats  and  so  many  thousands  of  cowries 
to  the  parents  of  the  girl  as  a  dowry.  If  they  cease  to 
love  and  must  part,  even  twenty  rainy  seasons  from 
marriage,  the  dowry  or  its  equivalent  is  returned  to 
the  man. 

The  wife  is  expected  to  shave  and  anoint  the  hus- 
band's body  with  palm  oil,  keep  his  toenails  and  finger- 
nails manicured,  bring  water  and  wood,  help  in  the  field, 
cook  his  food,  and  take  care  of  the  children. 

Love  Medicine. — I  have  had  many  a  man  come  and 
ask  to  buy  love  medicine.     They  think  charms  and  medi- 
cine can  do  anything.     I  always  told  them,  of  course,  ^J 
that  it  was  a  matter  of  the  girl's  heart,  and  charms  or 
medicines  could  not  help  out  in  their  "love  affairs." 

They  Love  Large  Families. — The  Bakuba  are 
morally  a  splendid  people.  I  have  asked  a  number  of 
Bakuba  what  was  their  real  ideal  of  life,  and  they  in- 
variably answered  to  have  a  big  corn  field,  marry  a  good 
wife,  and  have  many  children. 

Babies  Born  White. — We  were  astounded  when  we 
saw  the  first  new-born  baby.     It  was  so  very  light.     But 
in  a  few  weeks  the  youngster  rallied  to  his  colors  and  we 
Were  assured  that  he  would  never  change  again. 

Baby's  Own  House. — No  baby  is  born  in  the  regu- 
larly occupied  house.  A  small  house  is  built  in  the  back 
yard  and  is  surrounded  by  a  fence  of  palm  fronds.  No 
one  is  admitted  into  the  enclosure  but  a  few  women. 
The  new  youngster  receives  a  bath  of  palm  oil,  then  the 
notice  is  given  and  all  the  friends  of  the  family  with 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA's    LAND  125 

jugs  of  cold  water  vie  with  each  other  in  giving  mother 
and  baby  a  shower  bath.  The  drums  beat  and  the  dance 
in  water  and  mud  continues  for  hours. 

Stuffing  the  Baby. — Until  you  get  accustomed  to 
it  you  would  be  horrified  to  see  the  mothers  stuff  their 
young  babies.  The  mother  nurses  the  baby  just  as 
any  mother,  but  she  doesn't  think  that  sufficient.  So 
she  has  by  her  side  a  small  pot  of  soft  corn  pone  and  a 
pot  of  water  or  palm  oil.  She  makes  a  large  pill  from 
the  pone,  dips  it  in  the  water  or  oil,  and  while  the  baby 
is  lying  on  his  back  in  her  lap  these  pills  are  dropped  in 
its  mouth.  Then  the  mother  uses  the  forefinger  to 
force  the  collection  of  pills  down  its  throat.  As  the 
baby  resists  and  kicks,  water  is  poured  down  its  throat 
to  facilitate  the  process.  If  the  baby  strangles,  the 
mother  will  shake  him  up  and  down  a  few  times.  When 
the  feeding  is  over,  he  certainly  looks  "stuffed." 

Baby  Cuts  Teeth. — When  the  baby  is  cutting  teeth, 
the  mother  will  tie  a  small  gourd  around  its  neck  and 
insert  the  pointed  end  into  its  mouth,  or  use  a  piece  of 
crude  rubber. 

When  the  child  is  seven  or  eight  years  old  the  two  front 
teeth  are  knocked  out  by  the  blacksmith  with  a  small 
pestle  and  punch.  When  a  person  gets  sick  he  usually 
clinches  his  teeth.  The  two  front  teeth  are  knocked  out 
so  that  the  mother  or  witch  doctor  may  insert  a  funnel 
and  pour  the  medicine  through. 

Sick  Folk. — I  have  never  known  any  cases  of  measles 
or  mumps  and  only  a  rare  case  of  smallpox.  Fever  and 
pneumonia  are  the  prevalent  maladies.  A  person 
having  fever  lies  out  in  the  hot  sun  and  sweats;  with 
pneumonia  they  give  a  hot  mixture  of  herbs.  If  a  man 
or  woman  has  a  severe  headache,  they  lie  down  before 
their  door  and   the  witch  doctor  walks  up  and  down 


126  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

their  backs,  kneading  them  with  his  feet;  or  the  "doctor" 
will  have  a  hole  like  a  grave  dug  in  the  ground,  sticks 
laid  across  the  top,  a  hot  wood  fire  built  below,  then 
cover  the  fire  with  leaves  and  the  patient  laid  across  the 
sticks  to  smoke. 

If  they  receive  a  cut,  there  are  leaves  which,  when 
torn  open,  exudes  a  juice,  and  when  applied  will  stop 
the  bleeding.  For  headache  a  string  is  usually  tied 
very  tight  around  the  forehead  to  give  relief.  But  a 
permanent  relief  comes  when  the  witch  doctor  cups  the 
temples  by  placing  on  each  a  small  gourd.  This  gourd 
with  one  end  smoothly  cut  off  draws  the  blood,  and  the 
patient  is  soon  better.  They  cup  any  part  of  their 
bodies  where  there  is  pain. 

As  the  Children  Grow  Up. — The  Bakuba  children 
have  many  games  and  but  few  toys.  The  girls  have 
wooden  dolls  made  by  their  fathers,  and  the  boys  make 
from  bamboo  bows  and  arrows.  They  shoot  mice, 
lizards,  grasshoppers,  crickets,  caterpillars,  butterflie 
lightning  bugs,  etc. 

They  make  mud  pies  and  play  market,  and  tie  the 
legs  of  May  and  June  bugs  to  see  them  fly  around  and 
buzz.  They  love  to  play  housekeeping.  They  are 
also  trained  to  do  some  work,  as  bringing  wood,  sweeping, 
or  looking  after  the  younger  ones.  There  are  no  knives, 
forks  or  dishes  to  wash. 

"Baby  talk"  is  not  used  and  the  parents  speak  to  the 
babies  just  as  though  they  were  speaking  to  grown-ups. 

I  have  seen  the  children  in  the  streets  drawing  with 
a  pointed  stick  or  their  finger  on  the  smooth  sand  men, 
leopards,  monkeys,  crocodiles,  birds,  snakes  and  other 
animals. 

Acrobats. — The  boys  make  a  heap  of  clay  and 
sod  it,  and  with  great  speed  run  upon  it  and   turn  a 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA's    LAND  127 

somersault,  lighting  on  their  feet.  A  string  of  them  to- 
gether will  play  "leap  frog,"  and  hide  and  seek  is  great 
sport  with  them.  In  all  these  amusements  they  keep 
up  a  song. 

Taught  to  Fight. — There  is  one  thing  you  will  cer- 
tainly see  them  doing,  both  boys  and  girls,  and  that  is 
beating  their  clinched  fists  into  the  hard  clay  just  as 
hard  as  they  can  drive.  A  year  later  >'Ou  will  see  them 
driving  their  knuckles  against  a  log  or  a  tree.  In  this 
wa\-  they  become  hardened  and  are  used  as  a  weapon 
in  fights  when  they  are  grown.  And,  too,  the>'  can  butt 
like  a  goat,  so  in  their  family  fights  they  not  only  use 
their  fists  but  their  heads. 

Children  of  Nature. — I  spent  hours  at  King 
Lukenga's  and  other  villages  playing  with  the  little  folks 
and  trying  to  find  out  what  the>'  were  thinking  about. 
The_s'  had  a  name  for  the  sun  and  moon,  names  for  very 
brilliant  and  prominent  stars  and  ordinary  ones.  The 
sun  was  the  father  of  the  heavens,  the  moon  was  his 
wife,  and  the  stars  were  their  children.  The  sun  after 
going  down  was  paddled  around  in  a  very  large  canoe 
on  the  great  water  by  men  who  were  more  than  human 
and  started  in  the  skies  again.  They  knew  that  a  year 
was  divided  into  tv.o  general  seasons,  the  rainy  (eight 
moons),  the  dry  (four  moons);  though  even  in  the  rainy 
season  it  doesn't  rain  every  day  and  very  seldom  all 
day  at  any  time;  and  in  the  dry  season  there  is  an  oc- 
casional refreshing  shower. 

They  knew  the  names  of  all  the  lakes,  rivers  antl  small 
streams.  Roots  that  were  good  for  medicine  or  to  eat 
they  knew.  Flowers  and  ferns  were  called  by  name. 
The  names  of  all  the  many  varieties  of  trees,  birds  and 
animals  tliev  knew. 

Kingly    Counsel. — I    was   surprised    to   know    from 


128  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

Maxamalinge,  the  king's  son,  that  every  month  the 
king  had  all  the  little  children  of  the  town  before  him 
and  he  in  turn  would  talk  to  them,  as  a  great  and  good 
father  to  his  own  children. 

The  king  would  have  his  servants  give  to  each  boy  and 
girl  a  handful  of  peanuts.  When  they  were  out  of  the 
king's  quarters  there  was  many  a  scrap  over  these  pea- 
nuts. 

A  Heavy  Storm. — One  night  there  blew  a  heavy 
storm,  and  the  rain  doctor  was  in  it  all.  I  could  hear 
his  whistle  blowing  and  his  loud  voice  calling  to  the  storm 
to  be  still.  Houses  were  unroofed,  trees  blown  down,  and 
fences  wrecked.  The  next  morning,  men  passing  my 
place,  said  to  me  as  they  saluted,  "A  heavy  storm  last 
night."  I  answered,  "Yes,  a  heavy  storm."  At  mid- 
day two  messengers  from  King  Lukenga  approached 
hurriedly  and,  kneeling,  slapped  their  hands  and  said, 
"The  king  calls  for  you."  "What  does  your  king 
want?"  I  answered.  They  replied,  "I  don't  know." 
I  brushed  my  hair,  put  on  my  coat  and  started  with  the 
men.  All  along  the  street  men  were  busy  repairing 
their  houses  and  fences.  Some  saluted  and  some  did 
not.  We  approached  the  king's  high  fence,  passed 
through  a  number  of  gates  and  into  the  king's  presence. 
After  a  few  preliminary  remarks,  he  frowned  and  leaned 
forward,  saying,  "A  heavy  storm  last  night."  I  hastily 
answered,  "Yes,  king,  a  heavy  storm,  and  I  was  fright- 
ened." He  leaned  back  and  said  in  a  questionable 
tone,  "You  frightened?"  Again  I  said,  "Yes."  He 
placed  his  hand  under  his  chin,  looking  me  square  in  the 
eye,  and  asked,  "What  caused  that  storm?"  I  told 
h  m  of  the  present  rainy  season,  of  storms  down  at 
Luebo,  and  naturally  he  would  have  them  here.  The 
king  grew  excited,  made  many  gestures,  and  said  in  a 


CUSTOMS    IN   LUKENGA's   LAND  129 

loud  voice,  "My  witch  doctors  saw  your  followers  at 
our  creek  yesterday  stirring  up  the  water  and  that  caused 
the  storm  which  came  down  last  night." 

I  was  frightened,  not  knowing  what  would  follow,  so 
I  answered  (as  I  had  often  heard  his  own  people)  in  a 
low,  slow  voice,  "It  is  true,  king,  my  people  were  at  the 
creek,  but  they  were  washing  my  clothes  and  it  could 
not  cause  a  storm."  I  continued,  "They  used  in  wash- 
ing what  we  call  in  the  foreign  country  soap,  and  it 
caused  the  whiteness  and  foam  on  the  water,  but  it  is 
something  innocent  and  cannot  cause  a  storm." 

The  king  leaned  back  and  was  again  calm  and  re- 
marked in  a  pleasant  tone  of  voice,  "Well,  don't  have 
your  clothes  washed  any  more." 

They  Had  Never  Heard  a  Gun. — I  had  now  been 
at  Lukenga's  for  a  month.  I  had  no  calendar,  but  one 
of  my  natives  was  time-keeper,  daily  tying  a  knot  in  a 
string  which  was  worn  around  his  neck,  and  every 
seventh  day  we  kept  as  the  Sabbath.  The  people 
had  seen  my  gun,  but  had  never  heard  it.  I  ventured 
out  one  day  to  shoot  some  guinea  fowls  in  the  manioc 
fields,  and  snipe  at  a  stream  a  half  mile  away.  I  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  the  game  and  returning.  The  next 
day  King  Lukenga  sent  for  me  and  I  was  not  so  timid 
as  before.  I  went,  and  he  told  me  that  farmers  had  come 
and  complained  that  their  crops  of  corn  would  die  if  I 
continued  to  shoot  over  their  fields.  I  consented  at 
once  to  shoot  no  more,  explaining  to  the  king  that  I 
would  do  nothing  to  offend  them. 

Trouble  at  a  Funeral. — On  the  burial  day  of  one 
of  the  villagers  I  saw  a  number  of  men  coming  down  the 
street  with  a  slave  woman,  whom  they  were  having 
trouble  forcing  along.  I  stepped  out  and  inquired  the 
trouble,  and  they  explained  that  the  owner  of  the  slave 


< 


i 


I 


130  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

had  died  and  they  were  going  to  bury  her  with  the  dead. 
I  protested  and  ventured  to  rescue  the  woman  and  for 
about  ten  minutes  the  Bakuba,  my  people  and  I  were 
tied  up  in  a  scramble.  We  were  overpowered  and  on 
they  went  with  their  victim. 

A  Victim  of  Lightning. — It  was  reported  after  a 
storm  that  a  woman  had  been  struck  by  lightning.  I 
went  out  to  see  her,  knowing  their  custom  of  giving  the 
poisonous  cup  to  find  out  the  person  who  had  sent  the 
lightning.  I  kept  a  close  watch  on  the  witch  doctors, 
but  I  presume  because  I  had  preached  so  much  against 
the  wicked  custom  they  did  not  have  a  public  test. 
I  fear  though  they  went  off  secretly  into  the  bushes  or 
high  grass  and  carried  out  their  custom. 

Under  a  Fatal  Tree. — The  report  came  one  day 
from  a  market  town  far  away  that  twenty  persons  had 
been  shocked  by  lightning;  some. were  killed.  They 
took  refuge  under  a  tree  from  a  heavy  thunder  storm. 
In  their  minds  some  enemy  sent  the  storm. 

Infected  Money. — One  day  when  out  walking  with 
some  of  the  villagers  I  saw  a  few  cowrie  shells  and  began 
picking  them  up.  My  friends  at  once  bade  me  put  them 
down.  They  explained  that  some  sick  person  had 
rubbed  the  cowrie  on  their  own  affected  body  and  thrown 
them  by  the  wayside,  and  the  person  picking  them  up 
would  catch  the  disease  and  the  affected  one  would  get 
well. 

Mr.  Lapsley's  Bible. — I  was  often  with  King 
Lukenga,  always  taking  along  Mr.  Lapsley's  Bible; 
it  seemed  easier  for  me  to  read,  for  there  were  marks  in 
it  from  Genesis  to  Revelation.  Some  of  the  most  choice 
and  striking  texts  were  underscored  twice.  The  mar- 
gins were  filled  with  helpful  suggestions. 

The  king  always  wanted   to  handle  it  and   turn   the 


CUSTOMS    IN   LUKENGA's   LAND  131 

leaves.  He  had  never,  and  neither  had  all  his  prede- 
cessors, ever  seen  a  book  of  any  description,  nor  even  a 
scrap  of  paper.  The  book  he  was  handHng  was  the 
sword  of  the  spirit,  the  light  of  the  world.  That  book, 
as  little  as  the  king  knew  about  it,  was  the  "Lamp" 
that  should  guide  his  people  over  the  King's  highway  to 
victory.  Think  of  it,  the  first  Bible  in  all  the  Kasai 
region!  All  of  my  preaching  to  the  king  was  in  the  way 
of  conversation.  A  number  of  times  he  had  his  wives 
to  assemble  and  in  those  cases  I  stood  up.  At  several 
of  those  meetings  the  king  asked  us  to  sing  again  "We 
Are  Marching  to  Zion,  Beautiful  Zion,"  etc.  He  did 
not  understand  a  word  of  it;  the  hymn  was  one  of  Mr. 
Lapsley's  translations  in  "Ke  Keti,"  the  preaching  was 
in  Bakuba.  We  had  no  translated  hymns  in  Bakuba. 
Though  they  did  not  know  the  words,  there  was  always 
a  serious  and  pleasant  response. 

Prying  into  the  King's  Customs. — My  interfer- 
ing with  the  men  who  were  dragging  the  woman  to  her 
death  had  been  reported  to  Lukenga.  He  mentioned 
it  to  me,  saying,  "The  burying  of  the  living  with  the  dead 
was  far  beyond  the  Bakete,  who  only  bury  goats  with 
their  dead,  and  that  is  why  we  bury  slaves;  they  serve 
us  here  and  then  go  with  us  on  the  journey  to  wait  on 
us  there."  I  told  the  king  in  the  strongest  language  I 
could  command  that  it  was  wrong  without  the  least 
shadow  of  justification.  I  tried  to  prove  to  him  that 
the  poisonous  cup  was  a  very  cruel  and  unjust  practice 
and  there  were  no  witches.  And  if  they  gave  the  poison 
to  anyone  whose  stomach  was  not  easily  moved  they 
would  die.  The  king  thought  me  very  foolish,  saying, 
"If  a  person  is  innocent  they  can  never  die." 

You  Grow  Indignant. — Seeing  these  awful  customs 
practiced  by  these  people  for  ages  makes  you  indignant 


/ 


/ 


132  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

and  depressed  and  also  fills  you  with  pity.  Only  by 
preaching  God's  word,  having  faith,  patience  and  love 
will  we  eradicate  the  deep-rooted  evil.  Everything  to 
them  is  run  by  chance,  and  there  are  evil  spirits  and 
witches  everywhere. 

Preaching  in  tlie  Markets. — The  people  from  the 
country  and  surrounding  towns  made  the  markets 
and  they  would  always  cease  bartering  for  a  short  while 
as  we  held  divine  service.  In  this  way  the  word  spread 
and  many  people  came  long  distances  just  to  see  and 
to  hear. 

Enlightened  But  in  Darkness. — I  was  astounded 
to  find  a  people  in  Central  Africa  so  intelligent  and  yet 
so  far  from  the  truth.  The  kilt  or  gathered  skirts  worn 
by  men  and  women  are  made  from  the  palm  fibre  on 
their  own  hand  looms.  They  all  wear  belts,  many  with 
beads  and  cowries  tastefully  worked  in  them.  The 
men  wear  small  conical-shaped  hats,  kept  on  to  a  tuft 
of  hair  by  a  long  pin.  Before  a  man  takes  his  wife  he 
must,  bearing  a  present,  proceed  to  King  Lukenga,  seek 
an  audience,  and  have  the  king  with  his  own  hands 
place  the  hat  on  his  head  and  run  the  pin  through.  No 
young  man  is  permitted  to  wear  a  hat  or  marry  a  girl, 
it  matters  not  how  many  days'  journey  he  lives  from  the 
capital,  until  he  sees  the  king  and  receives  the  blessing 
by  the  hat  process. 

Industries. — Blacksmiths  were  busy  turning  out 
axes,  hoes,  knives,  spears  and  ■  razors.  Others  made 
mats,  rugs,  baskets,  hats,  cups,  spoons  and  work  boxes. 
Many  made  fishing  seines  and  nets  for  catching  animals 
in  the  chase. 

Provision  for  the  King. — Every  man  of  every  tribe 
in  the  king's  country  is  taxed,  and  at  stated  times  his 
representatives  in  every  village  collect  the  cowrie  shells 


CUSTOMS    IN   LUKENGA's    LAND  133 

and  report  to  the  capital.  One  tusk  of  every  elephant 
belongs  to  Lukenga.  The  skins  of  all  leopards  killed 
are  collected  and  sent  to  the  king.  The  fishermen  who 
live  near  the  river  and  small  lakes  send  up  a  certain 
number  of  baskets  of  dried  fish  each  year. 

The  hunters,  Batwa  people,  send  cured  elephant, 
deer  and  monkey  meat.  The  Baxabwa,  who  live  on  the 
great  plains,  at  a  certain  season  run  down  partridges, 
catch  them  alive,  and  send  baskets  full  to  the  king. 
Lukenga  has  a  large  coop  made  of  bamboo  splits,  and 
these  birds  are  kept  and  fed  for  him  and  his  family. 

There  is  a  time  for  the  swarming  of  the  red  locust. 
They  settle  down  over  the  country  by  the  millions. 
These  are  gathered,  scalded,  and  sent  in  baskets  to  the 
king.  Caterpillars  and  grasshoppers  are  also  delicacies 
fit  for  a  king's  table.  Manioc,  millet,  corn,  peas  and 
peanuts  were  stored  away  in  abundance  at  Lukenga's. 
Lukenga  never  slept  hungry. 

A  Yearly  Feast. — I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  at  the 
king's  at  a  yearly  "get  together."  There  were  repre- 
sentatives from  all  of  the  king's  villages  throughout 
the  land.  They  brought  with  them  their  musical  in- 
struments— drums,  ivory  horns,  harps,  etc.  They 
brought  their  best  clothes  in  long  boxes  made  from  bark. 

When  the  houses  were  all  filled  they  slept  under  large 
sheds.  The  streets  were  alive.  You  could  hear  them 
inquiring  of  friends  of  their  relatives  in  distant  towns. 
Everybody  wore  a  big  smile  and  was  happy. 

The  women  had  been  to  the  creek  and  rubbed  the 
sides  of  their  feet  many,  many  times  against  a  stone 
until  there  was  a  white  stripe  all  the  way  around. 
They  wore  a  copper  ring  on  their  big  toe  and  walked 


134  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

pigeon-toed.  The  style  was  to  make  short  steps  with 
the  big  toe  elevated.  Garlands  of  ferns  and  flowers 
were  on  their  heads  and  around  their  necks. 

Daily,  for  two  weeks  they  gathered  in  the  big  square, 
sitting  in  a  great  circle.  The  king  and  a  few  of  his  wives 
and  sons  sat  on  an  elevated  covered  bamboo  platform. 
The  delegates  from  each  town  sat  together  with  their 
chief  in  front.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight!  The  master 
of  ceremonies  ran  into  the  center,  saluted  the  king  with 
the  royal  mace,  then  laid  it  before  the  chief  of  a  village. 

The  chief  arose,  made  a  few  acrobatic  movements, 
and  from  the  center  of  the  circle  saluted  the  king  and 
in  a  loud  voice  reported  the  health  and  prosperity  of  his 
town,  told  of  the  crops,  the  births  and  deaths,  and  then 
danced  alone  to  the  delight  and  amusement  of  all  the 
people. 

As  the  evening  drew  near  the  formal  ceremonies  broke 
up  with  the  music  playing,  the  people  singing  and  every- 
body dancing. 

As  I  walked  unaccompanied  from  the  crowd,  I  prayed 
that  the  day  would  soon  come  when  these  same  lips 
would  be  singing  another  song,  and  there  would  be  an- 
other report  of  births,  health  and  growth  of  souls  to 
another  King. 

Preparation  for  Death. — As  soon  as  a  boy  is  large 
enough  to  work,  he  is  taught  mat  weaving.  He  must 
first  make  dozens  of  balls  of  string  from  the  palm  fibre. 
Then  day  by  day  he  cuts  the  long  bamboo  poles  into 
narrow  splits.  As  he  makes  these  splits  they  are  tied 
up  under  his  father's  shed  or  under  the  eaves  of  his 
house  from  the  dampness.  When  he  has  sufficient,  he 
begins  under  instruction  of  his  father,  brother  or  a  friend 
to  weave  his  mats  against  the  day  of  his  burial. 

When  these  very  large  mats  are  completed  a  corn  cob 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKENGA's    LAND  135 

is  stuck  in  each  end  to  keep  out  the  rats,  they  are  then 
carefully  rolled  up  in  palm  leaves  to  prevent  their  being 
soiled  or  smoked. 

At  death  these  mats  are  cut  and  securely  fastened 
to  a  framework  of  strong  bamboo  in  the  shape  of  a  large 
telescoping  box,  the  coffin. 

They  Know  Death. — I  only  mention  one  out  of 
scores  I  have  seen  die.  Nnyminym  took  to  his  bed. 
The  witch  doctors  daily  for  a  week  gathered  hands  full 
of  ashes  from  his  neighbor's  houses  and  rubbed  on  his 
stomach  to  counteract  anything  poisonous  he  had  eaten 
in  these  homes.  I  visited  the  patient;  also  treated  him, 
but  Nnyminym  grew  weak  and  was  moved  from  his 
bed  to  a  mat  on  the  dry  ground  under  his  shed  in  front 
of  his  door.  I  talked  to  him  of  having  faith  in  God,  but 
it  was  all  so  vague  to  him.  Earlier  than  my  usual  time 
for  calling,  his  wife  sent  for  me,  saying  that  Nnyminym 
was  dead.  Knowing  their  custom,  I  was  not  alarmed, 
but  responded  at  once. 

I  found  the  family  bathing  him  and  putting  on  his 
burial  clothes.  I  remarked,  "You  are  hast>',  I  fear,  in 
dressing  him  for  burial,"  but  the  wife  remarked  with 
grief,  "No,  he  will  be  dead  soon."  When  they  had  fixed 
his  hair,  shaved  his  face  and  shoulders,  anointed  his 
body  with  palm  oil  and  adjusted  his  legs  back  under 
him,  they  all  sat  in  a  semi-circle.  His  sister  sat  behind 
him  holding  his  back.  This  was  all  done  in  a  business- 
like way  and  in  order  and  quietness. 

Debtors  to  the  Dead. — The  wife  asked  in  a  calm, 
gentle  tone,  "What  of  your  debts  unknown  to  us?" 
Nnyminym  answered  calmly,  "I  have  settled  all  my 
debts;  but  listen,  I  will  tell  you  the  names  of  those  owing 
me,"  and  without  effort  he  called  name  after  name  as  the 
wife    broke   small    pieces   of    bamboo    for   each    name. 


136  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

These  pieces  of  bamboo  were  kept  and  the  debts  col- 
lected  after  death. 

Watching  Death. —  Now  and  then  Nnyminym  in 
his  sitting  attitude  looked  at  his  hands  growing  pale, 
watched  the  heaving  of  his  breast,  looked  at  his  family 
and  friends  before  him,  drew  a  long  breath  as  though 
very  tired,  and  actually  watched  death  steal  his  life 
away.  As  soon  as  his  eyes  were  closed  a  scream  went 
up  from  his  wife,  and  the  rest  of  his  family  joined  in. 
A  friend  of  the  family  took  his  sister's  place  of  holding 
his  back. 

Then,  as  is  the  custom,  all  the  town  came  with  slow 
steps  and  moaning  song,  hands  extended  in  the  air  or 
folded  over  the  head  to  weep  with  the  bereft.  They  all 
cried;  those  who  really  cannot  cry  squeeze  out  tears, 
anyway.     They  must  cry. 

In  State. — The  family  friend  made  an  elevated  seat 
like  a  large  armchair  and  removed  Nnyminym  from  the 
low  mat  to  the  chair.  They  then  placed  on  his  head  a 
new  hat  and  an  elephant  tail  in  his  hand;  the  latter  to 
show  his  strength.  While  the  men  on  the  spot  were 
busy  making  his  oblong  telescoping  coffin,  the  people 
passed  in  review  moaning.  The  whole  night  was  spent 
in  weeping  and  wailing. 

The  Funeral  Dance. — The  next  day  friends  from 
neighboring  villages  joined  with  these  and  in  their  best 
clothes  danced  all  day.  These  dances  are  to  cheer  up 
the  bereaved  family  and  to  run  away  evil  spirits. 

Smooth  Graves  Eight  Feet  Deep. — The  third 
day  six  men  bore  away  to  the  graveyard  just  outside  of 
the  town  Nnyminym's  remains.  The  family  and  friends 
followed  quietly  behind.  They  gently  lowered  the  coffin 
in  the  grave  by  hooks  in  long  bamboo  poles  and  covered 
it  with  banana  leaves.     The  women  with  their  hands 


CUSTOMS    IN    LUKKNGA's    LAND  137 

put  in  the  first  clay  entirely  covering  the  leaves;  then  the 
men  with  hoes  did  the  rest.  A  carved  tusk  of  ivory  was 
placed  at  his  head.  The  wife  and  friends  return  to  the 
town,  and  when  the  widow  enters  her  gate  she  is  not 
again  to  appear  on  the  street  for  a  year,  remaining  in 
solitude  and  with  personal  friends.  She  can  eat  only 
parched  corn  and  peanuts. 

Highly  Civilized. — I  grew  very  fond  of  the  Bakuba 
and  it  was  reciprocated.  They  were  the  finest  looking 
race  I  had  seen  in  Africa,  dignified,  graceful,  courageous, 
honest,  with  an  open,  smiling  countenance  and  really 
hospitable.  Their  knowledge  of  weaving,  embroidering, 
wood  carving  and  smelting  was  the  highest  in  equatorial 
Africa. 


138  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 


Chapter  X. 
Back  to  Luebo. 

Denied  a  Leave  of  Absence. — I  told  King  Lukenga 
that  I  loved  him  and  his  people,  and  that  it  was  a  real 
pleasure  to  live  in  his  town,  but  that  his  subjects  at 
Luebo  were  looking  for  my  return,  and  we  had  started 
a  school  and  other  good  work  down  there,  and  I  desired 
to  continue  it.  The  king  replied  to  my  request  that  he 
wanted  me  to  remain  with  him  and  not  to  return  again 
to  Luebo.  After  a  number  of  appeals  in  succession  my 
request  was  granted  with  the  provision  that  I  return 
to  him  in  the  near  future. 

Getting  Ready  to  Move. — I  mentioned  to  my  fol- 
lowers that  we  would  soon  be  returning  to  Luebo;  they 
were  glad  and  yet  they  were  not.  Their  stay  at  Lukenga's 
had  been  exceedingly  pleasant.  They  had  eaten  more 
hogs,  dogs,  goats  and  chickens  than  ever  before,  and 
were  just  as  fat  and  greasy  as  could  be. 

A  Beautiful  Bird. — I  was  tempted  time  and  again 
to  ask  the  king  for  his  beautiful  gray  parrot.  It  was 
always  put  by  the  servants  on  the  outer  high  fence. 
Every  morning  when  anyone  approached  the  king's 
gate  it  would  call  out,  "Batie  by  ne;  Batie  by  ne!" 
(People  are  coming;  people  are  coming).  The  bird 
was  not  only  beautiful,  but  could  talk  fluently,  sing, 
whistle  and  crow. 

A  Reluctant  Farewell. — My  men  single  file  moved 
forward  loaded  down  with  Bakuba  curios,  cloth,  rugs, 
masks,  mats,  hats,  cups  and  plenty  of  food.  The  part- 
ing with   King  Lukenga  was  touching.     He  was  king. 


BACK    TO    LUEBO 


139 


but  he  had  a  kindly  heart,   and    I   was    removing    from 
those  thousands  the  only  light  they  had  ever  seen  and  »/ 


A  DWARF   (BATWA). 


was  leaving   them   in   their  usual  darkness.     The   king 
furnished   us  with   two  guides  and   his  royal   mace  for 


140  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

safe  conduct.  Hundreds  of  men,  women  and  children 
followed  us  out  on  the  plain,  waving,  singing  and  shout- 
ing a  farewell. 

A  Large  Lake. — We  returned  by  quite  a  different 
route.  One  hour's  march  from  the  capital  we  came  to  a 
large  lake.  Around  it  the  growth  of  flowers  and  ferns 
was  beautiful,  and  the  air  was  fragrant  from  blooming 
trees.  Tracks  of  elephants,  buffalo  and  deer  were 
everywhere.  There  were  great  mud  holes  where  the 
elephants  came  to  wallow  and  play. 

One  of  the  men  in  picking  berries  came  across  (as  he 
thought  and  said)  a  bundle  of  snakes.  I  discharged  my 
double-barrel  shotgun  at  the  horrid  fold,  but  it  was  only 
one  immense  python.  The  men  cut  large  hunks  of 
it  for  food  on  the  journey. 

Our  first  day  out  we  camped  in  a  small  village,  Ibunch. 
Many  of  the  villagers  knew  me,  as  they  had  sold  me  eggs 
at  the  capital. 

Bartering  with  Batwa. — I  saw  a  number  of  Batwa, 
a  species  of  the  dwarf  family.  They  had  baskets  full 
of  white  ants,  dried  elephant  meat  and  green  corn.  I 
bought  a  number  of  gray  parrots  and  two  live  monkeys. 
These  dwarfs  live  in  the  forest  and  spend  their  time  in 
hunting.  We  were  up  and  off  very  early  next  morning, 
made  a  heavy  march,  passed  through  many  villages, 
making  only  a  short  stop  for  our  guides  to  tell  the  vil- 
lagers who  we  were. 

Through  a  Dark  Pass. — There  was  one  forest  that 
seemed  interminable.  It  was  damp  and  dark,  and  it 
took  us  four  hours'  hard  marching  on  a  narrow  grassy 
trail  to  pass  through.  Elephants  were  so  numerous 
that  I  fired  my  rifle  at  intervals  to  frighten  them  away. 
We  camped  for  the  night  at  Suembuya.  The  people 
gathered  around  in  the  evening  to  get  a  peep  at  us. 


BACK    TO    LUEBO  141 

A  Nimrod. — They  pointed  out  one  NiManini,  who 
had  just  that  day  shot  a  leopard  with  his  bow  and  arrow. 
The  skin  was  beautiful. 

There  was  a  palm  tree  in  the  middle  of  the  town, 
which  had  on  its  limbs  certainly  not  less  than  600  swing- 
ing birds'  nests,  and  all  the  trees  were  alive  with  the  song 
and  chatter  of  these  pretty  yellow  birds. 

Taking  Pills. — The  people  saw  me  taking  pills  and 
asked  what  they  were.  I  told  them  that  these  made  me 
strong  for  the  journey.  At  once  they  begun  to  ask  for 
them,  so  I  dealt  out  according  to  the  size  of  the  person 
from  one  to  five  compound  cathartics.  They  did  not 
wait  for  water,  but  ate  them,  and  seemed  to  enjoy  them 
very  much. 

Our  sleep  at  Suembuya  was  broken  by  the  yelping 
jackals,  and  the  people  told  us  the  next  day  that  this 
village  was  in  the  zone  of  jackals,  hyenas  and  leopards. 
In  all  the  villages  that  we  passed  through  we  had  sing- 
ing and  service. 

Forward,  March! — On  we  marched  over  plains, 
through  forests,  swamps  and  across  streams.  We 
passed  through  fields  of  corn  and  cassava  three  and  four 
miles  long. 

Big  Traders. — We  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night  in 
Balong,  and  natives  came  from  three  nearby  villages  to 
barter  with  us.  They  brought  dozens  of  large  vampire 
bats,  dried  fish  and  eels,  and  stringed  pods  of  red  and 
black    pepper. 

The  people  were  so  pleased  to  have  us  and  begged 
that  we  stay  in  their  village  for  many  days.  They 
wanted  to  exchange  parrots,  monkeys  and  other  things 
for  cowries,  beads  and  salt.  I  am  certain  I  could  have 
bought  fifty  tame  red-tailed  parrots,  the  most  of  them 
talkers,  speaking  the  native  tongue. 


142  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

No  (Tsetse)  Flies. — In  all  my  wanderings  in  this 
territory,  by  streams,  through  forests  and  over  plains, 
I  did  not  see  a  tsetse  fly.  How  blessed  these  people 
are,  being  separated  from  the  bearer  of  the  deadly  germ 
which  causes  so  much  sleeping  sickness  and  death  on 
the  lower  Congo. 

Densely  Populated. — I  found  on  inquiring  that  in 
all  directions  there  were  thousands  of  Bakuba  in- 
habitants. I  wanted  so  much  to  visit  them,  and  having 
authority  from  their  king  there  would  be  no  trouble. 

On  the  edge  of  the  town  there  was  a  very  big  de- 
pression in  the  earth.  A  villager  explained  it  to  be  a 
driver  ant  den,  in  which  the  weaker  of  triplets  was 
thrown.  By  this  sacrifice  the  remaining  two  babies 
grew  strong. 

There  were  large  trails  leading  out  toward  the  valleys 
and  hills,  a  sign  of  many  people. 

Transmitting  Messages. — While  at  Suembuya  I 
heard  one  of  their  great  wooden  drums  going,  beating 
out  the  dots  and  dashes,  which  were  heard  and  under- 
stood by  villagers  widely  separated.  Messages  are 
picked  up  and  transmitted  to  any  part  of  the  country 
by  this  crude  way. 

Kept  Late  Hours. — Though  in  dangerous  villages, 
because  of  prowling  animals,  we  sat  each  night  by  a  big 
camp  fire  with  a  crowd  of  interested  and  inquisitive 
natives  until  midnight.  Men  and  women  asked  ques^ 
tions.  "How  do  you  get  to  the  .foreign  country?" 
"What  do  you  eat?"  "What  language  do  you  speak?" 
"Talk  some  of  it  for  us."  As  soon  as  I  answered  one 
question  they  had  another  ready.  At  some  of  my  an- 
swers they  laughed  heartily.  When  I  tried  to  tell  them 
that  we  had  a  season  of  the  year  that  it  got  so  cold  you 
could  walk  over  streams  without  breaking  through,  and 


BACK   TO    LUEBO 


143 


that  some  of  our  houses  were  taller  than  a  palm  tree, 
they  incredulously  shook  their  heads.  They  had  never 
felt  a  cold  day  or  seen  a  high  house.  I  told  them  how 
we  bought  land  and  sometimes  water,  too. 

Before  I  bade  them  good-night  I  showed  them  the 
Bible  and  gave  them  "History"  (His  Story),  the  story 
of  Jesus.  It  was  wonderful;  they  did  not  understand  it. 
But  some  day,  through  some  missionary,  the  Holy 
Spirit  will  make  it  plain. 


LAPSLEY  MEMORIAL  CHURCH,   IBANJE. 


Think  of  it,  thousands  upon  thousands  of  people 
throughout  this  valley  have  never  heard  a  word. 

Ibanche. — The  people  of  Ibanche  heard  of  our  com- 
ing and  came  far  out  into  the  jungle  to  meet  us.  Near 
the  town  court  house  (a  big  open  shed)  I  had  my  tent 
stretched  and  lay  down  for  a  rest,  for  my  body  was  tired 
and  my  feet  sore  from  the  hard  marches. 

My  rest  was  short,  for  the  people  fell  over  the  tent 
ropes,  trying  to  get  a  peep  inside.  I  had  my  dinner  of 
chicken  fried  with  palm  oil,  boiled  greens  seasoned  with 
palm  oil,   and   red   pepper  and   corn   pone  greased  over 


144  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

with  palm  oil.  Then  I  took  a  walk  up  and  down  the 
two  streets,  followed  by  scores  of  happy  men,  women 
and  children.  The  houses,  with  a  few  exceptions,  were 
not  as  large  as  those  at  King  Lukenga's,  but  built  on  the 
same  style.  Most  of  them  had  small  trees  growing  at 
each  end  and  strong  cords  around  the  trees  and  fastened 
to  the  end  of  the  houses  to  steady  them  in  storms. 

The  Witches'  House. — The  witches'  house  was  a 
small  shed  in  the  center  of  the  town  under  which  the 
condemned  person  sat  until  market  day,  when  poison 
was  publicly  given.  They  told  me  that  hundreds  of 
persons  had  sat  under  the  fetich  covered  shed.  I  asked 
if  the  accused  were  not  afraid  and  often  ran  away. 
They  were  surprised  at  the  inquiry  and  replied  with 
emphasis,  "No,  never!  They  are  mad  because  they  have 
been  accused  and  are  anxious  to  drink  the  poison  to  prove 
their  innocence."  Poor,  deluded  people  without  God 
and  the  truth. 

Many  Villages. — I  visited  the  villages  of  Bongomba 
and  Boincala,  which  were  nearby.  I  was  told  that  there 
were  many  other  villages  across  the  creek,  and  Ibanj 
was  a  great  market  center  for  all  this  district. 

Nearing  Home. — The  guides  told  me  that  before 
us  lay  six  large  Bakete  towns,  Bena  Kabu  Bena  Nsan- 
gala,  Bena  Kabash,  Bena  Kapunga,  Bena  Kalamba, 
and  Bena  Kasenga;  and  after  passing  these  we  would 
be  back  at  Luebo.  There  was  but  one  stream  lying 
between  and  one  very  large  and  dark  forest  through 
which  we  would  pass. 

Under  the  Palms. — I  had  been  away  from  Luebo 
for  a  long  time  and  was  thinking  of  the  little  day  school 
and  daily  Bible  lesson  under  the  palm  tree  at  Luebo. 
Those  few  little  children,  started  in  the  alphabet  marked 


BACK    TO    LUEBO  145 

fresh  every  day  in  the  sand  by   Mr.   Lapsley  are  still 
there. 

The  first  daily  Bible  class,  those  same  little  ones 
who  daily  sat  on  mats  and  eagerly  and  inquiringly  looked 
into  the  missionary's  face  as  he  patiently  and  most 
earnestly  gave  them  their  first  lessons  of  Jesus,  are 
waiting  still. 

Bena  Kabau. — After  an  hour's  march  across  a 
plain  we  were  overtaken  in  the  bush  by  a  heavy  rain, 
which  lasted  forty  minutes.  But  we  marched  on;  in 
fact,  there  was  nothing  else  to  do  but  to  keep  going. 
When  we  reached  Kabau  we  took  the  chickens  out  of 
the  baskets  and  tied  them  by  their  legs  and  turned  the 
parrots  into  the  street,  then  stood  up  ourselves  in  the 
sun  to  dry.  There  were  plenty  of  sheep  and  goats  in 
Kabau.  The  sheep  have  no  wool  on  them.  The  little 
children  brought  baskets  full  of  berries  resembling  very 
much  strawberries.  Under  the  town  shed  there  were 
a  number  of  travelers,  Zappo  Zap  (cannibals).  They 
were  from  the  Baluba  country  far  south  and  traveling 
north  with  a  caravan  of  slaves  to  sell  in  exchange  for 
ivory,  rubber,  cam  wood  and  goats. 

No  Corn. — I  tried  to  get  corn  for  my  people  and  ray- 
self,  but  could  not  buy  any.  These  people  raise  and 
eat  cassava,  a  roqt  resembling  a  long  sweet  potato. 
When  it  is  dried,  beaten  into  flour  and  boiled  it  resembles 
very  much  a  big  ball  of  putty,  though  it  is  their  staple 
food — bread.  Bits  are  pinched  off  with  the  fingers, 
worked  with  the  hands  into  small  balls  and  dipped  into 
palm  oil  or  gravy  and  swallowed  without  chewing. 

Freaks  of  Nature. — I  saw  two  Albinos,  a  large  boy 
and  a  man.  They  had  rough  white  skin  and  wooly 
hair  and  very  peculiar  pinkish-gray  eyes.     They  seemed 


146 


PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN   CONGO 


entirely  out  of  place.  It  made  a  shiver  run  through  you 
to  look  at  them. 

We  had  our  song  and  preaching  service  early  in  the 
afternoon.     They  had  never  heard  of  Jesus — never! 

Traveling  Minstrel. — At  5  o'clock  about  200  Bakete 
people   from   Bena  Chitala  came  into   the   town.     The 


SHAVING  WITH  A  CHISEL. 

women  carried  on  their  heads  long  baskets,  in  which  was 
stored  their  clean  loin  clothes,  strings  of  beads,  cowrie 
anklets  and  their  husbands'  dress-up  costumes.  The 
men  had  their  spears,  bows,  arrows,  ivory  horns  and 
drums  of  many  sizes.  A  very  large  camp  fire  was  built 
in  the  middle  of  the  street  and  they  danced  until  day- 
light. 

Preparing  for  the  Last  Dash. — Early  in  the  morn- 
ing I  borrowed  a  native  razor.     They  are  made  by  the 


BACK   TO    LUEBO  147 

blacksmith  from  steel  and  look  very  much  like  a  thin 
chisel.  You  wet  your  face  with  clear  water  and  by  many 
painful  downward  strokes  you  "chisel"  off  your  beard. 

Threading  Through  the  Forest.— After  leaving 
Kabau  we  passed  through  two  large  villages  with  short 
stops.  Our  guides  said,  "Now  we  have  a  real  forest." 
It  took  us  three  hours  single  file  following  the  narrow 
winding  trail  to  pass  through.  There  were  but  few 
spots  where  the  rays  of  the  sun  had  ever  touched.  In 
the  denseness  of  the  forest  we  did  not  even  hear  the  sing- 
ing of  a  bird.  Scarcely  a  word  was  spoken  until  we 
emerged  into  the  bright  sunlight. 

A  Town  Moving.— We  found  one  of  the  villages 
on  our  route  (Bena  Kalamba)  moving.  The  witch 
doctors,  the  lawyers,  and  all  the  important  men  had 
decided  that  the  village  had  become  unhealthy.  Notice 
had  been  given  to  the  people  months  before,  and  on  the 
set  day  each  man  and  his  family  by  taking  his  house 
apart  in  sections  moved  to  a  spot  previously  selected. 
In  moving  the  location  is  the  same  in  the  new  village 
as  it  was  in  the  old.  So  it  is  no  trouble  for  a  visitor  to 
find  his  friends  in  their  new  homes. 

The  whole  town  moves  a  mile  away  in  a  day,  puts  up 
houses  and  occupies  them  when  the  sun  goes  down. 
All  Bakete  villages  move  every  ten  years. 

Dispatching  a  Messenger.— When  four  miles  from 
Luebo  I  sent  a  runner  to  let  our  people  know  that  we 
were  coming.  Our  man,  N'Goma,  though  loaded  with 
good  things  from  the  king's  country,  struck  a  trot  and 
soon  disappeared. 

On  we  marched  across  the  hot  plain.  In  the  distance 
were  familiar  scenes  of  forest  and  hills  beyond  our 
Mission  and  the  Lulua  river.  We  were  filled  with  joy 
and  gladness.     God  had  been  mighty  good  to  us. 


148  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

A  Hearty  Welcome. — They  are  coming!  They  are 
coming!  cried  one  of  our  men,  and  they  struck  up  a  native 
song,  singing  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  And  away 
yonder  was  a  crowd  like  a  great  cloud  with  palms  mov- 
ing in  their  hands.  They,  too,  started  a  song  as  they 
vied  in  speed  with  one  another  over  the  plain.  For  half 
an  hour  we  greeted  one  another.  They  shook  our 
hands,  caught  us  around  the  waist,  and  many  expressed 
their  joy  by  letting  the  tears  flow. 

The  caravan  was  soon  relieved  of  their  loads,  for  our 
friends — men,  women  and  children,  bore  them  away. 

No  Place  Like  Home. — In  a  little  while  I  was  seated 
in  a  reclining  chair  on  my  broad,  cool  veranda. 

Making  My  Report. — The  next  day  I  called  all 
the  people,  Bakete  and  Baluba,  together  and  briefly 
made  a  report  of  our  wanderings  in  the  "Forbidden 
Land"  of  King  Lukenga. 


HIS    KINGDOM    COMING    IN   CONGO  149 


Chapter  XI. 
His  Kingdom  Coming  in  Congo. 

A  Retrospective  View. — From  the  time  Mr.  Lapsley 
and  I  landed  on  the  Congo  five  years  elapsed  before 
there  was  a  convert. 

Those  were  great  days,  getting  acquainted  with  mis- 
sionaries and  methods. 

The  walk  of  260  miles  to  Stanley  Pool;  the  return  trip 
and  across  on  the  north  bank  to  Manyanga;  journeying 
to  Bolobo  by  the  steamer  Henry  Reed ;  the  Kwango  and 
Kwilu  expedition  in  the  rainy  season  with  two  large 
canoes;  the  exceedingly  difficult  trip  of  thirty  days  by  a 
small  steamer  up  the  Kasai  to  Luebo;  learning  the  lan- 
guage by  sounds  and  signs;  making  treaties  with  chiefs 
and  tribes;  our  explorations  over  land  south  to  Malanje, 
the  region  of  the  Lulua  and  the  cannibal  tribe  Zappo  Zap; 
adapting  and  adjusting  ourselves  to  inferior  environ- 
ments; the  imparting  of  His  great  and  glorious  message 
to  these  weak  and  warped  minds  by  signs,  language  and 
life  was  a  joy  far  more  than  we  could  possibly  express. 

Twenty-six  years  ago  two  young  men  of  the  Southern 
Presbyterian  Church  went  to  Africa  as  missionaries, 
landed  at  Luebo,  Congo  Beige,  with  tent,  a  few  articles 
of  clothing  and  food. 

They  found  the  natives  confused  with  many  family 
feuds  and  tribal  fights.  There  was  not  a  married  couple 
(from  the  Christian  standpoint)  in  all  the  land.  They 
h  ad  never  seen  a  book.     Not  a  prayer  had  ever  been 


150 


PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 


offered  or  a  hymn  sung.     The  Sabbath  day  was  not 
known.     They  had  never  heard  the  name  of  Jesus. 


LUKUSA,   LATER   CALLED   "DICK,"   THE  "FIRST   CONVERT   IN   THE 

KASAI  REGION,  AND  THE  FIRST  MEMBER  OF  THE  LUEBO 

PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH,  RECEIVED  APRIL,  1895. 

But  God's  word  was  not  to  return  unto  Him  void,  and 
in  1895  a  young  boy  about  twelve  years  old,  whom  we 
called  "Dick,"  professed  his  faith  in  Christ.  Then  in 
quick   succession  followed   six  other  boys.     There  was 


HIS    KINGDOM    COMING    IN   CON  JO 


151 


joy  in  the  presence  of  the  angels,  and  who  rejoiced  more 
than  the  sainted  Mr.  Lapsley? 

The  Present  View. — There  are  51  missionaries  of 
Jesus,  zealous  and  optimistic  in  the  great  work  for  Jesus; 
457  native  workers,  15,674  church  members,  275  schools, 
15,934  students,  3  theological  schools,  160  ministers  in 
training,  338  Sunday-schools,  32,775  scholars,  and  938 
native^teachers. 


CHILDREN  OF  THE"  PANTOPS  HOME,  LUEBO. 


The  harvest  of  precious  souls  this  year  was  2,672, 
and  20,000  gather  at  6  o'clock  every  morning  for  prayer. 

Wherever  there  is  a  mission  station  you  can  ask  the 
Christians  to  repeat  for  you  not  only  a  verse,  but  whole 
passages  of  Scripture  perfectly.  The  Lord's  Prayer, 
the  ten  commandments  and  the  shorter  catechism  they 
know  by  heart.  They  can  ask  and  answer  every  ques- 
tion of  the  catechism  without  a  single  mistake.     Dozens 


152  PRESBYTERIAN    PIONEERS    IN    CONGO 

of  hymns  they  know  and  sing  without  the  book.  There 
is  scarcely  a  Christian  family  without  the  prayer  altar. 
They  also  have  in  their  homes,  or  in  the  bush,  a  hiding 
place  for  secret  prayer.  Every  convert  is  a  missionary 
to  the  unsaved.  They  are  liberal  and  count  it  a  pleasure 
to  give  a  tenth  part  to  Jesus.  The  Sabbath  is  beauti- 
fully observed,  no  fishing,  hunting  or  traveling.  The 
witch  doctor's  business  is  fast  passing  away,  the  people 
come  to  the  missionaries  for  treatment. 

Think  of  the  Pantops  home  with  more  than  a  hundred 
girls  in  training  for  Christian  work.  Girls  are  trained 
in  domestic  science  and  sewing.  Campfire  Girls  and 
Boy  Scouts  are  supporting  an  evangelist.  Native  Chris- 
tians are  running  the  big  cylinder  press,  turning  out 
hundreds  of  school  books,  hymn  books,  catechisms  and 
the  Bible.  The  books  are  also  bound  by  them  and  used 
by  thousands  who  were  once  heathen. 

The  native  evangelists  throughout  the  country  preach 
twice  a  day,  and  a  new  sermon  every  time.  When  the 
big  bells  at  the  Central  Mission  stations  ring  out  their 
inviting  peals  you  can  see  hundreds  of  natives  with  their 
wives  and  children,  hymn  book  and  Bible  under  their 
arms,  wending  their  way  to  the  house  of  God.  They  sit 
quiet  without  even  a  whisper  and  are  undivided  in  their 
attention.  They  are  there  on  the  King's  business. 
The  hymn  is  announced  by  the  missionary  and  quickly 
they  turn  to  the  number  and  join  heartily  in  the  singing. 
The  head  is  bowed  in  solemn  and  devout  prayer.  The 
chapter  is  mentioned  and  the  people  (sometimes  thou- 
sands) turn  to  the  book  and  chapter  and  read  alter- 
nately. 

No  tongue  can  tell  the  great  work  that  God  has 
wrought  through  the  Southern  Presbyterian  Church  for 


HIS    KINGDOM    COMING    IN    CONGO  153 

these    people,    who    only    yesterday    were    in    darkness  ^^ 
and  death. 

A  Prospective  View.— There  are  in  this  region, 
and  they  are  yours,  1,810,000  souls.  Thousands  have 
never  heard  a  word;  thousands  have  never  heard  of  a 
missionary;  thousands  have  never  seen  a  single  ray  and 
are  begging  for  the  full  light  of  the  gospel. 

What  a  vast  harvest  field!  By  the  sign  of  the  cross 
and  in  His  name  we  shall  conquer. 


INDEX 


155 


Snbex 


Page 

African  Fever 24,  SO 

American    Baptist    Union 

Mission 29,  33 

Answer  to  Prayer 101 

Ants,  Black  Driver 68 

Red 69 

White 69 

Babies  Born  White 70 

Stuffing 125 

Bakete  People 75 

Bakuba  Cleanliness 119 

Honesty 120 

Superstitions 120 

Courting 123 

Marriages 123 

Good  Farmers. .    .  97 

Graves 136 

Have  No  Idols.    .  113 

Industries 132 

Origin  Of 114 

People 90 

Serenade 116 

Banana 21 

Bananas 21,  22 

Banqua's  Spirit 37 

Bateke  People 34 

Black  Driver  Ants 68 

Black  Monkeys 58 

Boa   Constrictor,    25   feet 

long 31 

Boma 22 

Bruce,  Mrs.  Ann 15 

Burying  the  Living 129,  131 


Page 

Buying  Houses 66 

Canoe,  Purchasing  a 43 

Carriers,  Securing 42 

Christmas     in     Central 

Africa,  1891 43 

City  of  10,000  Inhabitants  114 
Civilization     Among     the 

Bakuba 132 

Comforted  by  a  Familiar 

Language 62 

"Coney  Island" 75 

Cooking,  Quaint 74 

"Crocks"  in  the  N'Kissy..  32 

Dancing  People 88 

Day  School 63 

Dense  Population 142 

Dogs  that  Do  Not  Bark .  .  98 

Drum  Telegraphy 142 

Dwarfs 140 

Eating  Bananas 21,  22 

Elephant  Hunting 93 

E.xchanging  Presents 93 

Feuds 71 

Fever,  African 24,  80 

First  Congo  Service 30 

Day    School    in    the 

Kasai  Valley 63 

Hunt 24 

Sabbath  School 63 

Sermon  in  the  Kasai.  44 

Spiritual  Interest ...  64 

Flies  Rarely  Seen 93 

Frissell,  Dr.  H.  B 17 


156 


INDEX 


Page 

Galvanized  Iron  Church.  .  29 

General  Armstrong 17 

Great  Storm 56 

Town 105 

Greetings  from  Lukenga.  .  105 

Grenfell,  Rev.  Geo 34 

Guinea  Fowl 97 

Guinness,  Dr.  Grattan  and 

Family 20 

Hampton  Institute 16,  17 

Hell's  Cauldron 25 

Henkel,  Dr.  S.  H 16 

Homesickness 62 

Hostile  Town 45 

Houston,  Dr.  M.  H 18 

Hunting  Hippopotami ....  34 

Ibanche 143 

Images  Made  from  Trees  .  69 

Indian  Corn 91 

Interview  with  Lukenga  .  .  110 

Iron  and  Copper 96 

"Jiggers" 31,  98 

Kasai  River 52 

Kwango  Expedition 42 

Lapsley  as  a  Doctor 67 

Lapsley's  Bible 126 

Death 84 

Influence 87 

Makes  a  Journey  79 

Praying 64 

Return    to    the 

Coast 82 

Watch 77 

Lapsley,  Rev.  S.  N 18 

JudgeJas.  W...  .  19 

Mrs.  Jas.  W 19 

Large  Families 124 

Laundering    Clothes    and 

Its  Effect 129 


Lawyers  Without  Laws ...  72 

Leap  Frog 126 

Learning  the  Language.  .  .  63 
Letter    to    Mrs.    Jas.    W. 

Lapsley 85 

Lions  on  the  Bank 50 

Live  Idols 90 

Liverpool 20 

London 20 

Loneliness 94 

Looking  to  the  Future. ...  144 

Lowry,  Mrs.  Annie  M. .  .  .  16 

Luebo  Menu 74 

Rapids 60 

Lukenga's  Annual  Feast.  .  133 

Capital 103 

Greetings  from.  105 

Living  Room  .  .  Ill 

Lullaby 108 

Palace 109 

Provisions 132 

Reluctant  Per- 
mission t  o 
Return    to 

Luebo 138 

S  h  e  p  p  a  r  ds 

Message  to.  .  99 

Town 105 

Lulua  River 60 

Trail 81 

McCutchan,  Rev.  Frank.  .  17 

Martyrs,.  Mounds  of 25 

Matadi 22 

Maxamalinge,  Prince 115 

Message  to  King  Lukenga  99 
Misunderstanding      C  o  r- 

rected 107 

Monkey,  Black 58 

Mosquitoes 59 


INDEX 


157 


Page 
Mounds    of    Triumphant 

Martyrs 25 

Mountain  Climbing 27 

Moving   a    Town    Among 

the  Bakete 147 

Mrs.     Jas.     W.     Lapsley, 

Letter  from  Sheppard .  .  85 

Native  Market 32 

N'Goma 90,91 

"Ntomanjehi" 65 

Our  Congo  Mission,  1916  151 

Poisonous  Cup 92,  121 

Prayer,  Answer  to 101 

Praying  for  Help 100 

Preaching  in  the  Market 

Places 132 

Preparation  for  Death. ...  134 

Purchasing  a  Canoe 43 

Quaint  Cooking 74 

Queen  N'Gankabe's  Wel- 
come   44 

Rain  Making. 73 

Rainy  and  Dry  Seasons ..  .  71 

Rapids  of  Mwamba 48 

Red  Ants 69 

Red  Pepper  Test 121 

Rescue  of  Rev.  Mr.  Rogers  40 
Results  of  26  Years'  Mis- 
sionary   Effort    in    the 

Congo 151 

Rotterdam 20 

Royal  Reception 105 

Sabbath  School 63 

Sailing  for  England 19 

Scorpions  and  Spiders. ...  30 

Seasons,  Rainy  and  Dry. .  71 

Securing  Carriers 42 

Sheppard,  Wm.  H.,  Early 

Life 15 


Page 
Sheppard,  Wm.    H.,   Call 
to    Missionary 

Service 16 

At        Warm 

Springs,  Va. .  16 
At       Hampton 

Institute.  .  .  .  16,  17 

At  Tuscaloosa..  18 

In  Montgomery  18 

In  Atlanta 18 

Appointment .  .  18 
Letter  to  Mrs. 
Jas.  W.  Laps- 
ley  85 

Snake  Charmer 116 

Stanley  Pool 33 

Stanley's  Handkerchief. .  .  34 

Stanley's  Wagon  Wheels.  .  28 

Stealing  My  Purse 93 

Steamer  "Florida" 51 

Steamship  "Henry  Reed".  43 

Strange  Collection  Baskets  30 

Strong  Current 59 

Stuffing  the  Baby 125 

Superstitions 82,  120 

Tainted  Money 130 

Taught  to  Fight 127 

Telling  the  Old,  Old  Story  97 

Touching  Farewell 138 

Through  the  Cataracts  ...  39 

Tramping  to  Stanley  Pool.  26 

Traveling  Minstrel 77,  146 

Treating  the  Sick 125 

Tuscaloosa  Institute 18 

Welcome  Back  to  Luebo.  .  148 

White  Ants 69 

Wissman  Falls 73 

Witch  Houses 144 

Whyte,  Mr.  Robert 20 


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